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Discussion Starter #1
Hi
After years of wanting one, I finally acquired a nice little Marlin 336. I have a few questions and I was hoping to get some guidance. Thanks in advance for taking a look. Here we go:

1. I plan to use it for deer and javelina (I live in AZ) in addition to just plain shooting. Because my eyes aren't the best (wouldn't trust myself with irons past 100), I'm likely going to put a scope on it. I was thinking a weaver base with a fixed 4x scope. Is that a good set up or should I consider something else?

2. How often should I break down the entire rifle for cleaning? Do I need to do so after every outing?

3. Is there really a great deal of difference between...say Rem CoreLokts and the Hornaday LE ammo...or is that just so much marketing?

4. Are there any "must have" modifications or accessories? The rifle seems pretty great as is, but I just would like to know the consensus.
 

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Jrose,,I had better groups with the Rem CoreLokts 170Gr. The Hornadys where way off.....

If I was you, I would take both to the range and see what happens. Ya never know
 

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First off, congrats on your new rifle. A Bushnell variable 1.5X4.5 on a Weaver single piece base with Weaver Quad-Lock Medium rings should cost you no more than $85.00 if you buy the scope from Opticsale.com. You’ll have to buy the base and rings elsewhere (MidwayUSA, Bass Pro, etc.).



Cleaning the rifle, clean it before you shoot it, especially if it is new in box. Then there are many, many opinions on when and how to clean your rifle. Some clean after every outing, others (like me) shoot every week and clean after a month or so. I'm not talking about keeping some oil on the receiver and barrel, I'm talking pulling the bolt, cleaning the action and barrel. Again, lots of opinion here.

The factory ammo is all good. Your rifle will like one better than the other so you should try several brands and find out.

The biggest improvement you can make to your new rifle will likely be a trigger job or replacing the stock trigger with an aftermarket model.

Good luck and enjoy the rifle!
 

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Jrose1967 said:
Hi
After years of wanting one, I finally acquired a nice little Marlin 336. I have a few questions and I was hoping to get some guidance. Thanks in advance for taking a look. Here we go:

1. I plan to use it for deer and javelina (I live in AZ) in addition to just plain shooting. Because my eyes aren't the best (wouldn't trust myself with irons past 100), I'm likely going to put a scope on it. I was thinking a weaver base with a fixed 4x scope. Is that a good set up or should I consider something else?

2. How often should I break down the entire rifle for cleaning? Do I need to do so after every outing?

3. Is there really a great deal of difference between...say Rem CoreLokts and the Hornaday LE ammo...or is that just so much marketing?

4. Are there any "must have" modifications or accessories? The rifle seems pretty great as is, but I just would like to know the consensus.
1. I think that is a great setup and should serve you well. Fixed magnification scopes are simple and reliable.

2. You shouldn't have to gut the receiver very often unless something breaks (which nothing will break), or if you want to do some work or replace a part for some reason. Field stripping however, should be done every time you clean it. As far as how often you'd like to clean it, well that is up to debate. Some people never clean, some people clean religiously, and some people clean only when they feel is necessary. It's really up to you, and how you feel after reading everyone's opinion.

3. The core-lokt will be a better bullet for the javelinas. The hornady gummy tipped bullets can be violent and cause a lot of meat, and pelt damage.

4. Must have modifications and accessories? I can think of none, the Marlin 336's are great rifles out of the box.

I hope I could help you, and I hope you enjoy your new rifle! I love my 336. Oh yeah, how about some pictures? ;D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the feeback guys. That does help. I'll try the different rounds and go from there. Thanks for the tips on the scope, base and rings too.

One more quick one (hopefully) and sorry for not knowing this. I most shoot birds with shotguns. Anyway...How do I sight-in the irons? I want to be able to use them on ocassion. I know the elevation is with the ramp. But to adjust windage do I bump the rear sight at the dovetail or do I try to slight the front sight?

Oh...two more...sorry...With the scope, I'm assuming I would set it to be about 3 inches high at 100 yards to be zero at 200. Is that correct? Will that give me leeway to go a bit over 200 if I guess distance a bit wrong?

Finally, and really thanks again, if I want to shoot the opens...say 50 to 150 yards (again just a bit of leeway) should I sight it in an inch or so high at 50?

Thanks.
 

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Jrose1967 said:
Hi
After years of wanting one, I finally acquired a nice little Marlin 336. I have a few questions and I was hoping to get some guidance. Thanks in advance for taking a look. Here we go:

1. I plan to use it for deer and javelina (I live in AZ) in addition to just plain shooting. Because my eyes aren't the best (wouldn't trust myself with irons past 100), I'm likely going to put a scope on it. I was thinking a weaver base with a fixed 4x scope. Is that a good set up or should I consider something else?

2. How often should I break down the entire rifle for cleaning? Do I need to do so after every outing?

3. Is there really a great deal of difference between...say Rem CoreLokts and the Hornaday LE ammo...or is that just so much marketing?

4. Are there any "must have" modifications or accessories? The rifle seems pretty great as is, but I just would like to know the consensus.
What I have for my 336's with scopes are the B-Square bases with multiple slots, like the Weaver but many equally spaced slots to give you more mounting options for the rings. Weaver low rings with Weaver 1-3 variable 20mm scope. Comes off quickly and back on to zero with no adjustments.

