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I have a new 336 I got from Cabellas on the used gun rack. It still had the "Made in USA" tag hanging from the front sling mount. Cabellas said it was part of a deal where Marlin got rid of all their new stuff after the takeover, with the requirement that it be sold as "used." The first time I loaded it, the brass left a clear scrape on the loading gate that is still there. So I'm sure it was brand new. I fired it fifteen or twenty times at the range and things were fine. But now the lever locks up on me constantly. With the lever down, it is impossible to move and the loading gate locks up too. In some cases a round is removed from the magazine, and it can be shaken out of the ejection port, but I have to take the thing apart to get the lever to go back up. Once I've done that I can work the lever (empty) a dozen times and it works perfectly, but load it again and suddenly it locks up. I can put a round in the chamber and fire it just fine. But I can't load from the magazine and fire. Anybody got any ideas about what's wrong?
 

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Mac, you may have a loose loading gate screw. if the loading gate works into the action it will stop the carrier from lifting. tighten the small screw at the rear of the loading gate and see if that helps... also check out the "Marlin jam" threads down in the gun smithing section... lots of good help there... and welcome to Marlin Owners!!!
 

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Mac, you may have a loose loading gate screw. if the loading gate works into the action it will stop the carrier from lifting. tighten the small screw at the rear of the loading gate and see if that helps... also check out the "Marlin jam" threads down in the gun smithing section... lots of good help there... and welcome to Marlin Owners!!!
I will second that, the loading gate screw being lose can cause all kinds of tricky little problems. Make sure that darn little screw is tight, i had one the screw kept wanting to back out for some reason. I tightened it up with crazy glue on it, problem solved. I know that was a wild idea but i didn't have nothing else and was sick of it. No doubt this could be another problem, but i always keep check to make extra sure that screw is tight.
 

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Welcome from Goldthwaite, TX! I'd guess the loading gate screw as well! Sure hope that's the problem. John
 
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a little removable lock-tite should stop the screw from backing out and still allow you to pull it for a complete tear down...
 

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if its not the loading gate try bending the carriage up a little bit (place on a flat surface you dont mind marking, and hit in the middle with a rubber mallet) I had this binding issue on my 1895 and it locked my leaver tight a number of times.
 

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I bought a used (don't believe it was ever loaded) 336 and the first time I cycled it, the lever locked in the open position. After checking with the good folks here, I put a drop of oil in a few places and cycled it about 50 times and now it is working well. I have not loaded a round in it, so I'm not sure how it will work. But for cycling without rounds, it seems to work well.
 

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Yup, lock-tite would have certainly been a better choice on my behalf. lol.
but we do with what we have... superglue isn't really very strong in shear, so backing out the screw shouldn't be too difficult... and it cleans off with a sharp needle so you'll be good

I gotta get me some lock-tite myself...:flute:
 

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As said, start by checking all your screws. They don't need to be farmer tight, but do need to be snug. I prefer fingernail polish to Loc Tite.

Don't bend anything until we do some more diagnosis. It may be you need to do this but there's some other things we need to try before we manipulate parts.

If the screws don't fix it, tear the whole thing down. You can find instructions by clicking the link in my signature. There's a detailed post on disassembly of the 1895 that you can follow. You'll have bbl bands vs. an end cap and don't have to twist the forearm to get it off but the overall process is the same. Clean everything very well, including the mag tube and spring. Inspect the mag tube for dents and burrs, especially where it meets the receiver, use your pinky finger and feel around. Inspect your mag tube follower to make sure it isn't buggered.

Also, try to be aware if it does it on every round or certain rounds.

Start with all that and see where it gets ya.

And welcome to MO. :)
 

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I installed a Picatinny rail last night and used Locktite.
The Lockite bled through and got onto the bolt.
The action would not work until I actually let the hammer strike. (FYI - Normally you should NOT do this)
After that it was free enough to come out where I saw what happened. So I cleaned it up and put on some gun oil and now it works fine.
 

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Mac, you may have a loose loading gate screw. if the loading gate works into the action it will stop the carrier from lifting. tighten the small screw at the rear of the loading gate and see if that helps... also check out the "Marlin jam" threads down in the gun smithing section... lots of good help there... and welcome to Marlin Owners!!!
NO, nothing to do with the loading spring or screw if the rifle cycles fine empty. ...............But check the tightness anyway.

The condition you have is called "letting in Two".............

The carrier front end is sitting too low and will not act a cartridge cutoff to hold back the rounds in the mag tube.

Remove the carrier, position/Support it at both ends above a surface plate.

With Calipers, measure from the center on the carrier to the surface plate...Record the dimension.

With a Brass hammer, Tap the center of the carrier in the center until the new measurement is .010-.0015 LESS than the initial dimension...........You have bent the center of the carrier down, effectively raising the front end relative to the pivot point.........

Reassemble the rifle and the issue will be gone.


Tom
 

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I installed a Picatinny rail last night and used Locktite.
The Lockite bled through and got onto the bolt.
The action would not work until I actually let the hammer strike. (FYI - Normally you should NOT do this)
After that it was free enough to come out where I saw what happened. So I cleaned it up and put on some gun oil and now it works fine.
Which (what number) Loc-Tite did you use?

Tom
 
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Use some green loctite! It's sleeve retainer and works great! And will never come back apart! Just kiddin, don't use green..
Welcome to Marlin Owners!
 

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Welcome from down south Louisiana.

ca'jun56
 

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I installed a Picatinny rail last night and used Locktite.
The Lockite bled through and got onto the bolt.
The action would not work until I actually let the hammer strike. (FYI - Normally you should NOT do this)
After that it was free enough to come out where I saw what happened. So I cleaned it up and put on some gun oil and now it works fine.
Yep...all too easy to have Loctite bleed through, or to screw one of the headless screws too far in. BLUE Loctite is what you should be using if you ever want the screw to come out again.
 

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I see a lot of Marlins that had loc-tite on the scope mount and they used way too much. It leaves a thin film on the receiver and is agrivating to remobe without scratching up the top of it. Just a drop will do.
 

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I see a lot of Marlins that had loc-tite on the scope mount and they used way too much. It leaves a thin film on the receiver and is agrivating to remobe without scratching up the top of it. Just a drop will do.
I agree.....................

The correct way to apply Loc-Tite is to put the Loc-Tite IN the tapped hole.....NOT on the screw threads...........And THAT'S why so many receivers have a dried Loc-Tite "puddle" under the scope mounts.

Again, the ONLY Loc-Tite that should be used on sights and scope mounts is Loc-Tite #222..............and it's light Blue in color.

If you don't have #222, use nail polish........any color that matches your eyes and your accessories is fine.

Be sure to de-grease the hole and the screw,(Alochol or lighter fluid) no matter what you use.............

Tom
 
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