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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Brownell's is out of stock on the triggers. If they have the hammers, I can't find them. I'll try Numrich and Ebay. Thanks, fellas.
 

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Jim-
this thread contains very good info on Marlin 336 trigger jobs and how they are done
(the right way).
The same info could be used to reverse one.
You will need some needle files.
Why not try to save your parts? What have you got to loose?
Try it, and make double sure it's safe.
I've been able to do it before using the pics and info in this thread.

http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/basic-triggers/72679-sear-fix-lighten-trigger-pull.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I found some good information.
Post #10 in this thread- http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/basic-triggers/171385-trigger-pull-too-light.html#post2130296

"If you can set the hammer and hit the buttstock nice and hard on the ground and it doesn't go off it probably just needs new springs. If it does hammer or sear needs replaced."

I ran the test and the hammer did not release. That begs questions about the springs. What are the design weights of the springs and where do I get them?
 

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Ol'Jim,

As I have said I picked up the twin to your '52 back in May and just like yours the trigger was "scary light", less than a pound I'd guess. All I had to do was touch it and she went off. The place I bought it from made sure I was aware of the trigger before they sold it to me.

So I spent a couple hours one day regrinding the hammer sear which Bubba had ground to just a nub. The best I got was 2 1/2 pounds, still too light on a woods rifle for me. Gun Parts had the correct hammer in stock at the time but having just spent all my loose change on the rifle I had to wait for the next payday. Well some son of gun bought the last hammer before payday arrived.

I check eBay and there was one for 40 bucks, a bit steep I thought but a few days later someone listed one for $18.99 and free shipping. I pounced on that one and that fixed the problem in about 15 minutes. It's just a shade heavy at 5 pounds but I'll leave it like that until I do some more shooting with it and then adjust if I feel the need.

Not saying it can't be fixed, just saying in the end why not have it right and with less time dinking around!
 
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I found some good information.
Post #10 in this thread- http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/basic-triggers/171385-trigger-pull-too-light.html#post2130296

"If you can set the hammer and hit the buttstock nice and hard on the ground and it doesn't go off it probably just needs new springs. If it does hammer or sear needs replaced."

I ran the test and the hammer did not release. That begs questions about the springs. What are the design weights of the springs and where do I get them?



I don't agree with that post 100%...
Cutting the main spring and bending the return spring is not an
effective way to reduce trigger pull, and usually creates more problems
than it fixes.
If you read that thread further, you will see what I'm talking about.

The only way to fix your light trigger is to figure out what was done
to make it that way.
To lighten trigger pull on a 336 one either files the hammer hook,
file the sear, and some cut the main spring...
If your spring hasn't been cut you don't need one.
You should be able to look at it and tell.
And if you do need a replacement main spring,
I'd recomend a factory spring and not that kit.
But to each his own...
 

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If all you need is a factory spring ive got some laying around that I replaced to lower the pull on some of mine. PM me if you find that's what you need I will give you one.
 

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The springs I have are off rifles from the 80's don't know if that's the same as ones from the 50's.
 
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