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Hi guys I am looking for some advice I just came from the range and I am having a major problem with my forearm on my 336 30 30 coming out of the receiver after a couple of shots. The forearm is a very tight fit in the receiver I have to tap it into the receiver with a wooden dowel and a mallet to seat it .The barrel band is tight and I have tightened the barrel band screw as much as possible. The barrel band screw is bent from the recoil I guess. I managed to straighten the screw on my lathe.I am stumped I am looking for some suggestions on how to fix this or has anybody else had this problem.
Thanks in advance.

Frank
 

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Seems all my circa 80s and newer all have that same trait, I'm thinking bedding stock to mag. tube might be a fix.
Chime in Marlin aficionados.
 

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I believe you, but it is hard to imagine the mechanics of the problem. I'd get a new barrel band screw from Numrichs. Then I'd try to shift the fore arm forward and backward. My sense is that the wood collar on your fore stock is too short to retain the stock in place during recoil. Is the hole in the fore stock for the barrel band screw ovoid in shape and not round? It seems that a bent screw might have altered the hole size allowing fore/aft movement. Just some thoughts.
 

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Hi guys I am looking for some advice I just came from the range and I am having a major problem with my forearm on my 336 30 30 coming out of the receiver after a couple of shots. The forearm is a very tight fit in the receiver I have to tap it into the receiver with a wooden dowel and a mallet to seat it .The barrel band is tight and I have tightened the barrel band screw as much as possible. The barrel band screw is bent from the recoil I guess. I managed to straighten the screw on my lathe.I am stumped I am looking for some suggestions on how to fix this or has anybody else had this problem.
Thanks in advance.

Frank
I ran into a similar problem with a Revelation 205 (Marlin 336 copy, manufactured by Mossberg some years ago). The barrel band screw was significantly bent, and it had actually broken the head off the screw.

Here was my idea for fixing it:

I worked on a sleeve for the barrel band screw that goes through the forend. This screw was broken when I bought the gun. I ordered a replacement from Numrich.

It appears that there was lot of play between the screw, wood, and notch in the barrel. It appears that under recoil the screw would slam forward which ultimately bent the screw and misshaped the barrel relief.

It seemed that the best way to ensure a better fit and take out all that play was with some sort of shim or sleeve. I decided to make a sleeve out of a brass drift punch I had laying around (it came with the scout rail that I put on the original Lever Gun project).

The screw measured .120" exactly so a #31 drill was the right choice. The hole in the forend measured just over .180". When I started out, the punch measured .253" in diameter. So what I needed to do was drill a hole dead center for a couple inches with the #31 drill bit. Then turn the brass rod down to .180" to fit in the wood snug.

Getting a hole drilled dead center length wise in a piece of round stock can be tricky. I began by cutting a piece of 2"x6" that was about 3.5" long. I locked it in the drill press vise. I then drilled a hole in the wood about 3" deep with a 1/4" drill bit that measured .251". This was to hold the brass rod. I wanted it to be a pretty snug fit. WITHOUT MOVING ANYTHING (that's the key to this whole deal), I removed the 1/4" drill bit. Dropped the already center punched brass rod into the 1/4" hole in the wood. I started the hole with a center drill bit, then switched to the #31 bit. All the while, I made sure nothing moved. I then drilled down 2" with the small drill bit. This gave me a hole the correct size centered and drilled length wise down the rod. You can see in the pics where I am drilling the small hole and then checking the screw in it.

Now that I had my hole, I needed to reduce the overall diameter of the the rod. I chucked it in the drill press and started turning it at 3000 rpm. I used a couple files to remove the material. I was constantly chalking, filing, cleaning the file with a wire brush, and rechalking. Finally I got it down to about .175".

I cut it at about an 1" long and tested it in the forend. It was very close and required just a little bit of filing to make it fit just right. I cleaned off all the burrs and test it. It turned out great! The hole is pretty well centered through the entire sleeve. It's not perfect but that's about as good as I can do with the equipment that I have.

It is a little larger than the barrel notch, so I will have to widen it just a smidge just to make it fit a little better. But, it fits close enough to go together even now. A little more work and it will be perfect.

The whole thing took me about 2 hours. Replacing the screw would have been a short term fix, but I think this will last for a long time.

