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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have freed up a few dollars that are burning a hole in my pocket. I have been thinking I want a 357 revolver. I saw one today in the $550. range that seemed to be in good condition. SS and not showing any outside wear. Anyone have any input on this gun? It is a 65-3 S&W.
 

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I am a big fan of the Smith & Wesson Revolvers. While I have never owned a 65-3 I have and do own a few Smiths and must say have never been let down by any of the ones I have owned. My favorite Smith is my SS 686's in 6' barrels. Picture shown. I also have a model 36 chief I bought in 1971 for a off duty gun when I was on the Police Dept. I still have the gun and it still shoots great as does all of my Smith & Wesson guns.

Buy the Smith you can't go wrong and won't lose money. It is an investment.

Enjoy the Journey
444GS2

Pair of 686's -- Model 36 --- Smith model 5906 --- Smith & Wesson M&P in 40 cal. These are a few of my favorites.
Gun Firearm Trigger Revolver Gun barrel
Gun Firearm Trigger Revolver Shotgun
Firearm Gun Revolver Trigger Starting pistol
Firearm Gun Trigger Gun accessory Gun barrel
Gun Firearm Trigger Airsoft gun Starting pistol
 

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I have plenty of S&W revolvers...they're another weakness of mine. One of my favorites is a 3" model 65 Ladysmith. Before you bust on me for my girly revolver, consider this: it's a K frame, 6 shot 357 just like every other 65, but this one has a 3" barrel, a full lug and a really nice satin stainless finish. It ain't no regular 65. That said, I previously had a regular 3" 65 and liked that a lot too. The 3" ones might be the most useful revolver Smith made. I'm not sold on the 4" ones, but that's personal preference.
 

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great utility gun, they are good shooters
I would really like to ad a 3" round butt 65 to my safe
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This one is a 4". The gun looks good and the shop I am dealing with has good prices and are straight or at least this guy is. As he was showing it to me he said something about the hammer sticking some and it just needed cleaning. I could be wrong on what he said but is that common and how hard are they to take down and clean/oil? As you should be able to tell I really have no knowledge of double action revolvers.
 

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Buy it, you will enjoy it.
 

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My 65-2 is the Smith I've owned the longest, and it's the one that got me started into accumulating them.........along with some talented enablers. Mine's the once-again-popular 3" version, an old detective trade-in that could probably tell some great stories.



It's seen some rough usage, and I neutered it to DA-only as a concession to a worn sear, then bobbed the hammer. The action is smooth as glass, something most stainless K-frames have in common.

One warning.........if you're going to shoot a lot of full-power loads, you'd be better off with an L-frame, the S&W 686. K-frame 357's were made in an era when most folks practiced with mild 38's and rarely shot 357's. I'm NOT saying the K-frame 357 is fragile, but as with any machine, hard use accelerates wear, and you can blow a gun out-of-time with too much battering. You can do the same to an L-frame, but it takes a LOT more ammo! I've done it, but it wasn't easy.

I still shoot my 65, but out of respect I keep the ammo to 38+P pressures. That's what I carry on duty, and it's plenty, given a decent shot.

"Magnum Force" is rarely actually required!
 

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Before the department I retired from purchased S&W 686's we were issued Model 65's ... it had a very smooth action and was surprisingly accurate for a fixed sight revolver...had the opportunity to purchase the one issued to me but passed on it...wish now I had bought it. If I come across one (or a model 13) with a 3 inch barrel in good shape I'll grab in in a second.
 

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The 65's are made on the famous K frame, a wonderful size for a revolver!

Big enough to handle stout .357's, and light & compact enough for easy carry.

My only K-frame is the blued steel Model 19 .357 mag with a 2.5" barrel. I carried it on duty some, when I was working a plainclothes assignment. What I really like it for though is when I'm cruising around up in the hills, just as something to carry. It's small enough that it doesn't weigh me down, and big enough to handle any likely self-defense job I ask of it.

PJ is right, the K-frames thrive on a diet of mellow .38's with lead bullets for most of the shooting. Then upgrade to vicious .357's for serious use! Yee Haw! :biggrin:

Buy it. Use the heck out of it. Enjoy it. Good guns.

Regards, Guy
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks guys. I think I am going to buy it. I went by there and looked at it again today and I can get it for $400. plus tax so that's $429.00 total. The gun is 30 years old so it has a few scratches nothing big or any dings or wear marks. The hammer will stick a little and not reset so that you can shoot again until you touch it with a finger. He said it is just dirty and he is most likely correct from the little research I did. He said he would clean it and if that didn't work he would take it to his smith. If the gun works like it should when I go by there Saturday I told him I will take it. If not I will look at a Ruger or Taurus as I am not paying new S&W prices. I plan to shoot 38 in most all the time for cost and health of me and the gun. I could have just gone with a 38 but I like the idea of being able to set off a 357 round if I am in the mood. Any thoughts on the sticky hammer or anything else are welcome as this will be my first double action revolver.
 

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I would think that the gun would have to be ultra dirty to make the hammer stick. I would be sure to have the seller fix whatever is causing the problem to where it functions properly in both single and double action modes before laying out the cash. They're great guns, I have several K frame Smiths in 357mag and rarely shoot full magnum loads in any of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I would think that the gun would have to be ultra dirty to make the hammer stick. I would be sure to have the seller fix whatever is causing the problem to where it functions properly in both single and double action modes before laying out the cash. They're great guns, I have several K frame Smiths in 357mag and rarely shoot full magnum loads in any of them.
It is really close to resetting correctly and it may just need a good cleaning and to be worked a little. Then again it may be more and I am not going to pay $400. and then have to put more money in it. I have plenty of guns to use and can wait for another deal. I have bought a few guns from this person and he will be honest with me.
 

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The way you described it, it sounds like the trigger is sticking, not the hammer. If that's the case a good cleaning should take care of it. It the hammer is hanging up, that sounds like a job for someone who understands the intricacies of the S&W revolver.
 
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There's always a bit of "caveat emptor" when buying anything that is used...a while back I purchased a used Kimber 1911...after a couple of trips to the gunsmith it finally would shoot without going full auto, jamming or just doing nothing when I pulled the trigger...I'm proud to say that it works fine now but every time I pick it up I look at it and think ... "I could have bought two new Glocks for what I have in this POS"! Although this experience has left me a bit jaded when it come to purchasing 1911's, I still would prefer a used firearm that I can get a deal on over a new one...if I had to pick between a new S&W or Ruger; wouldn't mind having one of their GP-100 Match Champion .357's.
 
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