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I bought an 1894 (serial 26xxx) from a pawn shop a couple of weeks ago. The pawn shop was out of state, so I called and talked to a worker there and got some pictures sent to me. It looked pretty good from what I could tell so I bought it ($450). When I got ahold of it from my local FFL, I was a little disappointed with the amount of rust. I haven't cleaned it whatsoever yet, but it's driving me crazy not to. Wanted to see how you guys think I should start.

Right now I'm thinking of hitting it with some CLP and 0000 steel wool. I'm planning on putting some oil on the light rust spots and trying to get what I can off with the steel wool. For the bore (the inside doesn't look bad, just the muzzle) I'm thinking of just dropping bore cleaner in there and running a rod through it too see how clean it gets. Here are some before pics. If you want to see a different angle or anything just lemme know.

In the meantime, any advice or if you have a link to another thread that I haven't found yet, it'd be appreciated. I've read and learned quite a bit from all you guys in the past couple of weeks. thanks
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Some of the surface rust spots you can rub out with the edge of a penny. It will remove the rust without scratching up the underlying steel of the barrel. CLP and some 0000 steel wool will probably do a good job on the lighter areas. I think you got a good rifle at a decent price, cosmetics can be cleaned up.
 

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For what it's worth, if you can find some copper wool, that's better that steel wool IMHO. Like lever addict, I'd recommend letting parts soak in oil for 3 or 4 days and then go slowly and patiently. We're looking forward to the after pics. John
 

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Nothing is more beautiful than a blue steel and walnut rifle that shows a little character ................ clean 'er up as best you can and then hunt/ shoot the crap out of her .................... she will look better than any safe queen out there :)

I agree with the total teardown and cleaning. I use Kroil and a brass wool but in reality all of the above recommendations are good. Although my eyes aren't too good anymore she does not look bad at all to me.
 

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Looks to me like that'll clean up pretty good with the tips already given about the oil soaking first. I'd probably 'wash' the tight spots with some Brakleen right before it goes into the oil.
 
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Good advice from all above

Congrats and enjoy
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the advice, I'll be using all of it. Since it'll be a total teardown, I'll take pics along the way and then some after shots. I'm taking it out to Indiana in a couple weeks for deer so you'll have the after pics before I leave for the hunt. With a little luck I'll have a harvest pic shortly thereafter. If not, I'll take some pictures of people admiring my gun at deer camp. thanks again, you guys rock.
 

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Thanks for the advice, I'll be using all of it. Since it'll be a total teardown, I'll take pics along the way and then some after shots. I'm taking it out to Indiana in a couple weeks for deer so you'll have the after pics before I leave for the hunt. With a little luck I'll have a harvest pic shortly thereafter. If not, I'll take some pictures of people admiring my gun at deer camp. thanks again, you guys rock.
Check out post #6 here: http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/336/152410-question-regarding-centennial-336-a.html If you're interested in how to do this yourself, PM me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Beautiful job Blackbarry! I'm going to figure out where I can get some Kroil or Brakleen around here, soak it, and rub it with some wool and see how it comes out. The refinish looks great. I haven't done anything like that before but might have to try it after how good yours came out
 

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GREAT job on the refurb Black Barry!
 

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Beautiful job Blackbarry! I'm going to figure out where I can get some Kroil or Brakleen around here, soak it, and rub it with some wool and see how it comes out. The refinish looks great. I haven't done anything like that before but might have to try it after how good yours came out
Thanks for the compliment. I researched "home bluing" and decided upon a Midway product, Arts Belgian Blue. Midway has a Youtube video on it. It involves stripping off the old blue from the barrel, 100% degreasing, and boiling the barrel in water between applications of the product. This was my 2nd go-round with the product. My best advice is do not quit in the middle. The process creates a tan/green crud layer on the metal that is removed with 0000 steel wool after each application. It takes 6-8 applications to get where you're happy. Hopefully you're thrilled. If you're good at following directions, it's easy. Here is a before/after of my first barrel re-blue on my 1960 Marlin Model 80:
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You're headed the right direction with light oil and super fine steel wool. I prefer bronze wool, Ace has it in the paint department, no chance of scratching with that. Oxphoblue will also remove some flash rust, if you get around to touching metal finish up.

I'm no fan of those magazine sling bands, the tube is just mild steel strip, not even welded on the seam, very easy to bend. The proper item is the factory forearm cap with a sling stud, takes some fitting, though. Is the buttstock bullseye still there or did the previous owner puncture it with a sling stud?

Looks like you also need a front sight hood.

It's been well used, screwheads look good, though. A little TLC should get it slicked up and barking again. My guess is that it was a barn or truck gun and the rust is from condensation. Needs a regular pass with an oily rag to prevent the rust.

I can't see what condition the wood is in, I'd use some mild detergent solution on a rag or paper towel to clean off any dirt first, then do an evaluation as to the finish condition. Have at it! Need some after pics, too.

Stan S.
 

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Save yourself a bunch of work and use Ballistoil and these pads from Brownell's to clean the rust. Soak any small rusted parts in Ballistoil. You can actually see the rust seeping from the parts.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...al-wool/stainless-steel-sponge-prod21175.aspx
They remove crud and rust but not any bluing. Then get one of these bluing kits from Blue Wonder. Follow the directions and the finish is superb. The best I have found of anything short of professional hot bluing. The key is to have the finish clean and free of oils.
 
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