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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Both my .410 and 20 have trouble with the ejector. Maybe the extractor but I'm not sure because it seems to be a single unit.

I could put several rounds through it and then after a a few, I would break the barrel but it would not eject and the only way to remove the spent shells were to take a cleaning rod through the muzzle end. It barely took any effort to remove the spent shells. It was definitely only a problem when the guns were warm. The 20 gauge I left a spent shell in after shooting and after the hour long drive home from the range it popped right out when I broke the barrel.

Any ideas?
 

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Are the guns new, any sign of rust on the ejector when it operates correctly, have you tried a drop of oil on the ejector shaft, spray the whole ejector mechanism in the barrel lug with Rem Oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Brand new firearms, no rust, operates fine without firing and it is oiled with Hoppe's #9.

Is there a break in period that you know of? Getting my old Remington 870 took a few rounds to function very smoothly.
 

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your shotgun has an ejector if it"s factory. The ejector itself is spring loaded, when you close the action it pushes the ejector in till a spring loaded catch grabs and holds it, like a trigger holds a hammer back. When you open the action slowly you"ll see that the ejector stays in till you get the action all the way open, you"ll feel a little bump and the catch will let the ejector pop out. There's several roll pins in the lug that hold the ejector parts in the lug....if you look at the side of the lug you"ll see em. The large diameter roll pin holds in the ejector release. This pin is longer than the lug is wide....it protrudes on each side and when you get the barrel all the way open the ends of this pin comes against a stop in the frame, and it releases the ejector like a trigger releases a hammer. If yours works some of the time but not all of the time it is not likely caused by heat. Look at the lug and that roll pin. The pin is longer than the lug is wide so it sticks out on both sides of the lug. This protrusion must be even on both sides,not sticking out farther on one side then the other. If it's not even take a hammer and a punch and tap the pin sideways to even it up. There have also been cases where the oal of this pin is a hair short and the fix is to replace the pin with the next longer one and shorten it(the new pin with a file till it will just fit in the reciever(width) when you install the barrel. Hope this helps.....Mike
 

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had another idea....you said it was a new gun...maybe you are being a little too "gentle" with it cause it's new. Try opening the barrel a little more vigorously. When you get to the end of the barrel opening movement give it just a little more force at the end of the downstroke of the barrel to bump that roll pin just a little harder
 

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I had one that did the same but it was a 12 guage. I just took it all down smooth everything up with fine emery cloth, oil it real good with hopps and never had a problem since.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
your shotgun has an ejector if it"s factory. The ejector itself is spring loaded, when you close the action it pushes the ejector in till a spring loaded catch grabs and holds it, like a trigger holds a hammer back. When you open the action slowly you"ll see that the ejector stays in till you get the action all the way open, you"ll feel a little bump and the catch will let the ejector pop out. There's several roll pins in the lug that hold the ejector parts in the lug....if you look at the side of the lug you"ll see em. The large diameter roll pin holds in the ejector release. This pin is longer than the lug is wide....it protrudes on each side and when you get the barrel all the way open the ends of this pin comes against a stop in the frame, and it releases the ejector like a trigger releases a hammer. If yours works some of the time but not all of the time it is not likely caused by heat. Look at the lug and that roll pin. The pin is longer than the lug is wide so it sticks out on both sides of the lug. This protrusion must be even on both sides,not sticking out farther on one side then the other. If it's not even take a hammer and a punch and tap the pin sideways to even it up. There have also been cases where the oal of this pin is a hair short and the fix is to replace the pin with the next longer one and shorten it(the new pin with a file till it will just fit in the reciever(width) when you install the barrel. Hope this helps.....Mike
Great advice, I'm definitely going to look into that.

had another idea....you said it was a new gun...maybe you are being a little too "gentle" with it cause it's new. Try opening the barrel a little more vigorously. When you get to the end of the barrel opening movement give it just a little more force at the end of the downstroke of the barrel to bump that roll pin just a little harder
I don't think its a problem of force, but its something to consider. My 12 gauge has no problems at all and I noticed the difference in opening partially versus all the way.

I had one that did the same but it was a 12 guage. I just took it all down smooth everything up with fine emery cloth, oil it real good with hopps and never had a problem since.
A combo of this with Zoner's advice seem to be the right route to take.


Thank you guys for your thoughts.
 
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