[308/338]

Well today I mounted my NIB. 336XLR-35R & NIB 2x7x33 Redfield. I boresighted it in with a Bushnell boresighter. The scope was 11" low and to the left 1" at 1/4 MOA this meant 44 clicks to bring it up to zero. This wasn't a problem the scope zero perfectly. But I thought why not use the shims Marlin furnished with the rifle and save the adjustments. There were three shims in the envelope and I installed all three. I put a mirror against the objective lens looked through the scope and put it back to factory zero. Okay now lets see where I am. I was now only 2" low and 1" left, 8 clicks up and 4 clicks to the right. I saved 9" of elevation.

Now before anyone start to wonder about the dreaded barrel droop this 336XLR-35R is a 9321XXX serial No. which means it a 2007 vintage. I have read many years ago that shims should be used to compensate for variation in machined surface if needed to save scope adjustments. there is four contact machined surfaces [1] receiver to [2] base to [3] rings to [4] scope.

At the range I'll see if it needs to come up more or take a shim or two off.

TO NY

 

[Mr Fixit]

At the risk of sounding foolish, What are these shims that Marlin is shipping out? Are they just with the Marlin by Remington Models or have they been included recently in the past couple years. I'd like to see a pic of one as I am at a ;loss. Thanks Mr fixit

 

[308/338]

The shims are clear plastic about 1" x 7/11" with two holes. You install them either in the front two holes or the rear. In my case I install them in the rear of the base to bring it up. It's a funny thing to me using the Bushnell boresighter when looking at the grid and making your adjustments it's opposite up for down and right for left, if I'm not confused enough.

I purchased a 308XLR S.N.#93xxxx. in the summer of 2008 and the shims were in the box with all else. I purchased my first 444S in 1972 and I didn't think I needed another one until the 308XLR come out it was the 30 cal I been looking for, for years.
So all I can say is I do know if these shims were offered before then.
Maybe someone here does know.

TO NY

 

[Lonnie]

I haven't had to use the shims when mounting a scope but I do own the 2x7 Redfield. I think you'll like the scope, mine is on a H&R 45-70 and I haven't had any problems with it. I also have the Redfield 3x9 on my .338MX and also like it. Overall I think they are good scopes for the money. Good luck with sighting in.

 

[Halwg]

The shims are clear plastic about 1" x 7/11" with two holes. You install them either in the front two holes or the rear. In my case I install them in the rear of the base to bring it up. It's a funny thing to me using the Bushnell boresighter when looking at the grid and making your adjustments it's opposite up for down and right for left, if I'm not confused enough.

TO NY

Tony,

You understand the concept here, don't you? It would be the same as if you shot a bullet into the target, and then you moved your crosshairs from the center of the target to the bullet hole. It's the same as Swany's one shot zeroing maneuver.

I have the same boresighter, and once you understand this, it's simple to boresight your scope.

 

[308/338]

I haven't had to use the shims when mounting a scope but I do own the 2x7 Redfield. I think you'll like the scope, mine is on a H&R 45-70 and I haven't had any problems with it. I also have the Redfield 3x9 on my .338MX and also like it. Overall I think they are good scopes for the money. Good luck with sighting in.

I didn't need the shims either. But it came with the rifle and thought I would use them to save on scopes adjustments.

I am happy with the Redfield 2x7x33 scope, it is a decent product.

TO NY

 

[308/338]

Tony,

You understand the concept here, don't you? It would be the same as if you shot a bullet into the target, and then you moved your crosshairs from the center of the target to the bullet hole. It's the same as Swany's one shot zeroing maneuver.

I have the same boresighter, and once you understand this, it's simple to boresight your scope.

I believe I got it, yes this boresighter is simple enough even I can work it.

TO NY

 

[jeepster360mag]

That Redfield sure looks good on that XLR. I was going that route until the deal on the Nitrex 1.5x5x32 came up. I hope i like the Nitrex. Something about the Redfield calls to me though.

What bases & rings are you using? weaver style i can see but more specific I can't tell.

John

 

[308/338]

That Redfield sure looks good on that XLR. I was going that route until the deal on the Nitrex 1.5x5x32 came up. I hope i like the Nitrex. Something about the Redfield calls to me though.

What bases & rings are you using? weaver style i can see but more specific I can't tell.

John

I have been looking at the Nitrex 1.5x5x32 myself 79.95 after rebate and it's a Weaver too.
Let me know if you like the Nitrex.

The base is a B-square rings are old new stock Redfield Weaver style. I like the Redfield scope with the Accu-Range Reticle it would be interesting to see how it works on targets out to 200, 250 yards out with the 35R + 200gr. FTX @ 2100fps. or if I should choose the Speer 180 gr. or 220gr. out of the XLR 24" barrel. I do have about 300 Rem. 200gr. PSPCL. for a two shot. To be honest I can't see the difference in flight between ( HDY. 200gr.FTX & Rem. 200gr. PSPCL. ) @ 2100fps. both are aerodynamic in similar shape. Maybe someone can tell me.

