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Discussion Starter #1
Presently I have three of your molds with one of them being the TLC225-50-RF. Nothing wrong with the mold as it works and drops casts beautifully. However, while working up loads for the 22 Hornet and running them through the chrony a few days ago I hit one of the rods that supports the sky screen. Fortunately I use long wood sticks instead of the metal rods for just such a precaution. While replacing the damaged stick I noticed two hits to the front of the chrony. First impression was how in the heck did I do that and why didn't they damage the chrony. Then it hit me.....the gas checks were coming off as the bullets exited the muzzle. I checked the casts than I had made up previously and found out I could pull the checks off using my thumbnail. Some a little harder than others but all could be removed in this manner. I can't do this with any other caliber casts I have. I have two Lee sizers I use for the 22 caliber. One is a .224 and the other one is a .225. I had used the .225 on these casts because it gave me the diameter I wanted. I ran some of the already cast and checked bullets through the .224 sizer and I cannot pull those checks off. To date I haven't been able to work up a decent accuracy load with this bullet and the 22 Hornet and now I'm thinking this is the culprit.

So my question is do you have any suggestions that I might work with? I'm thinking about using the .224 sizer and running the cast in backwards just far enough to seat the check and then punching it back out the bottom. This would be a little time consuming but maybe workable. Is it possible this batch of checks (Hornady) could be a little off? Suggestions?
 

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I think that the best thing to do would be to enlarge the mold just at the gas check step. Ideally you should find a decimal reamer that's .001" to .002" diameter over the molds current size. Measure the inside diameter of an uncrimped gas check and don't exceed that size.
 

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Honestly, I would not ream the mold. The fit on a .22 mold is extremely critical and a little bit of change, even .001", can be way too much. One thing that Gohon did not mention is alloy and this is very important in obtaining proper fill out. If you are casting with straight wheel weights, I would suggest that you add tin to your mix (5%) and see if that helps.

The checks should not depart the bullet but I've learned to shoot with the chronograph closer to avoid damage if they do. I shoot with the screens 7' to 9' from the muzzle. An old timer taught me this and I have all but eliminated the damage when they do depart.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I do cast with just straight wheel weights and add tin but only 1-2%. I'll try casting a few tomorrow with 5% tin and see if that makes a difference. Thanks..........
 
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