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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As I have said before in other posts, I'm really not a scope guy. I did decide to get one, though, a 3-9x40, and I had it put on my 336W. Here are some pics of it, and my question is, does this look like it's mounted correctly?

001.JPG 002.JPG 003.JPG 004.JPG 005.JPG

The reason I ask is that if I have the scope set on 3 or 4 power, the entire reticle is visible, and is bright and clear. If I dial it up to 8 or 9, though, I can't seem to get my eye in a spot where I can see very much of the field of view. Most of it is just blacked out, and it seems as though it would be pretty much useless to shoot at anything with it like this.

Does my scope need to be mounted farther forward? It looks as though that would entail removing the scope mount and reversing it on the receiver. As currently mounted, the scope cannot go any farther forward. The turrets are up against the front set of rings.
 

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Yeah--rx7dryver has this nailed. The scope mount is on backwards--so you will have to readjust the positioning of your scope. Due to my bad eyes (poor distance vision), I need my scope pushed forward--sometimes up against the scope ring depending on the scope model. You will have to undergo the trial and error method to see where best to position the scope for your eyes.
 
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The base is backwards. You need to put turn it around. One other thing, try to keep your rings slightly away from the adjustment turret housing.
 

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I can't tell exactly how the rings mount to the scope base here and no expert, but instead of looking at moving the scope alone within the rings (which you can't anymore), will the scope and rings move together further forward on that particular base... if that is what is needed? It looks like there is about a half inch(?) or so of room there up front? It's all personal choice, but I'm more a fan of fixed or lower powered variables on a lever gun if going with a scope myself, along the lines of a 4x or 1.5-5x20 variable..or similar. Even with my longer range bolt guns that have 3x9's I rarely use the higher power when hunting, and usually just when sighting/tuning in at the range; but that's just me. Also, depending on the scope, brand, quality, etc., issues similar to what you describe can be more touchy and/or prevalent than on others as you increase the power on them from what I've seen. Field of view, varying eye relief, clarity/size of cross-hairs, light, etc.
Good luck to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I can't tell exactly how the rings mount to the scope base here and no expert, but instead of looking at moving the scope alone within the rings (which you can't anymore), will the scope and rings move together further forward on that particular base... if that is what is needed? It looks like there is about a half inch(?) or so of room there up front? It's all personal choice, but I'm more a fan of fixed or lower powered variables on a lever gun if going with a scope myself, along the lines of a 4x or 1.5-5x20 variable..or similar. Even with my longer range bolt guns that have 3x9's I rarely use the higher power when hunting, and usually just when sighting/tuning in at the range; but that's just me. Also, depending on the scope, brand, quality, etc., issues similar to what you describe can be more touchy and/or prevalent than on others as you increase the power on them from what I've seen. Field of view, varying eye relief, clarity/size of cross-hairs, light, etc.
Good luck to you.
The scope can only go in one spot on the base. So, I guess that as others have said, if it needs to be farther forward, the base needs to be reversed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
After looking closer at your pictures it looks like you might have your mount backwards.
I wondered about that. The gunsmith I wanted to have install the scope was not there, and they had someone else put it on. I'm going to reverse it and see how that works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay, I reversed the base, and that seems to have done the trick. It still is mounted with the rings right next to the turrets. I don't have a good vise available, and I'm reluctance to loosent the rings since the reticle is currently leveled correctly.

One additional question. How important is Loctiting the screws? There is none that I can see. Should I put some on them? If so, can someone post a picture of the container for the right strength of Loctite?
 

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Red loctite will do the job nicely. Just a half drop each screw.

If you're OK with the current base I am as well, but if you feel more secure with the rather large scope you may want to consider a two piece base system with an elongated extension on the front section. Weaver makes these as well.
Ss
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Red loctite will do the job nicely. Just a half drop each screw.

If you're OK with the current base I am as well, but if you feel more secure with the rather large scope you may want to consider a two piece base system with an elongated extension on the front section. Weaver makes these as well.
Ss
Thanks, Sidespin. If I decide I like using a scope, I will likely get a 2-7x for the 336, and either sell this one, or put it on a different rifle. Meanwhile, the Buckmasters is not at all heavy. A bit large looking, yes, but still pretty lightweight.
 

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So is there a right or wrong to mounting the base, and if so why? Right now my base is installed so it does not hang off the front of the receiver, both of the scopes I have bore sighted on it (haven't had time to shoot it) mounted fine and the sight picture is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So is there a right or wrong to mounting the base, and if so why? Right now my base is installed so it does not hang off the front of the receiver, both of the scopes I have bore sighted on it (haven't had time to shoot it) mounted fine and the sight picture is fine.
I am really a newbie on scopes. As for how to mount that type of base, though, I looked at a bunch of images of Marlins with scopes, and found them to be attached both ways. I suspect there's no right or wrong way, rather, it's designed to be used either way.
 

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Most modern scope bases designed for Marlin lever actions will fit both the shorter receiver on 1894 models and the longer 1895/336/444 receivers. Proper mounting dictates that the end of the base with only two holes goes to the rear. The end of the base with four holes goes to the front of the receiver.

Weaver 63B.jpg
 
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