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The same old song and dance. "You'll kill the value" From what I get from looking at a lot of Marlins on auction sites where many current gun values are established, this is not the case. Unless it is in original pristine condition, you are really not hurting the value. I have seen a lot of them that bring more money with scope holes in them. Just my observations. If you need optics because of declining eyesight, do not feel bad about making something more useful. If its a hunting rifle, take it hunting. Your rifle, your choice. It will still be a Marlin. JMO
I have a 1951 35 REM, 336sc that is in perfect shape (only
Been fired about 20 times total )
I put a rail on it and have mounted an acog scope on it , It is now a perfect shooting gun
 

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If your 1951 has factory done checkering on the pistol grip and forearm ...it shoul be a 336 ADL..
Which stands for A = 24 inch bbl. And the DL = Deluxe ......these are much rarer than the 336A. They usually had a nicer piece of select walnut for the stock set. If you can ...please take several photos of the rifle and post them here, by selecting the " paper clip icon" in the tool bar below.
If it is a decent shape ADL....it is worth about $1000 to $1300 . More if the wal ut is figured.

I would not recommend drilling and tapping for a scope. If you want a Marlin to hunt Deer, pigs, black bear ..etc. I would recommend you look for a nice used 336 with a 20 inch barrel....made in the 1960s to 1970s in
35 remington caliber...it is a better hunting caliber.
 

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New member looking for info. I have a 1951 manufactured 336 A 30-30 checkered forearm and pistol grip rifle length barrel and 5 round mag tube.Gun isn’t drilled and tapped which I’m thinking about having done, any thoughts out there
You might want to check out Dr. Pearson's No-Drill rails. He initially made these for mounting optics on Winchester top-ejects, but he also makes a universal rail that will fit many rifles and mounts in the open sight real dovetail. It is fairly short and mainly intended for using micro red dot optics, but might work with a small scout or longer eye-relief scope. I bought his no-drill rail for my Winchester Model 94 and installed a Burris FastFire II Red Dot on it, and it works well. A no-drill rail would allow you to try installing some type of optic on the rifle without permanently altering the rifle.
 

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New member looking for info. I have a 1951 manufactured 336 A 30-30 checkered forearm and pistol grip rifle length barrel and 5 round mag tube.Gun isn’t drilled and tapped which I’m thinking about having done, any thoughts out there
A classic with checkering........... don’t drill and ruin its original value. If it is factory drilled for receiver sights do that instead they work great. Keep it original.
 

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An ADL from 1951 is worth more than stated above. I could sell my 1951 RC for a grand. The percentage of devaluation from drilling a waffle top right now is less than it used to be because of the inflated prices. $250 less value doesn't mean as much on a $1000 rifle as it does on a $500 rifle. Someone said a 1951 undrilled waffle top is not rare. Sure, they made a bunch but how many are left undrilled and in very good shape? It would have to be beat up for me to drill it and that still wouldn't happen because I don't buy beat up guns. There's WAY better choices for a hunting rifle anyway.
 

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I too would hesitate to drill & tap this rifle. If financially feasible, prowl the gun shows, pawn shops and local gun shops for a well used, later model 336 in "field condition" already D&T'd. When you can, post a WantToBuy ad herein. Look at GunsAmerica and Gun Broker for a fairly priced rifle. Even "field grade" 336 rifles still shoot well. A later model Remlin may be a solution.

I have two late model Remlins, a 336 and an 1894 and they are both well made, well finished, good quality firearms.

That being said, I understand your desire to scope the rifle. I have sold virtually everything that was iron sighted and now have scopes on all my centerfire and rimfire rifles. Old age isn't easy.

Good Luck
 
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