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336CB in 38-55win
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Very nice work on the wood! Did you re-blue also? Looks like new! What year is it and what are you asking??
 

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That's some fine wood work. Nice rifle. Looking forward to the range report.
 

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Redid the buttstock on mine recently with some BLO. But I left some of the dents etc in, wanted to have it show character.
 

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Stopsign32v -
Nice job, but inquiring minds want to know - you described the finish as "oil finish hand rubbed". Please, what's the oil finish? Boiled Linseed oil? Tung-oil? Help us out here.
Thanks!

WYT-P
Skyhunter
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Stopsign32v -
Nice job, but inquiring minds want to know - you described the finish as "oil finish hand rubbed". Please, what's the oil finish? Boiled Linseed oil? Tung-oil? Help us out here.
Thanks!

WYT-P
Skyhunter
Tung oil with other mixtures in it. This isn't straight oil. But the finished products cannot be caught on camera. It has a dull yet shimmer to it. If you want to keep the 'wet' look to it you can apply Tru-oil to basically seal the look. However you have to know what you are doing. Too much and it looks like varnish and not enough and you will get an uneven coat.

I still need to but some Wolff springs for the action and a safety delete for the Marlin that goes to this set but here is an example of a stock that has the same oil coating as above, however I sealed it with Tru-oil.






And here is what it looked like from the factory. Amazing grain in the wood but the factory finish dulls and hides it's glory.



Also if you have damaged wood and know what you are doing you can hide it almost into a natural blemish.

Here the previous owner dropped it and gouged the wood.



 

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Kudos for beautiful work and excellent photos.
 

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perfect!
 

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Purtie!! Nice work
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've had quite a few PMs about doing finishing work on some of the users' stocks. Guys, this is a process that takes MONTHS to do and I can really only do it durning the hot months. I have tried to do it durning the colder months and the process doesn't work near as well. Heat is really the key to get the oil soaking in deep as well as patience. I will help anyone with doing it but I'm not willing to accept any work. Apologies to everyone.
 

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I can appreciate what you have done there, looks really nice. Last winter I restored a 1907 Lefever shot gun, redid the blueing and converted the stock from a pistol grip to a straight stock, also cut down the beaver tail fore end to a splinter style. Then came the sanding which seemed to take forever to get the shape right and all the shaping marks smoothed out. Then came 15 hand rubbed coats of oil rubbed down with ultra fine steed wool after every 3 or 4 coats after drying for several days between coats. The transformation was amazing. Took all winter but was worth it. You could do it the easy way and just put a coat of Poly on something, but it takes passion to spend months and hundreds of hours to do it the old way. It is a labor of love.
 

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Thanks for the response and you did one excellent job! NOTHING beats that hand-rubbed oil finish. IMO!

WYT-P
Skyhunter
 
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