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Savage 24F 22mag/20 gauge Wood

2K views 12 replies 10 participants last post by  .35Rem.owner.GER 
#1 ·
Always wanted a Savage model 24. Found this one recently for a good deal. Metal is in great shape but wood has some scratches and I really can't stand the finish on the wood. I'm guessing it's birch, not really sure. Anyway, what would be your opinion on how to refinish the wood? I want a more natural wood look than the greenish/brownish look it currently has.
 

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#2 ·
I have this same gun, bought it a year or so back. These guns, along with most brands of budget priced guns, used birch wood with a spray on finish that is a combination stain/polyurethane. I personally call it the mud finish. That's about how good it looks. The birch under it will look far better if you completely strip it bare, stain it with a stain color of your choice, then give it an oil finish as you would any other stock. I have done this many times on birch and I'm always amazed at what was hidden under all that mud.

Start by removing it from the gun, remove the buttplate, scuff the old finish with steel wool then use a paint stripper. I use citri-strip myself. A nice thick coat, let it sit overnight, then wipe off dried up crud and if needed, steel wool again and another coat. Rarely need more than that. If there is any checkering, use a toothbrush on it. Next is wash it off in hot water, dry with paper towels then let dry overnight.

Next is wood prep. If you have dings you can raise them with steam. If you have oil soaked areas you will need to use acetone to get the oil out. That process can take days or more because after washing with acetone and letting it dry, you should let it sit and see if more oil will rise to the surface. I don't sand much unless really needed with the exception of 400 before the final 0000 steel wool. If you do sand the buttstock, put the buttplate back on first so it will be even with the wood. Stay away from the metal contact area's as much as possible so you don't end with with a "proud" metal fit. Once I'm happy with it's condition, I'll rub it down gently with 400 or finer grit paper, followed by buffing it with 0000 steel wool. Next is a final wash with a wet acetone rag. Apply stain as desired, let dry, rub again with 0000 wool and if desired, more stain. Repeat as needed to get color where you want it. Bare birch when oiled is very light, so that's also an option if desired.

For final finish, you have numerous options and discussion on that usually carries on as much as the Ford vs Chevy vs Mopar debate. Depending on the gun, I use either BLO, raw linseed, Tung oil or raw Tung oil, Tru Oil or wood food oil. The key is patience. A nice hand rubbed oil finish doesn't happen overnight. It can take weeks of applying and drying and repeat, sometimes buffing lightly with 0000 wool and repeat etc. The biggest mistake most make is gobbing it on to thick thinking it will get done quicker. Rub in a thin coat, not thick. Sometimes I will dilute BLO or tung oil with mineral spirits, making it thinner to soak in better for th first few coats. Plan on it taking some time, be patient and you will eventually get it to where you want it. Bear in mind what type of gun you are working on. A utility grade gun can be made to look great with the right finish, but if you try to make your wood look like something on a custom grade high gloss Weatherby rifle then it will look as odd as no finish. Match your wood finish to the grade of the metal.
 
#7 ·
I have this same gun, bought it a year or so back. These guns, along with most brands of budget priced guns, used birch wood with a spray on finish that is a combination stain/polyurethane. I personally call it the mud finish. That's about how good it looks. The birch under it will look far better if you completely strip it bare, stain it with a stain color of your choice, then give it an oil finish as you would any other stock. I have done this many times on birch and I'm always amazed at what was hidden under all that mud.

Start by removing it from the gun, remove the buttplate, scuff the old finish with steel wool then use a paint stripper. I use citri-strip myself. A nice thick coat, let it sit overnight, then wipe off dried up crud and if needed, steel wool again and another coat. Rarely need more than that. If there is any checkering, use a toothbrush on it. Next is wash it off in hot water, dry with paper towels then let dry overnight.

Next is wood prep. If you have dings you can raise them with steam. If you have oil soaked areas you will need to use acetone to get the oil out. That process can take days or more because after washing with acetone and letting it dry, you should let it sit and see if more oil will rise to the surface. I don't sand much unless really needed with the exception of 400 before the final 0000 steel wool. If you do sand the buttstock, put the buttplate back on first so it will be even with the wood. Stay away from the metal contact area's as much as possible so you don't end with with a "proud" metal fit. Once I'm happy with it's condition, I'll rub it down gently with 400 or finer grit paper, followed by buffing it with 0000 steel wool. Next is a final wash with a wet acetone rag. Apply stain as desired, let dry, rub again with 0000 wool and if desired, more stain. Repeat as needed to get color where you want it. Bare birch when oiled is very light, so that's also an option if desired.

