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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
The Trigger Guard screw holes were next. Both sets of holes - original and the new ones were both stripped out. The area around the holes had deteriorated and both ends of the Trigger Guard cavity were broken and cracked.

The span of the damage on both ends was right at 3/4'. Drilling a 3/4" hole from the end of the Trigger Guard cavity over the top of the screw holes would eliminate the screw holes, the breaks, the damaged wood and the filler that had been used.

Also the rear repair insert dowel would help secure the crack running through the rear screw damage. The front dowel eliminated the break on the front end of the Trigger cavity.
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Inserted and glued two 3/4" Walnut dowel pieces. The new dowel inserts made the ends of the Trigger cavity solid again.
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Then drilled the new Trigger Guard holes. The blue tape was put in place before some stain was applied.
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Before drilling the holes a new fitting of the Trigger Guard was needed. Had to change the shape somewhat to make the Trigger Guard fit flat on the stock. The ends had to be flattened out some and the entire Trigger Guard had to be elongated some.
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Wrist Break area left. Large break on the left side of the Receiver area was scotched open and filled with glue then clamped for about 8 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Last but not least in the major repair group was the Wrist Break in the bolt cavity.

The break would not open. So the line of the break was drilled ... filled with glue ( used Elmers Wood Glue, the Elmers squeezes into the cracks easier than Epoxy when the dowel is inserted and the pressure is applied).

Hole drilled ... extends about 1/4" beyond the end of the break.
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Oak dowel inserted ...
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Dowel cut off and in place ...
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Ready for final sandings and prep. The Trigger Guard dowels are to be stained and the new Butt Stock end replacement are to be stained. The rest of the stock will be natural color with Tru-Oil only finish.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Did have some good things come up.

The S102 rear sight cleaned up nicely. It is functioning as it should. Both windage and elevation screws are free and work properly.
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The front sight yielded a small surprise. It was really dirty and crusted over. Upon cleanup found the signature Mossberg brass bead on the sight. It is in great shape and is still solidly in place.
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... is a series of posts so informative and interesting that I would be willing to contribute to the purchase of other badly battered guns in order to see how you bring them back to life :) !
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
The stock work is finished. Used a scrap piece of Walnut, some scrap walnut dowel leftover pieces, a piece of a leftover oak dowel, an old Butt Pad laying around and some Butt Pad screws in the extra screw magnetic pan. I also found a couple of wood screws in the leftover "new screws" keeper jar to be used in the Trigger Guard.

The Trigger Guard screw repair dowels and the new Butt Pad extension were stained with a Walnut stain. End grain vs Surface grain and 2 different woods. Not near the same color. The rest of the stock is Tru-Oil Finish.

The interior of the stock was scraped and sanded. Removed all of the old flaky and deteriorated wood. Chiseled, filed and reprofiled as many surfaces as I could to make them flow and transition properly. Tried to give it a factory shape and surface appearance.

Here is the result of the repair and refinish effort
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Had a "fun time" trying to get the bolt handle cut out reshaped and get a finished - not just a hole in the stock look. Had to get a somewhat symetrical shape but not waller the space out too large and have it look out of place and out of proportion.
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The flaked out piece just in front of the bolt handle cutout repaired well.
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Three repairs in this picture. 1) The split in front of the trigger cavity (trigger guard screw hole in the repaired split). 2) The midline split in the bolt cavity (drilling and oak dowel repair) 3) Large breaks on the left side of the Receiver area.
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Both nose breaks shown here. Didn't stain the dowel insert. Wasn't going to be able to get it to stain dark enough and it won't show after the barrel is back in place. Kinda nifty to be able to see the repair but not have it impact the appearance of the gun.
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Butt Pad replacement was way too large. Had to cut it down, shape / fit it and then refinish the edge.
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Pics cont. next post ...
 

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Discussion Starter #26
pics cont.
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The break repair here did real good. Both pieces fit back flush. Of course there was some edge wood missing from years of being cracked, moved around and the edges being hit and scraped. Repair surface is creamy smooth.
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pics cont. next post ...
 