REV205.53.jpg REV205.54.jpg REV205.55.jpg REV205.56.jpg REV205.57.jpg
 

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Make sure the slot in the barrel has not enlarged. If it is not, then bed the barrel properly in the forearm.
Right now the screw is the only component absorbing the recoil in the forearm.
I would replace that screw with one that has a better tinsel strength. Marlins SS replacement band screw works well. just die the ends black and no one will know the difference. :biggrin:

Marlin Rear Band Screw Marlin 336SS 30-30 Winchester SS
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks to everybody for the feedback, I will take a serious look at the forearm and the hole for the screw I like the bushing idea that looks like it will solve the problem.

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Guy's, Just an update on what I have done to try and solve this problem. I took the magazine tube and the forearm off the rifle and I found that the radius in the magazine tube where it meets the radius in the barrel was about .100" out of position, missmatch (Remlin Quality I guess) they did not line up so what was happening was the barrel band screw was riding over the groove on the magazine tube. I took my Dremel grinder with a small stone and recut the radius on the magazine tube to match the radius on the barrel. I assembled the magazine tube and the forearm back on the rifle, I managed to slide a .177 diameter drill through the forearm and the forearm is nice and tight against the receiver, no movement whatsoever, I drilled and tapped the barrel band to take a 10-32 thread and drilled the other side of the barrel band out to .180" I then took a 10-32 x 1-1/2" long good quality Button head socket cap screw and machined the diameter to .173". I polished out the inside of the barrel band with my Dremel and a small emery flap wheel, then I polished up the barrel band with 400 grit wet & dry paper I re-blued the band and the new screw and put it on the forearm it slides on nicely with no effort and the new screw is a bigger diameter and of high quality so I am hoping that this will solve the problem. I will be at the range this weekend and I will report back whether this mod was a success.
 

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Done the 10-32 replacement screw myself.

Hope it works well for you.
 

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Sounds like a rock solid fix. Thanks for the info.
 

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My smith has fixed a few leverguns for me with this problem by using a Mod 700 action screw/bolt. He drills out/taps the band/rethreads the bolt and it is rock solid. Lots of good fixes posted too, though I am not a machinist, my smith friend is, ha. I prefer the looks of the forearm band as opposed to the cap, and I've even had the forearm caps need the same big bolt treatment, but that was on a 444.
 

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If your gun has no sling swivel. Add one of the kind that clamps to the mag tube and butt it against the fore end.
 

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Hi Guy's, Just an update on what I have done to try and solve this problem. I took the magazine tube and the forearm off the rifle and I found that the radius in the magazine tube where it meets the radius in the barrel was about .100" out of position, missmatch (Remlin Quality I guess) they did not line up so what was happening was the barrel band screw was riding over the groove on the magazine tube. I took my Dremel grinder with a small stone and recut the radius on the magazine tube to match the radius on the barrel. I assembled the magazine tube and the forearm back on the rifle, I managed to slide a .177 diameter drill through the forearm and the forearm is nice and tight against the receiver, no movement whatsoever, I drilled and tapped the barrel band to take a 10-32 thread and drilled the other side of the barrel band out to .180" I then took a 10-32 x 1-1/2" long good quality Button head socket cap screw and machined the diameter to .173". I polished out the inside of the barrel band with my Dremel and a small emery flap wheel, then I polished up the barrel band with 400 grit wet & dry paper I re-blued the band and the new screw and put it on the forearm it slides on nicely with no effort and the new screw is a bigger diameter and of high quality so I am hoping that this will solve the problem. I will be at the range this weekend and I will report back whether this mod was a success.
Sounds like a good fix. Look forward to hearing the range report.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi Guy's,
Just another update, I spent a couple of hours at the range on Saturday and the heavier 10-32 screw that I modified to fit the barrel band has been successful. The forearm is no longer coming out of the receiver and my rifle is grouping to my satisfaction with my Skinner Peep sight I am getting a 3" group at 75 yards, and when I put the scope on with Leupold quick detachable mounts I am getting a 1.5"-2" group at 100 yards. Most of the Deer I take are between 50 and 75 yards using open sights, after 60 rounds and no movement of the forearm whatsoever I think my problem has been solved.
 

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