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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Been reloading for the last 8 years or so and have generally been pleased with the results. Recently I have acquired a new Marlin guide gun in 45-70 cal.
Been trying out a number of loads again with pretty reasonable accuracy. Shooting Hornady 300g HP`s over H4198 51g Starline brass and CCI200 primers was giving good results.
The rifle was fitted with a scope , probably too much scope for it really (X15 mag max) but whatever it was good for working up that sweet load all are looking for....?
That was six months ago. However over the last few months the accuracy slowly began to deteriorate. Initially not by much , then a few flyers until the other day 'shotgun' pattern. Checking the rifle all seemed OK
I think keeping your targets for reference is a good idea when you are developing loads and now I am convinced. The progression of the problem was clearly evident.

A friend and I tested it on the range and the accuracy issues continued using a range of ammo. That evening I had another look at the rifle and checked the scope mounts. The rifle barrel had been regularly cleaned. All seemed OK. I began to consider that maybe the scope was failing in some way.

That same evening I was inspecting the barrel using a light when I noticed light shining through a tiny gap between the picatinny rail and the action towards the butt end of the rifle. Too my horror the rear of the scope could flex up and down !

I removed the scope and found the rail to be loose due to both central locking screws (hidden from view beneath the scope) also being loose.

I fixed the problem with the addition of some locktight glue. However I noticed that when the ghost sight is removed (to enable scope mounting) the rear end of the rail is a little prone to flexing up and down slightly - Finding an additional locking screw sorted this problem but beware if the screw is too long it blocks the bolt when loading the rifle.
Marlin please give us a screw that fixes this problem when we remove the ghost sight!
Anyway there is the lesson - always check your gun mounts fully like I always tell others...!
:hmmmm:
 

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In my younger days, I bought and then parted with a rifle that I am sure WAS accurate, but I couldn't get it to shoot worth a dern. I have since concluded that the problem was a crappy scope/bad/lose mount or some such. Was an early cheap Simmons, iirc...

Pretty sure the rifle was fine, and the problem was in the scope/mount. Sure wish I had that gun back. It was an Interarms Mini Mauser in 22-250! But I did learn something from it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yup absolutely
Think this issue with the guide gun is worth noting though
Cheers jon
 
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my recent 1895 purchase came with a scope base attached to it and when I went to remove it all the screws were just tight enough to keep the base from wiggling. I wonder if the reason the guy sold the gun was because it suddenly wasn't accurate?:hmmmm:
 

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Personally I don't beleive in putting locktite on my scope screws because I have had bad experiences on pre owned guns that were locktied. I just check my bases and scope screws for tightness from time to time and have never had one that shot loose but everyone to his own. I bought a Sako Deluxe 375 H&H the other day with a 1x5 leupold on it and someone had locktited the caps on the scope. I got one of them freed up but I had three different people try to twist off the other cap to no avail. i sold the gun before I left the gun show to a nice older man and forgot to tell him about the cap and I bet he is cussing me right now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi
I would use lock tight on rails etc
Would not advocate use on scope mounts
However the problem remains where important screws are hidden from view...
 

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OP, have you shot it since fixing the problem with the rail? Just wondering if it's shooting straight again?
 

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I went through a box and a half of .300 win mag one time before I realized my scope was sliding around. In my defense, it was my first scoped rifle but I felt pretty dumb after I figured it out.
 

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Just out of curiosity, is your rail plastic or metal? I found that with my big bores I can't use plastic anything! Of course, that means that the metal is a bit harsh on my receiver top!
 

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If you are sure you will always use a scope on the rifle here is another trick I use:
I mix up some acraglas and put it on the bottom of the scope mount then tighten the mounting screws. Wipe off the excess arcaglas and allow everything to harden for a couple of days. Your scope mount will never move or become loose.
 

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Been hunting with a Browning BAR in 270 over 30 years and it has happened twice during that time. First time the front base mount screw broke and was protruding into the chamber and would hang up the bolt. I had no loss in accuracy that time. The second time I started spraying bullets around about a 6-8 inch circle at 50 yards, decided it was the scope and when I went to replace it I found the front and second base screws loose. In neither case did the scope seem to move but the 2 loose screws in the second case allowed for just enough movement to throw it off. Will probably use locktite on it should it happen again.

Mop
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
yeah
Just a few shots but looks fixed so far..
 

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Loctite is not a problem to remove, even the "red" type.

Just heat up a piece of metal about the size of the screw head and hold it to the screw until the heat transfers.

This will allow the Loctite to soften and the screws will come right out.

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yup
Looks OK after a few shots
Plan to check again tomorrow
Cheers Jon
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Wow
Serious stuff - I have no experience with this substance
Thanks for the idea
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
All metal rail on the marlin guide gun
 

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LocTite is Great Stuff but one must pick the correct Loctite for each type of application. I tend to use the Blue and on scope split ring screws I use a violet color LocTite as it is designed for Small Screws. LocTite makes many fine products that work well for there designed purpose but it is up to the end user to pick the Correct LocTite product for the application intended.
 
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