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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought this gun used from a member here. I took it to the range(50 yards) and I kept hitting high even when I had the rear sight on its lowest notch. Probably 6 inches high still. I am going to scope the rifle but I want iron back ups. I was going to use my xs lever rail and peep but have decided to sell it instead. Is there anything I can do to make my factory sights functional? I am red/green color blind and I love the way my eyes pick up the brass bead on these marlins in hunting conditions. Does my front sight need to be taller or shorter? If shorter can I file the bottom of it? Can I buy a different sight for up front preferably something with a brass bead? Any help greatly appreciated.
 

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What's your zero distance going to be? If it's 100 yards, you want it to be a bit high at 50, but definitely not 6" high.

For a gun that is shooting high, you'll need either a lower rear sight or a taller front sight. Most folks just go with a taller front. First thing you'll need to know is the height of your current front sight. If you have a front sight that is dovetailed into a ramp, as in my 1894 44 mag with its 20" barrel, just tap the front sight out of the dovetail on the ramp with a brass or wooden punch and measure the height, top to bottom. You can order bead fronts at Midway or Brownell's. For a gun shooting that high, I'd probably order two sizes up. As to the width of the sight base, most Marlins that use a ramp take a 3/8" base width.

I do prefer a blade front for the sake of accuracy, as sold by Skinner. With a blade front, just order a bit taller than you need and file down as needed (can't do that with a bead or FO front, of course). For my 1894, 44, with 20" barrel, for instance, Skinner recommends a .450" with one of their peeps, but you won't need to go that high with factory open sights. Skinner also has some nice instructions for installing a front.

One other thing. From experience with my 1894 in 44 mag, I can tell you that the gun will shoot high if you rest the forearm directly on the bag with no support with your offhand when shooting at the bench. You'll get a lot of bounce off the bag with such a light little gun in a 44 and it will shoot quite differently than when shooting, offhand. I prefer to rest the forearm in my left hand, griping it in the same way I would when shooting, offhand, and then resting my hand on the bag. As a check, you might want to try some offhand work to see if it makes a difference in POI.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks very much for that info. I was shooting off a lead sled. I am going to head back to the range and shoot at 25 yards. If that doesn't help me I am going to order a new front sight that is taller. You were a wealth of info.
Thanks again,
Bar7mag
 

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I bought this gun used from a member here. I took it to the range(50 yards) and I kept hitting high even when I had the rear sight on its lowest notch. Probably 6 inches high still. I am going to scope the rifle but I want iron back ups. I was going to use my xs lever rail and peep but have decided to sell it instead. Is there anything I can do to make my factory sights functional? I am red/green color blind and I love the way my eyes pick up the brass bead on these marlins in hunting conditions. Does my front sight need to be taller or shorter? If shorter can I file the bottom of it? Can I buy a different sight for up front preferably something with a brass bead? Any help greatly appreciated.
With a bead, you're pretty much stuck with the manufactured height, there's no filing to height possible. Good news is that there are a LOT of heights manufactured. Brownell's would be the first stop, Midway maybe the second. Brownell's has a sight height calculator in the paper catalog, I believe they now also have an online one. Or you can call up their tech line and find out what you need for proper height. You will need measurements from front sight to rear, barrel diameters at both spots, ramp height and current front and rear heights. A cheap set of digital calipers and a tape meaure are what's needed.

You WILL need to file the base to fit the dovetail, just file the bottom until the base goes in about half-way and push it until it lines up. DON'T file the ramp dovetail! If you've got the factory front ramp, you'll need the Williams Front Sight Pusher tool or the equivalent, beating on that ramp with a hammer and punch may strip the screws, there aren't many threads engaged in the barrel.

I've found the fiber fronts to be a little fragile, I've replaced a few inserts after bumps and it doesn't take much to break one. Brownell's also has bulk fiber in a kit with various colors. Red never has worked for me, I use either yellow with green or orange with green. Brass beads don't work for me for regular hunting in the woods, they just don't stand out. Far better is a 3/32" ivory bead, stands out in low light. You can get small and large beads in both brass and white from Brownell's, I believe Marble's still makes both types. Just about everyone has some sort of fiber fronts now, some have dropped any other types. There are various base widths depending on application, I believe you'll want the narrow width with the factory ramp, measure it before ordering.

There was a time when you could order a few front inserts of various sizes fairly cheaply, they're a lot higher now and it's best to get one close to what you need instead of trying out several to see what works best.

Stan S.
 
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