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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

This is my first post and hopefully not my last. I've been looking around the site over the past week or so and have learned a lot so far and hope to learn a lot more with the help of fellow forum members.

Anyways, I just bought my first lever gun, a 336SS. For the hunting we do in up state NY, (thick, heavily wooded ridges) carrying a 9+ pound set-up (scoped model 70) 5 to 10 miles a day can not only be tiring but by the end of the day just plain annoying. After this past season, I came to the realization that there is no need to carry a scoped .300 short mag when shots will rarely, if ever, be over 75 yards. I have some experience with older lever guns and love how they feel, shoulder, carry and shoot and thought to myself, why not carry one when deer hunting the deep woods. After a brief explaination to my wife why I needed yet another firearm, I picked one up from our local dealer.

for the most part, I like the gun as it is, very smooth, well made etc. But as I said in the title, I'd like to do some work, both internally and externally to the gun to make it perfect. I've got a running list of "bolt on" parts to buy for it, (so far the WWG trigger and extractor, some Wolff springs, Leupold Deltapoint sight, etc.) but I have some questions about the lever and butt stock. I am not a fan of the excessive amount of wood they've incorporated into the fore-end and am already in the process of shaving it down to fit the width of the reciever and the already slender portion of the fore-end under and infront of the barrel band. As for the butt stock, I'd like to convert the pistol grip into a straight grip, for a quicker, handier feel.

In taking some measurements and running some lines, this looks to be a possible conversion, taking the line of the rear of the stock and just running it foreward until it meets the rear of the reciever, basically lopping off the bottom portion of the pistol grip. Does anyone know if this is a plausible thing to do? If it is, I will obviously (or at least I think obviously) need to replace the curved lever with a new one. If the stock is converted to a straight grip, will, for example, a WWG aftermarket Big Loop Lever fit the new setup?

I hope you guys can help me out and guide me in the right direction. This will be an ongoing project that I'm not in any hurry to finish, as long as it gets done by the end of the summer, (with enough time for me to work up loads) I'll be happy.

Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated.
 

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To instal A straight stock you will need A straight lever and straight trigger plate and stock. The conversion can be done with origional parts if you are real handy. Not sure I would do this with A new rifle.
All this info can be found in the gunsmithing section.
Good luck with your project.
 

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That pistol grip is a tad nicer when it's snowing and slippery outside.. but you can do the conversion I don't know if the parts are available in stainless to to it right..

Detailed instructions are in the Reference Library as Gator has said
 

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You can change the trigger, and I assume you mean ejector rather than extractor (I wouldn't do either of these changeouts, but that's just me), but I would stay away from changing springs. More FTF problems result from trying to put in lighter springs than anything else.

As far as conversion to a straight stock, if that's what you want, you'll probably have to trade someone for a straight lever and trigger plate. Marlin won't sell you a trigger plate, they have to be sent to a FFL dealer. You'll need a straight stock which is easier to find. All-in-all, you'll have more in the conversion than the gun cost new. I'd suggest selling the gun and finding something that suits you better. Obviously the 336SS isn't that gun.
 

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I think you have a good enough gun already. That extra stuff ain't gonna matter much at all. I've done most everything
you can do to these rifles and owned most every version. The only diff in feel is a CB. The trigger and ejector don't do much of nothing. Actually, if you use the factory sights correctly, aftermarket sights don't add anything either.

Gatorskinner had an excellent quote in another thread:

"Same gun dressed diferently. Which do you like better?"
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey thanks a bunch guys. I really appreciate the help so far and any additional tips would be great. I'll be sure to post pics when its finished.

In regards to the trigger plate, would the trigger plate off of a new 1895GS .45-70 straight grip fit this 336 with little or minimal smithing?
 

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ADK MAN said:
In regards to the trigger plate, would the trigger plate off of a new 1895GS .45-70 straight grip fit this 336 with little or minimal smithing?

Yes

You could buy an 1895 GS swap the parts around then sell the GS.
you may have some fitting on the 336 lever to have it work properly on the 45-70 though.
 

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The 336 lever probably will not work unless it is the same style as the 1895. Better check this. You are going to have a $1000+ 336 when you are done.
 

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I too prefer a straight stock and am considering a similar conversion for my 336SS. Providing you can find someone to swap the parts with, the only cost to you should be one-way postage. I did the same thing recently with a XLR.

Another option is to just add a straight stock and modify your existing tang. Its a pretty straighforward mod on a stainless gun, just saw off the extra metal and buff it back out. Straight levers are easy to find and a 1895 lever should fit your 336 with very little effort.

I also have a 1895GS and the parts are completely interchangeable between the two guns because my 336SS has the same groove milled into the lever to clear the 45/70 rim. My guess is the newer guns will have this feature, one less part for Marlin to stock that way.

Whatever you do, remember its YOUR gun so whatever mods you want to do then so be it. But I'd shoot it some first to see if you need all the aftermarket add-ons though. I have a WW trigger on one gun but I can't see $80 worth of difference between it and a regular trigger.
 

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Just before the New Haven plant stopped doing this sort of work I sent them a 336c in 35 Rem. and had the straight stock conversion done. I really like the rifle, but as HAWLG says you'll end up with too much money in the rifle. I'll have to hunt this little rifle the rest of my life to justify the expense involved.
We were fortunate to have Marlin repair at the time. They would do a number of custom conversions as long as they had the parts for the job. I asked several times if they would do the straight stock conversion to my 336SS. they never had the parts available for the job. I suppose all the parts for this were dedicated to production.
I also had a cowboy 30-30 conversion done and they outdid themselves as it has some beautiful wood and a super barrel. I can't help myself, I've got to shoot each firearm that is in my collection. The 30-30 Cowboy just might be the best shooting 30-30 that I've ever fired, and that's been with iron sights. No telling how good it would shoot with a scope, but I'll never bring myself to mark the top of the receiver with a scope base.
Guzziac,
Richard P.
 

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Update to include pic's.
Guzziac
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks again for all the insight. Gonzo thats definately the look I'm going for. And kingstrider, I hadn't considered lopping off that extra steel and making it fit a straight stock (instead of purchasing/swapping a new trigger plate/tang) but that doesn't seem to be that bad of a job.
 
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