For about what you'll lose in value by drilling you rifle you can buy a second, already-drilled later version of the same gun. That would be my option.
I have a 1951 35 REM, 336sc that is in perfect shape (onlyThe same old song and dance. "You'll kill the value" From what I get from looking at a lot of Marlins on auction sites where many current gun values are established, this is not the case. Unless it is in original pristine condition, you are really not hurting the value. I have seen a lot of them that bring more money with scope holes in them. Just my observations. If you need optics because of declining eyesight, do not feel bad about making something more useful. If its a hunting rifle, take it hunting. Your rifle, your choice. It will still be a Marlin. JMO
You might want to check out Dr. Pearson's No-Drill rails. He initially made these for mounting optics on Winchester top-ejects, but he also makes a universal rail that will fit many rifles and mounts in the open sight real dovetail. It is fairly short and mainly intended for using micro red dot optics, but might work with a small scout or longer eye-relief scope. I bought his no-drill rail for my Winchester Model 94 and installed a Burris FastFire II Red Dot on it, and it works well. A no-drill rail would allow you to try installing some type of optic on the rifle without permanently altering the rifle.New member looking for info. I have a 1951 manufactured 336 A 30-30 checkered forearm and pistol grip rifle length barrel and 5 round mag tube.Gun isn’t drilled and tapped which I’m thinking about having done, any thoughts out there
A classic with checkering........... don’t drill and ruin its original value. If it is factory drilled for receiver sights do that instead they work great. Keep it original.New member looking for info. I have a 1951 manufactured 336 A 30-30 checkered forearm and pistol grip rifle length barrel and 5 round mag tube.Gun isn’t drilled and tapped which I’m thinking about having done, any thoughts out there