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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings fellow Marlin owners!

I recently bought an old gold trigger JM stamped Marlin 3030 that is in rough shape. It has some minor pitting/rusting on the exterior of barrel, many aftermarket screws and bolts, and what appears to be a once cracked buttstock. I would like to restore this rifle to its former glory and am looking for some input. I’m not looking to sell the rifle for a profit, just clean it up and make it last.

I have read on some gun forums and watched some YouTube videos of people using ceramic engine enamel paint to paint the guns barrel. Does anyone have any experience with this? I understand it would cover up the original bluing and I am ok with that. I would much prefer a flat black or possible semi-gloss finish anyway.
What I found so far mentions using a break cleaner to completely clean the exterior of the barrel and remove any grease. Give the rifle a good coating with the new Duplicolor ceramic paint, let it air dry and then throw it in a kitchen oven for an hour or so at 450 degrees to heat treat the new paint.

As for the stock I plan on going with a ramline synthetic. I think I can find repalcment screws/bolts at Brownells here.


Any thoughts on the process or personal experience with doing it yourself or any restoration tips in general would be greatly appreciated.

IMG_5421.jpg IMG_5420.jpg IMG_5417.jpg IMG_5416.jpg
 

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I like it when people refurbish an old gun, some would say the cost may be high, they dont understand , its just nice to save one that would be lost , there not making more jms. good luck please show us some after pics, if you want wood for the stock gunville.com has some very nice ones .
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the gunville.com link, it's not something I stumbled across in my searching yet. I'm not against going wood, all I found in my limited searching so far was the ramline synthetic.
 

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There are a few stock maker that will sell you an 85% finished buttstock for under $100, and there are several take offs that show up here and on popular auction sites.
If you only want it to be a shooter, sounds like you have a decent plan. I'd like to see how it looks when you are done too.
 

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Before you actually decide to "Paint" the metal work, I suggest you pull all the wood and scrub the metal with Light oil and 0000 Steel Wool.........

You may be surprised how good the original bluing and metal surface really is under all the crud.

Re: Ramline Synthetic stocks.............I have yet to see one that fits properly, and in my opinion, they make the rifle TOO light, but some others my feel differently.

I think a better way to go, would be "Spray On Truck Bed Liner" (choose a color) on those stocks, or on used replacement wood.

I kinda' like those repair screws, though.........It gives the rifle a "Past" and a "Ghost" with stories to tell.......

Good Luck with your project.

Tom
 

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Before you actually decide to "Paint" the metal work, I suggest you pull all the wood and scrub the metal with Light oil and 0000 Steel Wool.........

You may be surprised how good the original bluing and metal surface really is under all the crud.

Re: Ramline Synthetic stocks.............I have yet to see one that fits properly, and in my opinion, they make the rifle TOO light, but some others my feel differently.

I think a better way to go, would be "Spray On Truck Bed Liner" (choose a color) on those stocks, or on used replacement wood.

I kinda' like those repair screws, though.........It gives the rifle a "Past" and a "Ghost" with stories to tell.......

Good Luck with your project.

Tom
how does the spray on truck bed lining hold up , this is the first ive heard of it , what brand etc, sounds good ?????
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the advice and replies. I will get some steel wool and see how it looks before I decide to paint anything.

Here is a link to a "spray on bed liner" look. Although I think it as just a textured spray paint I think the end result still looks sharp. I would sand a side of it down a bit, I can imagine your face might get tore up a bit getting proper cheek weld with that finish.
 

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Your rifle, your way is the first thought. I have several that were shall we say neglected, good to see it found a caring home. If I may- first thing I would do is completely strip and lay wood to the side. Remove bolt and coat inside and out including bolt with Kroil and lay it out in the sun and let it get good and hot a time or two. Then take all the way down including bolt, clean firing pin hole and confirm pins and spring and reassemble bolt polishing outside if desired. Then long strokes with Dexron III and #0000 is my go to, and the long strokes over parts will minimize light spots in finish. Clean wipe often to avoid pushing removed rust around. Study and clean internals, put together including stocks and go get the barrel warm and get to know it. Then I would remove and chemically strip both pieces of wood, fill holes, CAREFULLY SANDING STAYING AWAY FROM EDGES with buttplate on. Remove buttplate and paint with whatever floats your boat, can scuff, strip, re-paint till happy. Yes, it can still be hurt worse, just go slow and enjoy. Also understand you have a really good pit crew (see above) with some kind fellows to get you down the road.
 

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I'm not sure how you feel about blue steel and walnut, but I would try to refinish the stock and clean up the metal before I did anything radical. You may be surprised by how well it turns out. A wet towel and a steam iron will take out most of the dents and dings after the finish is stripped off. 0000 steel wool and gun oil will do wonders for the metal. Sounds like a fun project to me!
 

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Great project to do. One step at a time. No hurry. Enjoy!!
 

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What Gtek says........

Your rifle, your way is the first thought. I have several that were shall we say neglected, good to see it found a caring home. If I may- first thing I would do is completely strip and lay wood to the side. Remove bolt and coat inside and out including bolt with Kroil and lay it out in the sun and let it get good and hot a time or two. Then take all the way down including bolt, clean firing pin hole and confirm pins and spring and reassemble bolt polishing outside if desired. Then long strokes with Dexron III and #0000 is my go to, and the long strokes over parts will minimize light spots in finish. Clean wipe often to avoid pushing removed rust around. Study and clean internals, put together including stocks and go get the barrel warm and get to know it. Then I would remove and chemically strip both pieces of wood, fill holes, CAREFULLY SANDING STAYING AWAY FROM EDGES with buttplate on. Remove buttplate and paint with whatever floats your boat, can scuff, strip, re-paint till happy. Yes, it can still be hurt worse, just go slow and enjoy. Also understand you have a really good pit crew (see above) with some kind fellows to get you down the road.
 

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I'm not sure how you feel about blue steel and walnut, but I would try to refinish the stock and clean up the metal before I did anything radical. You may be surprised by how well it turns out. A wet towel and a steam iron will take out most of the dents and dings after the finish is stripped off. 0000 steel wool and gun oil will do wonders for the metal. Sounds like a fun project to me!
I need to clean up a 1971 336, too. What type of gun oil works best with your 0000 steel wool? Do you use the same stuff you use for cleaning, like CLP, Hoppes 9, Balistol?
 
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