Also replace the stock trigger with a Happy Trigger for cleaner break, less pre and after-travel along with a Wolff reduced power hammer spring to take the pull weight down. Also replaced the front sight insert with a tritium tube insert for low light conditions.

With the javelina in the drainages or if you call them in you may find the 4x usable but maybe a little much on close fast shots at moving targets.

For field cleaning to remove dust I use a bore snake, but then clean after ever outing by removing the lever, bolt, and ejector and running a rod from the back. You may find that you that you may want to use cast bullets over jackets as they are just as effective and cost a lot less. You didn't say the chambering, mine are 35 Remington.
 

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Regarding ironsights.

Move the rear sight in the direction you want the POI (point of impact) to go. If you're shooting left, and want to go right; move the rear sight to the right. If you're shooting low, and want to shoot high you move the rear sight up, vice versa, so on and so forth. With regards to actually adjusting the windage with the factory open sights, you take a brass hammer, or any type of non-marring hammer or punch, and drift it.

With your front sight you move it in the OPPOSITE direction of where you want your bullet to go. If you're shooting right and want the bullet to go left, drift the front sight right.

With the scope, you'll have to shoot the rifle with the ammunition that performs best. I would sight the rifle in 1 1/2" high at 100 yards with standard round nose 30-30 ammo, 170gr. or higher and then fire it at 200 yards and see where it hits and then make adjustments from there. That is kind of a difficult question to answer.

EDIT: I see a lot of people recommending the WWG happy trigger and changing out springs. I feel that you need to shoot the firearm and see how you perform with it and how you like it first before changing out parts. The rifle may function fine for you, and will smoothen up and get better with time and firing.
 

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One more question, where are you at and where will you be hunting? Arizona has lots of different types of terain and that will have a bit to do with any selection.
 

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Regarding the LE ammo...I have never fired any but just going by the bullet and load specs the LE ammo for the 30-30 is several steps ahead of the run of the mill 30-30 ammo.

The ballistics of the LE ammo are VERY near 7mm Mauser...

All that said, some folks say it doesn't shoot very straight from their guns...
 

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Ridgerunner665 said:
Regarding the LE ammo...I have never fired any but just going by the bullet and load specs the LE ammo for the 30-30 is several steps ahead of the run of the mill 30-30 ammo.

The ballistics of the LE ammo are VERY near 7mm Mauser...

All that said, some folks say it doesn't shoot very straight from their guns...
I can attest to that. I did not like it at ALL.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks again for all the feedback. I'm going to look into changing out the insert in the front sight.

Tom, I live up in Cave Creek. I'm planning to put in (next week) for this area up here (Unit 21 if I remember correctly). Probably not the best unit, but it's close to my house and I know the area pretty well. I quail hunt up there. Easy to scout that way. My plan is to hunt the washes and such. It can get pretty thick.

I'll put in for the Prescott area as a back up. My sister lives up there and it's an easy drive from where I am.

Any tips, I'm all ears. Thanks.
 

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I have hunted 21 quite a bit over the last few decades and it can be a hard hunt. Send me a message with your phone number and i will give you a call. I spend most of my time at my place in Munds Park and now hunt 6A in the forest pretty much.

In the rolling hills in the Prescott area east to I-17 a good technique is to just take a slow walk in a straight line with a buddy off to the side and see what you kick up. Kind of like quail in the hills behind Seven Springs.

I am down in the valley till this Tuesday so I will give you a call when I have your number.
 

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Take a look at the Bushnell Elite, 2-7x32 scope. Very nice magnification range and the 32mm doesn;t "outsize" the rifle (40mm scopes are just too big for levers, in my opinion).

For my rifles, I shoot only reloads, and I just can;t seem to find the Remington Core-Lokt bullets anywhere. So...I reload the FTX bullet, which is the same bullet from the Leverevolution ammunition. Maybe it's because I've cusomized the loads to my rifles, but I find the FTX bullets very accurate. If you want to shoot a 200 yard zero with that ammo, you'll have to set between 2" and 3" high at 100 yards. Mine is set about 1-1/2" to 2", because I like the + or - 150 yard limit for me.

I pull the lever, bolt, and extractor after each outing to clean my bore and bolt. As someone said, there is no need to unscrew and pull the innards until you reach the point that evidence shows it needs cleaning and oiling. I've broken each of my 3 levers all the way down, but only because there's something inside me that "makes me do that", not because they needed cleaning.

Good luck!
 

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One more thing about the FTX (LeveRevolution): While the Remington Core-Lokt bullet and ammo holds the highest honors by most everyone (I can;t speak, having never fired one), the FTX bullet has done this for me: I shot a 185-200 pound boar at approximately 75 yards. The bullet entered just a fraction of an inch behind the right shoulder and exited cleanly out the left....again, just behind the shoulder. It did not hit the hog's armor. I didn;t dissect the boar to see the interior damage - I know only that he ran less than 50 yards updill before dying.

I don;t know what would have happened if I had hit him dead-on the shoulder. Maybe he would have died right there, I don;t know. There's no way for me to know how much meat would have been damaged (other than that particular shoulder - for sure).

This kill was with a 200gr Hornady FTX...... 35 Remington.
 

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I think the best ammo is the ammo that shoots the best in your rifle. I prefer 170 grain, but that's me. Find the one that shoots the best.
 
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