just looking at the stock and from what i can tell there isn't a whole lot of places to put the bedding material. show me some pics of your bed job so i can see where to do it. i just ordered some acraglas gel and plan on doing this and a couple others. never done it before, so tell me things to watch for. thanks. just can't justify paying a gunsmith 75 bucks when i can do 10 of my own guns for that price. i am fairly handy and confident in my abilities.
pics of glass bed to x7 or similar?
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I just finished bedding an XS7 in a Boyds stock. There are few places for the bedding material. After milling some of the wood on the Boyds stock, I put bedding around the front of the action and the recoil lug area. I also place some around the rear of the action. I will try to get some pictures to post. But I am very busy at the moment.
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This may give you some starting idea: YOUTUBE of Larry from MidayUSA doing a Bolt Action rifle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMsxHL3nIZQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMsxHL3nIZQ
In his intro, 'Larry' said a bedded/pillar bedded rifle with a free-floated barrel is the 'ultimate' for accuracy, but it looked to me like he fully bedded the entire stock length??GJinNY said:
And I couldn't quite tell who the heck he was actually looking at? ;D........."and thank's for your business".....
Me too but then again, he also taped the barrel, which when the tape was pulled off, would have provided a little gap for the length of the tape. Don,t know why he went to the trouble to bed (under the tape) in the first place. IMO a barrel needs more clearance than mere tape thickness, if it is to be a successful free-floater.Xlr8n said:
yes the intentions are to free float the barrel (no contact) and glass bed the action. so the only thing touching the barrel is where it meets the receiver. some say its best to support the barrel for a couple inches some do not. i haven't decided how i'm going to yet, thats why i was wanting some more pics.
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I just got into bedding 6-7 years ago and have only bedded five rifles. One was a Mod 70
copy and the others were Savages, with all being wood laminate. None of them were bedded
past the recoil lug and four out of five shoot under MOA. The Mod 70 copy had issues to
begin with, but bedding did improve groups.
The X7's stock/pillar placement is similar to a Rem 700 (as opposed to Savage/Stevens) and
could be done similarly:
http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/pillar.html
If you are bedding the factory stocks which are already pillared, just dremel out around the
pillars and where the stock meets the rear of the recoil lug. It is my understanding that the
epoxy will not adhere all that well to stock plastic so it's a good idea to shallow drill a few 1/8"
holes at different angles to create "mechanical locks", which you want there and NO WHERE on
the receiver! Make certain that there is no place the epoxy will get into a hole or slot in the
receiver.
I may use the tupperware stock and if so, plan to do it as described above. It will look similar
to the 3d photo on the page link above. But also got a laminated Boyd's and will probably end
up going the whole pillar route. (NOT going to use 15 minute epoxy, though......I work too
slow. ;D
You can also incorporate the stress free bedding described on the following page:
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
That's a beautifully perfect full length pillar/bedding job, (full length of the receiver, that is)
but you really only need the areaaround the pillars and recoil bedded for good accuracy
(refer to 3d photo in first link at the Varmint Hunters site.
copy and the others were Savages, with all being wood laminate. None of them were bedded
past the recoil lug and four out of five shoot under MOA. The Mod 70 copy had issues to
begin with, but bedding did improve groups.
The X7's stock/pillar placement is similar to a Rem 700 (as opposed to Savage/Stevens) and
could be done similarly:
http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/pillar.html
If you are bedding the factory stocks which are already pillared, just dremel out around the
pillars and where the stock meets the rear of the recoil lug. It is my understanding that the
epoxy will not adhere all that well to stock plastic so it's a good idea to shallow drill a few 1/8"
holes at different angles to create "mechanical locks", which you want there and NO WHERE on
the receiver! Make certain that there is no place the epoxy will get into a hole or slot in the
receiver.
I may use the tupperware stock and if so, plan to do it as described above. It will look similar
to the 3d photo on the page link above. But also got a laminated Boyd's and will probably end
up going the whole pillar route. (NOT going to use 15 minute epoxy, though......I work too
slow. ;D
You can also incorporate the stress free bedding described on the following page:
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
That's a beautifully perfect full length pillar/bedding job, (full length of the receiver, that is)
but you really only need the areaaround the pillars and recoil bedded for good accuracy
(refer to 3d photo in first link at the Varmint Hunters site.
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When glass bedding a stock you only bed the receiver area, recoil lug, and the first 3" of the barrel for support. Anymore bedding done further than that should be done only for strength, and be thin, and the barrel should be taped off to ensure it is still free floating.
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If one beds the first 3" of the barrel, what is being supported? Will this area expand with heat when firing?186 Tmanbuckhunter said:
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It's not in the interest of supporting the barrel since you're freefloating, it's in the interest of supporting the receiver. so under the stress of firing it has no room at all to move. Usually the first 3" of the barrel are the thickest, and won't be affected by any sort of bedding.DannoBoone said:
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