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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'd be interested in hearing of folk's best finds.
I see a number of Pawn shop finds here, and references to sales at specific stores but don't see many from corners of old barns, closets, old uncles estate sales or garage sales.
I've found several old 36's, 1936's a a couple of 1893's with near perfect metal but stocks need refinishing for in the $200-300 range.

My best pick was a $325 online purchase of a 1946 or 1947 ( I think) Sporting Carbine ... carbine barrel, 2/3 magazine, beautiful metal and stock...
it arrived with a spiral split in the rear stock in an obviously weak grain structure... in three pieces. I restored the stock to new, it shoots cast bullets spot on, and the insurance paid me $355.00!!! Wish I could find damaged goods like that all day long.
Free is good.
My second best was a 1904 Wichester 94, museum quality for CHEAP. I have not had any restoration needs on that one.
Lately, I've focused on 1936As, 36As, and pre 1952 336As and had reasonable success... and boy are they tack drivers with peep sights and cast bullets!
 

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The first year of production for the 336, was 1948.

After re-reading your post, I realized the 1946 or 47 you were talking about was not pictured.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yep, you are certainly correct, and sorry for the mixed message in discussion the earlier squarebolts.
The one pictured is, I believe a '51, or '53.
My noble objective is a full collection between 1893 to 1955, (HAH!!!)
I have a start, but obviously a long road ahead...
Giddy-ness is a side affect of marlinitus.
 

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Shame it hadn't been looked after Doc.
 

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Howdy Oz, that's a big fish you got there. What did that thing weigh?

I was able to get all that rust off with brake fluid and steel wool. Metal not pitted except near the muzzle. A reblue and refinish on the wood and she'll be good to go.
 

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Doc i'm curious...what did the brake fluid do to the blue? I remember when I was a kid getting some brake fluid on the paint of the car! :eek: Wouldn't some gun oil and 0000 steel wool have been better? Mayne your intention was to take it down to the white?

If your going to cold blue I did a shotgun with a product called Van's cold blue. I paid $40 for a quart delivered. With a proper cleaning of brake clean it came out beautiful! Soaking works best ,but the barrel being long I just kept bathing it for 3 min and it came out nice! Here's a pic for ya!

From this



To this





 

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When is metal beyond refinishing? Freckling? Pitting? I see a lot of interesting rifles with some decent corrosion and wonder if they're beyond repair. I used to think a rifle needed to look perfect, then i turned 40. I'm showing a little wear. Why shouldn't my rifle.
 

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bowhntr04 said:
When is metal beyond refinishing? Freckling? Pitting? I see a lot of interesting rifles with some decent corrosion and wonder if they're beyond repair. I used to think a rifle needed to look perfect, then i turned 40. I'm showing a little wear. Why shouldn't my rifle.
Yeah but your pitting won't get bad until you are 70+! ::) ;D I know from experience! :-\ ;)

CJ
 

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First-year 336ADL, 30-30. Paid a total of $282.50 for it. (Too much in my estimation, but it's the only '48 ADL I've ever come across...)
Pawn shop purchase.
 

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My 1966 39A I bought in a tag sale for $20 it had lots of rust externally and front and rear sight both broken, in fact the front ramp had one screw broken off in it. It was a pistol grip with full wood, I narrowed it and converted it to a straight stock to resemble the first year 1953 Mountie with long bbl and narrow forearm.
 

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My 1947 Model 36 as bought for $175 out the door with shortened stock and bad finish but with Lyman 56 peep.
 

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The same model 36 after I purchased a crescent stock and buttplate from a member and fitted and finished the stock and refinished and narrowed the forearm. Total investment in a very good shooting 30-30 $250.
 

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I've pushed the want one button on several members and one made one like it. Lot of really nasty 39As out there for donor matierial, you just have to run across the right deal.

Ran across another deal on a 70 Centenial 336 in 30-30 unfortunate that the medallion stock was cracked but I got it for a lesser price he wanted $350 I now have that much in it with a new set of wood that is deluxe checkered and a semi crescent buttplate. Still don't know if I'm going to redo it or leave it as is.

Bottom line I do like redoing the pawn shop and tag sale guns that need a little TLC
 

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My best two Marlin finds are a 1948 ADL for 185 +tax at a gun shop. It needed a good bit of TLC, It is really smooth and has no pitting, but it has been used a lot. Owner died, son didn't want it in the house, sold it. I bought it before the ink on the sellers paper was dry. The other was a Glenfield 30, used but really just about perfect for 112.95 + tax at a pawn shop about a year ago. That shop does not retail guns and occasionally lets me cherry pick one before the wholesale buyers get it. I have made a few good buys there. This week They had a Model 60 S & W priced to wholesalers for 140. The cylinder would not close. I thought I could repair it, even if the crane was out of alignment. Bought it and about 10 minutes in the garage with carburetor cleaner and Break Free. the barrel cylinder latch freed up and it closed easily. A complete disassembly and cleaning and it now functions a good or better than a new one. Likely about 35 years of gummy grease washed out of the piece. Now then, there are a few that we just don't want to talk about because they cost about all they are worth! Good day, Jack
 

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I used brake fluid because I've always heard it was good for removing rust. It won't remove blue, just paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Nice to know I'm in good company salvaging ravaged Marlins. But you guys have made some decent scores pricewise too.

One memorable save was for a friend who found an early 336 in the trunk of his granpa's car... after the funeral.
Having laid on on side probably for several years (decades?) the left side was stained, rusted/pitted terribly, but the insides and bore were in fine shape.
After carful rust removal, the metal as still pitted badly.. As a last resort to have a presentable gun, I bead blasted all exterior surface whole gun, filled the pits, reprepped the surface and durocoated it in a satin blue/black.
After the woodwork was bleached and restained to a uniform tone and an antique satin finish rubbed in, it looks better than it rightly should, and should make a great-grandson a good first deer gun with a bit of family history to boot.
 
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