TO NY

 

[Golfbuddy45]

I have 5 brand new Marlins FROM Marlin North Haven and have never seen any shims in the box, with the paper work, or the hammer spur. I also see nothing in the Marlin manuals about using shims. Perhaps the shims stopped shipping with rifles at some point? Or maybe they were there but I did not know what I was looking at. Just don't remember any plastic shims.

GB45

 

[Rachethead]

I've purchased only two new Marlins since 1983; one was an '07 model 308MX,and the other was an '09 model 338MX. In the packet of papers with both were four clear plastic shims; none of which were necessary to use for mounting my big honkin' 50mm Leupold scopes.

 

[308/338]

I've purchased only two new Marlins since 1983; one was an '07 model 308MX,and the other was an '09 model 338MX. In the packet of papers with both were four clear plastic shims; none of which were necessary to use for mounting my big honkin' 50mm Leupold scopes.

I never said "necessary" it was an option I have mounted many scope in my days for myself and others. I never came across a scope that didn't need to be adjusted right, left, up, down. In the pass I have shimmed a Rem. 700 in 7mm-08 silhouette model. At the time I didn't have shims so I improvise using layers aluminum foil it worked perfect and still in uses. Whether it's true or not I have read shimming a scope helps the accuracy of the scope and save the adjustment. Well obviously it save the adjustment.

TO NY

 

[308/338]

I have 5 brand new Marlins FROM Marlin North Haven and have never seen any shims in the box, with the paper work, or the hammer spur. I also see nothing in the Marlin manuals about using shims. Perhaps the shims stopped shipping with rifles at some point? Or maybe they were there but I did not know what I was looking at. Just don't remember any plastic shims.

GB45

I bought five new Marlin rifle one in 1972 one in 1983 one in 2008 one in 2009 one in 2010 and only the last three came with shims. All were made in North Haven Connecticut before the sellout. The XLR & MX came with shims & hammer spurs. I don't think I'm the only one who purchased three express rifles that came with them.
If you purchased a NIB XLR or MX and the shims & hammer spur was not in the box. I would call and complain, at last for the hammer spur.

TO NY

 

[jeepster360mag]

My 450MXLR 92XXXX had the shims in the box. I didn't see them at first. I read about them here & looked in the box & paper work again. I found them but don't remember where exactly.

It sounds to me like the shims started when the XLR's came out or shortly there after.

John

 

[308/338]

My 450MXLR 92XXXX had the shims in the box. I didn't see them at first. I read about them here & looked in the box & paper work again. I found them but don't remember where exactly.

It sounds to me like the shims started when the XLR's came out or shortly there after.

John

"I found them but don't remember where exactly."

The shims in all three XLR & MX I have bought NIB came in an envelope. When looked in the envelope I couldn't see them so I call Marlin then in NH. CT.. I was told they were in the envelope and they were made of clear plastic. I shook the envelope and they fell out.

Another thing I like to say is that I find it curious that most of us can accept a windage base mount adjustment but not shims under the base for an elevation adjustment. The biggest selling point for the windage adjustment bases is the variation in machined surface and off center placement of taped scope holes. In my view they are one of the same.

TO NY

 

[Golfbuddy45]

I see the picture and I truly believe you but my 30AS, 336, 1894, and 1895 Marlin Manuals do not show using shims for scopes. I have not had any problems mounting scopes and bases on my 5 Marlins so I am just wondering if that problem was unique to the XLR's. In any case I know now that if I ever have a problem I can fix it with shims. I also learned something new about using a mirror to center a scope. I have been shooting for 55 years and this thread is the first time I ever heard of that so thanks for that bit on information.

GB45

 

[308/338]

I see the picture and I truly believe you but my 30AS, 336, 1894, and 1895 Marlin Manuals do not show using shims for scopes. I have not had any problems mounting scopes and bases on my 5 Marlins so I am just wondering if that problem was unique to the XLR's.
GB45

Using shims doesn't indicate a problem as I said variation in machined surface (receiver,both sides of base,both sides of rings) nothing is prefect. No you don't need to shims or use a base with a windage adjustment. You can just adjust using the scope adjustments. But you use up the the scope adjustments that way. Chances are once you sight in you will won't need the rest of the adjustment anyhow. It's an option to use shims and base windage.

The reason why a mirror works to put back the reticle to factory adjustment is that the reticle is etched on the objective lens and placing a mirror on the objective lens bell reflects the image back. The adjustment in the scope is only mirrors in the scope tube. The turret adjusters pulls or pushes the mirrors up down right left. The best adjustment is as little as possible.


TO NY