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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My model 6660 (same as model 60) will not feed. It's the old style with the split feed ramp. I would like to update it to the newest version feed ramp and spring ejector but can't find the kit anywhere. I guess I could buy a whole action assembly on eBay but I'd rather just buy the update kit with the feed ramp, lifter and spring. Anyone know where I can find that kit? I've tried Brownells, Numrich, Midway, and McCarbo. No luck.
 

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The parts for the kit is about $75 or $80... I might have it... Let me know with a PM if you want me to dig the stuff out...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Going to try a new inner mag tube. I think the weak spring in mine might be part of the problem. Also going to replace the recoil spring. If these don't help I'll be looking for either the ramp upgrade kit or the whole action assembly. The new tube and spring should be here in a few days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
JB weld the halves together and smooth the feed ramp?
That's the thing that kind of baffles me. The two halves are tight together and the feed ramp seems very smooth. I'm hoping the magazine tube spring is weak and the reason it's not feeding properly. Marlin used this old style feed ramp for almost twenty years so they can't be that bad of a design. I could understand it if it was worn out but it looks like it's in excellent condition. Maybe a little JB Weld on the seam and filed smooth would help. Thanks for the suggestion.
 

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That's the thing that kind of baffles me. The two halves are tight together and the feed ramp seems very smooth. I'm hoping the magazine tube spring is weak and the reason it's not feeding properly. Marlin used this old style feed ramp for almost twenty years so they can't be that bad of a design. I could understand it if it was worn out but it looks like it's in excellent condition. Maybe a little JB Weld on the seam and filed smooth would help. Thanks for the suggestion.
I had a similar issue, i thought and the internet was sure it was the feed throat. I ended up taking it to a smith, and the lifter arm was the problem. It had been tweaked to the side enough that it would cam a round out before it could seat. Idk if that's your issue too, but it might be worth looking at.

On a seperate note i want to replace my tube follower and spring as well, but the pin is stuck in reel good. Im afraid to hit it any harder till i have a replacement tube on hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The inner mag tube and recoil spring came today. So after replacing them I headed to the range for testing. This almost did the trick. The rounds fed until the last round. It didn't matter if I loaded 10 rounds, 12 rounds, or 17 rounds into the magazine, the last round would not feed and bind up under the feed throat. It would also mangle the round by putting a gouge into the bullet or bending it over at an angle from the casing. See pictures. Why would that last round always have a problem? If it was the feed throat it seems to me that most of the rounds would not feed, not just the last one. I'm wondering if that pointy end on the mag tube plunger does something to that last round by not feeding it in straight. Some of the other plungers on model 60 mag tubes have squared-off plungers. Was this a design improvement? Why would they still sell the pointy ones if that's the case? I'm happy that it's feeding better now but baffled about that last round jamming up. Any ideas?
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The inner mag tube and recoil spring came today. So after replacing them I headed to the range for testing. This almost did the trick. The rounds fed until the last round. It didn't matter if I loaded 10 rounds, 12 rounds, or 17 rounds into the magazine, the last round would not feed and bind up under the feed throat. It would also mangle the round by putting a gouge into the bullet or bending it over at an angle from the casing. See pictures. Why would that last round always have a problem? If it was the feed throat it seems to me that most of the rounds would not feed, not just the last one. I'm wondering if that pointy end on the mag tube plunger does something to that last round by not feeding it in straight. Some of the other plungers on model 60 mag tubes have squared-off plungers. Was this a design improvement? Why would they still sell the pointy ones if that's the case? I'm happy that it's feeding better now but baffled about that last round jamming up. Any ideas? View attachment 890488 View attachment 890490 View attachment 890493
Is it doing the same with copper plated rounds? I was running aguila hv plated and it was running smooth as butter. I switched to some cheap cci blazer and about every other reload or so a round would shave the nose or jam up.

It looks like the round isnt making its way up the ramp. Can i see a pic of the pointy end of your follower? My 18 rd has a solid lump on the end of a thin stem. Side note how hard was it to punch out the pin on the mag tube? I can't get mine to budge and my follower is on it's last legs. I have a brass replacement but can't get the end cap off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I bought a whole new mag tube assembly so I didn't have to take it apart. I did have to file down the pin so it would go into the outer tube and twist to lock. I'll try and get a picture of the follower tomorrow but it is definitely pointy and not blunt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here is a picture of the pointy follower compared to the flat face on one out of a Glenfield 75C. I decided to glue a cut-off 22 shell over the pointy end to see if it makes a difference with that last round. Hopefully testing later today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That seemed to do the trick. Had a stove pipe on the third round (mini mags) but smooth sailing after that. I loaded varying amounts of rounds into the mag tube and all last rounds functioned perfectly. I think I've got a fully functioning rifle now but will continue to test it. I'll be more confident once I'm able to put several hundred rounds through it. Hard to believe that they would make a pointy follower for pointy bullets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wasn't that hard to remove the pin that holds it all together. You just need a solid backup with a hole so that you can drive the pin out of the tube and knurled
knob while it's supported. It's mostly the knob that is holding the pin. It will take a few good solid wacks to get the pin to move. The pin is splined so it's got a pretty good grip.
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You need to make sure the tube is supported underneath both sides of the pin. Is the tube denting on the top side where you're hitting it or on the bottom side? Maybe try a little heat from a propane torch. The brass tube is not holding the pin, it's the shaft of the knob that's holding it.
 
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