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Discussion Starter #27
pics cont.
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Stock completed except for one thing. I have a set of Red/Green Mossberg Safety Position Buttons somewhere. Haven't located their safe keeping hiding place yet. If I can find them I will install those.

On to the metal ... have the small parts cleaned and polished. Working on prepping the barrel to be blued.

All of this time and effort on a FRANKENGUN ... LOL
 

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All that time and effort is PRACTICE! You can take the worst "beaters" and make them presentable.
The very reason I bought the $45 Stevens was so I could practice some of the things I have learned from you and the rifle had paid for itself many times over already!
Because of you I am now able to do a decent cold blue finish, something I couldn't do before. Thank you, sir!
 
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I feel your pain too. You came out cheaper. I coughed up 65 bucks for my Western Field rescue gun. And she now sits in the corner of the bedroom, forsaken and forlorn. I don't have the time or patience to do what you're doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
All that time and effort is PRACTICE! You can take the worst "beaters" and make them presentable.
The very reason I bought the $45 Stevens was so I could practice some of the things I have learned from you and the rifle had paid for itself many times over already!
Because of you I am now able to do a decent cold blue finish, something I couldn't do before. Thank you, sir!
If I have been of any help SIR - you are welcome ...

I feel your pain too. You came out cheaper. I coughed up 65 bucks for my Western Field rescue gun. And she now sits in the corner of the bedroom, forsaken and forlorn. I don't have the time or patience to do what you're doing.
Well if it is going to just sit and take up space - I'll take her off your hands ... send her on over ... lol

What model is it ?
 

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My old saying is"ANY working .22 is worth 50 bucks" (As is any working rifle) ret urn it to it's complete original self and do it and yourself a favor.along the way you may learn something.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
I had a question asked ... So I will answer it here just in case anyone else was wondering.

The inside of the stock has been Tru-Oil treated for future protection from oil soak and element damage. The outside finish on the FRANKENGUN has 8 apps of finish. Usually do 12 or more. But since this is kinda of a personal off hand project I made the decision to stop at 8 on this one. The inside surface has three. The barrel channel itself, as I always do, has the same number of apps as the surface.
 

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So, in your opinion it is worth putting a finish on the inside as well as the out side. I understand. It keeps the moisture out....
 
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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
So, in your opinion it is worth putting a finish on the inside as well as the out side. I understand. It keeps the moisture out....
I don't know if it is "my opinion" really. I have just always done it from the first stock I ever did.

Most all have oil and exposure damage. Flaking,cracking and oil soak are the norm. I just could not see leaving damage on a piece I was repairing. It just seemed half azzed to repair and treat the surface and leave hidden damage to be a problem later down the road.

I just figure the effort to do the internal wood is some insurance for a longer life for the stock. Hopefully it gives it some protection from oil, moisture and dry heat.

There is the distinctive possibility that the experts out there who are really in the know about this kinda thing think this whole exercise is a bunch of hooey.
 

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I always felt it was cheap insurance to seal the inlet areas on any stock with a coat of finish, like Tru Oil or a good wax, like Renniasance Wax. Keeping moisture and oil out of the wood isn't a bad thing at all.

rtjmac, I' not sure if the correct term for you is craftsman or artist, but I sure enjoy seeing your work.
 

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I learn from these posts almost every time.....
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I always felt it was cheap insurance to seal the inlet areas on any stock with a coat of finish, like Tru Oil or a good wax, like Renniasance Wax. Keeping moisture and oil out of the wood isn't a bad thing at all.

rtjmac, I' not sure if the correct term for you is craftsman or artist, but I sure enjoy seeing your work.
I am not sure if either term really applies but I am glad you enjoy my "muddling through" these projects. Thanks ...
 

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rjtmac, another great project. After meeting you, seeing your work up close and in person and viewing your posts here, I can honestly say if you had a gallery setup in your workshop and sold tickets, you would have a sellout every-time. You pull us in to your world and get our minds to imagining the possibilities of what can be accomplished. I hope to see many more of these, and also hope it inspires more members here to post their handi-work. Thank you for sharing with us.
 
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