For final finish, you have numerous options and discussion on that usually carries on as much as the Ford vs Chevy vs Mopar debate. Depending on the gun, I use either BLO, raw linseed, Tung oil or raw Tung oil, Tru Oil or wood food oil. The key is patience. A nice hand rubbed oil finish doesn't happen overnight. It can take weeks of applying and drying and repeat, sometimes buffing lightly with 0000 wool and repeat etc. The biggest mistake most make is gobbing it on to thick thinking it will get done quicker. Rub in a thin coat, not thick. Sometimes I will dilute BLO or tung oil with mineral spirits, making it thinner to soak in better for th first few coats. Plan on it taking some time, be patient and you will eventually get it to where you want it. Bear in mind what type of gun you are working on. A utility grade gun can be made to look great with the right finish, but if you try to make your wood look like something on a custom grade high gloss Weatherby rifle then it will look as odd as no finish. Match your wood finish to the grade of the metal.

Thanks for the detailed reply. I've always worked on my guns, but never had to do much with the wood. I will post after pictures once I get it completed
 
#8 ·
I have refinished stocks stripping, raising grain and sanding as described. Minwax "Special Walnut" renders a nice color on birch, similar to the Finnish milsurps. For stock finish I use Fair trimmers military stock oil from Brownells, blended with equal parts of a good marine spar varnish, first coat generously brushed on, dry 24 hours, then cut down with washed burlap rag moistened with the oil-varnish mixture, repeating one rubbed coat daily until you get the look you want. After about 6 coats there is no open grain and it will look like a new arsenal finish.
 
#9 ·
I have had several mod 24's could never find one, that shot good with both barrels, using the iron sites.
I ended up buying the new version mod.42 ,22 mag over 410. Both barrels are dead on straight , set the sites for the rifle say 30yds, put a 410 slug in, and it's right on.
Could never do that with any of 4 different mod 24, the barrels were cross-eyed.
Good luck.
 
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#10 ·
i
Wood Floor Flooring Hardwood Wood stain

am one of the few lucky owners of a 1956 Savage Model 24 with a .22/.410 barrel.

I received the gun as a gift from a customer who wanted to trade in his old guns, and my boss no longer wanted to bid on it.

When I later showed it to a gunsmith friend, he took it to Heym for three days. There, the trigger, the chamber and the barrels were reworked.

Now both barrels hold at 60 yard the hit area of about 2.5 inches.
 
#11 ·
I've owned a couple of .22/.410, .222/20ga, .22WRM/20, and a couple .22RF/20g. I still have the .22RF/20ga and will not part with this most useful combination like I have foolishly done with the rest of the "tribe"! However, the .22WRM/20 was the one I most regretted letting it get away because it was the most accurate .22Mag I ever owned; awful trigger though! All the rest have been accurate with the exception being the .222/20ga (?). The model 24 is the closest firearm to the European's "Cape Gun"; and is especially useful for hunting in states where one can legally hunt upland and waterfowl while carrying a gun capable of being used on mammals. I have seen model 24's in 30-30/20ga and .357Mag/20ga, but the price was beyond what I was willing to pay at the time. I do own a Drilling that I've used extensively out-of-state and really appreciate its ability to reach out beyond shotgun range when the opportunity presents itself. (BTW, I have never scoped a 24, but the one shown by "ER" is quite the show piece!)
 
#13 ·
Just a few days ago I was able to take a good shot on a roe deer with my model 24. It was about 9pm and I was stalking for racoon and foxes, when I came across an field which I knew that there's a buck in this area, so I went for a small peek around the treeline, and stand right in front of this young fellow.

Before I sneaked around the corner, I choose the Slugbarrel and made ready for a fast shot, if needed, so I stalked the last 5m around the Trees with cooked hammer and stock in the shoulder. We both saw each other I the same moment, and when I saw his small antlers I knew this one will be perfect to take.

So I aimed for the Shoulder (pretty common shot in Europe) and pull the trigger.
The .410 slug hits a rip which flew through the belly, but he never got a chance. He went down like nothing.
It was my first deer with Slug so it's very special for me.
Plant Grass Fawn Terrestrial animal Wood
 
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