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If you have not started construction yet, you may want to consider a modern efficient out door wood stove with heated water piped in under the floors of your building. Reloading ammunition with wood stoves inside is not dangerous if done properly, I have done that with no worries, but, just keeping the mess outside, not dragging in the wood, snow, dirt, bugs, and the mess from stove and chimney cleaning...all well worth it to me. Vapor barrier, 2 inches of dense weight supporting Styrofoam, and the pex-tubing installed on the styrofoam under your cement floor before you pour will give you the option if you ever want to go with floor heat and an outdoor wood stove. I heat my entire house (and water) that way, all the fire and mess is outside over 70 feet away. 5 or 6 cords of wood for an average winter for a full basement and an over 3,000 sq. ft. house.
Just food for thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Oletimer, I have considered that option. Problem is here in Michigan they have put a meter on them to measure the BTU output and TAX you on it. Plus, with an indoor one, I can keep the coffee hot and cook on it also with my cast iron pans.

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That is crazy, (BTU tax that is). I run a Heatmor unit with radiant in floors. It is nice. Still have a Yotul Oslo for sitting around. I love cutting firewood..."warms you twice"
Thank you for your service Marine!
 

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BTU tax? BTU enforcement agency? No knock BTU warrant? Uniformed BTU gestapo busting down your door?

How can the State of Michigan keep track of a woodstove? I don't see how they could do it. Please explain. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
BTU tax? BTU enforcement agency? No knock BTU warrant? Uniformed BTU gestapo busting down your door?

How can the State of Michigan keep track of a woodstove? I don't see how they could do it. Please explain. Thanks.
It has a meter, like your electrical for the electric company, and the read it once a month. Now, it you can find one at least 6 years old or older before they put the meters on, then you're good. The good used ones anywhere here they know this and want that pretty, shiny penny for it.

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It has a meter, like your electrical for the electric company, and the read it once a month. Now, it you can find one at least 6 years old or older before they put the meters on, then you're good. The good used ones anywhere here they know this and want that pretty, shiny penny for it.

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Don't you get tired of living in a Fascist State? Order the plate and weld it together. I've got an even $300 in my stove. 46" tall and 17" square. Country folk will survive. Once you've become a heat outlaw, a BTU Highwayman, there's no going back.

Bernie  16.jpg
 

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Before I moved my reloading operation into the house, I was set up in an old detached garage. The wood stove I used for heat in the winter was roughly 10 feet from the loading bench. Powder and primers were stored 15-20 feet from the heat source. Never had any issues.
 

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It has a meter, like your electrical for the electric company, and the read it once a month. Now, it you can find one at least 6 years old or older before they put the meters on, then you're good. The good used ones anywhere here they know this and want that pretty, shiny penny for it.

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As a neighbor south of you (just south of toledo) i have a guy working for me that drives to traverse city every weekend. Isn't there a bootleg copy we could send your way? Let me know via PM if we could help.
 

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Oletimer, I have considered that option. Problem is here in Michigan they have put a meter on them to measure the BTU output and TAX you on it. Plus, with an indoor one, I can keep the coffee hot and cook on it also with my cast iron pans.

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I was not aware of a meter that measured BTU output on an outdoor wood stoves. I live in Michigan and have not seen this, even on the newer models. Mine is only three years old. It has a tag on it that indicates the BTU's that the stove is capable of, but I can't imagine letting anyone coming on to my property trying to figure out how much heat I use , or trying to make me pay for anything. Never heard or seen anything like that, and lots of wood burners and dealers near here. Is this some kind of local thing, city or county?
I know what you are saying about indoor wood stoves, I have used them and it is a wonderful dry heat and great way to cook!
 

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I cant add anything to the excellent advice already given. I will mention a fire extinguisher might be a good idea.

I have one by the side of my reloading (Come gun repair and cleaning) bench. Actually, I have two, one by the bench and another set across the room incase I am driven back. But thats just me.

I also have a med kit with burns pads, hey, taught to be prepared....
 

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Discussion Starter #31
That's what I have been told. I've passed some that looks like a meter on it. I will look into this deeper.

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That's what I have been told. I've passed some that looks like a meter on it. I will look into this deeper.

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If you mean on the fire extiguisher, its a pressure guage. Ours have a red and green zone. No prizes for guessing which is which. When they slip into the red, buy another. I use old ones to put out garden fires the fun way. Surprise your friends.

By the way USMC, I was partnered with one of yours, an Lt at the time. Had to qualify rifle and pistol with him. We are still friends, he retired a Lt Col I belive. Good man.
 

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You can keep your powder and primers in a metal cabinet and mitigate the risk of static discharge by attaching a grounding wire or strap between it and a nearby ground point. I would recommend using the nearest wall outlet ground terminal, which should be tied to the ground point in your electrical panel, which should in turn be tied to a copper grounding rod outside. Be sure to remove any paint on the cabinet down to the metal where you attach the wire, and use a ring terminal of the appropriate size for the wire and screw/bolt.
As far as metal cabinets holding pressure and exploding if something catches fire inside, I’m sure drilling a half-dozen 1/2” holes near the top of the cabinet on the sides and rear will address this. There is no need to spend $400-$1200 for a bonafide industrial-grade metal flammables locker.
A wooden cabinet with flammables/explosives stored inside it seems like a far riskier prospect relative to fire hazards.
R/Griff
 

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That's what I have been told. I've passed some that looks like a meter on it. I will look into this deeper.

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So it really wasn't for certain, it was just maybe/kind of/ not for sure information thrown out there for all to read. This is how ugly rumours get started. I thought the whole thing sounded fishy, that's why I asked.

Now I repeat my question, and add some more. How can anyone track the BTU output? What if the stove is only filled half way? How could a BTU meter work reliably? What if a window was open and the skin of the stove was cooled but the fire was still hot? How does the State know you even have a stove with a meter? What if you built your own stove, or bought one in another State?
 
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