Marlin Firearms Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,516 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
How involved is the process of removing the IL from the new DA wheelguns? Have you done it?

I don't want to discuss the liability aspects of this, just the mechanics please.

Maybe the way to get around the liability is to explain to me "what not to do" kinda like in the movie "1941" when they were trying to make that anti-aircraft gun work so they could shoot at the Jap submarine. ;D

There's a used 44spl M21 "Thunder Ranch" at the local Get Ted's money shop and I was just thinkin'..... ::)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
711 Posts
It's an easy job, good instructions on the S&W forum. I took the ILS out of my 686 and never looked back. Have the right screwdrivers and don't pry the side plate. Just remove the screws and give it a rap, it'll fall free.
Best of luck.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,026 Posts
If you go to this section's "Revolver Tricks" sticky, you'll get instructions of opening up the gun and removing the parts inside. Taking things apart is easy, getting them all back in properly is the dicey part. I've never taken my IL out, but from looking at it, it doesn't appear too complicated. One of the guys on the S&W forum sells a gizmo he calls "The Plug" which covers the hole from the inside.

For more on the lock itself, go here...........they tell you how to take it out (about 70% down the page).

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/94072-faqs.html

Information for a detail strip is about halfway down the page, but with few photos. Bookmarking this page is a good idea if you're a tinkerer, or have questions about how S&W revolvers work and fit together! 8)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,516 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I definately fit into the "tinkerer" category. I've had older S&W's apart before, so the assembly looks very familiar.

I'd heard of guys using a plug to cover the hole, but didn't know if it was to simply cover the intact-IL for cosmetic purposes or to fill the void left when removing the IL. I now understand it is for the latter purpose. 8)

Another consideration I had is if the IL can be un-removed later on. It looks like the answer is yes according to that linked page.

Exactly what I was asking for...... thanks guys! :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,479 Posts
Tedak said:
at the local Get Ted's money shop and I was just thinkin'..... ::)
.... ;D ;D ;D ;D That's funny, I don't care who you are...

Funny, I was at the local Get Some of Dennis' Money Some of the Time Shop yesterday, but, hold on to your wallet! ...I'll be going to the Get All of Dennis Carry-Around Money Show in Frisco tomorrow! Oh, Dear!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,327 Posts
First off...I don't care for the lock...I think it's an abomination. I wish S&W would abandon it entirely and I've passed up some nice Smiths simply because I could get that model "pre-lock" with a little searching. But there have been very, very few documented cases of the lock "failing" and tying up the gun. In all those instances I'm aware of, it's been the ultra lightweight Scandium magnum revolvers, like the 329PD, where this has occured, when the heavy recoil forces overcome the spring pressure on the lock mechanism.

Removing the lock components is a poor option as that leaves the open hole on the left side of the frame and the gap on the top of the frame along side the hammer where the "flag" resides. The "Plug" is one solution, but the components can be left in the frame and disabled by simply filing off the nub that engages the recesses in the hammer.

Don't be concerned with being able to "un-remove" the IL at a future date, Ted. That would only be a concern if you were to ever sell it. Since we're talking about a 4" N-frame in .44 Special, even the notion of parting with it in the future sounds rather absurd. ;)

Roe
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,516 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Barenjager said:
Removing the lock components is a poor option as that leaves the open hole on the left side of the frame and the gap on the top of the frame along side the hammer where the "flag" resides. The "Plug" is one solution, but the components can be left in the frame and disabled by simply filing off the nub that engages the recesses in the hammer.
I was wondering if there was more to this than just a hole to plug up on the side of the frame. Thanks for that bit of info about the hammer-to-frame gap and the part about the nub.

By the time I decide that I really want that M21-TR, it'll likely be gone. It's okay, as I'm not completely sold on it yet due to:
1) the IL that I'll probably want to disable
2) even though it's a good price, ($600) it's still more than I really want to spend right now
3) I don't like the gold Thunder Ranch logo on the right side of the frame
4) I have no niche for it to fill at this point (give me five minutes though, and I'll probably be able to rule out #4 ;) ;D)


Three strikes against it at the moment (still including #4) means it probably won't follow me home..... but then, stranger things have happened. ::) This IL info is good to know for my future encounters with any IL-DAs that don't have any other strikes against them. ;)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,026 Posts
That's a pretty good price, Ted. I'm just saying............... ;)

Niches? You don't need no stinking niches!
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top