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Discussion Starter #1
The firing pin broke on my 80s vintage 39A. Midway USA has one for $22.00; description says it may require "fitting". Cursory search didn"t turn up anything else that was in stock. Anybody have any advise on the Midway pin, or another option perhaps?
 

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I don't know if yours is new enough that it has the rebounding hammer, or if the firing pin differs from the early ones, but the fitting is gravy train.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
BTW: Dry firing breaks `39 firing pins.
(learned that the way as early as `59)
It broke plinking at plastic bottles. I had a misfire, then the lever wouldn't close. At that point I put it in the truck and brought it home. Took it down today and the broken end fell out when I slid the bolt out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Plus one on Wisner's they have stepped up on out of production parts and I have always had good luck with them.
I just ordered one from Wisner's (leaving three in inventory-4/28/20) and found them very easy and pleasant to deal with. Before you order, though, you may want to call between 1:00 and 3:00pm, Pacific Time, when their technical expert is in. You'll want to make sure that the firing pin you're considering is the right one for the year of manufacture of your model 39.

In my case, I intended to buy the part listed as A39A-32 for my 1973 Golden 39-A. It turned out that that firing pin is for pre-1972 39-As. I thought I was dead in the water, but he went on to say that in 1972 Marlin added a retaining screw to keep the firing pin from falling out when the disassembled bolt is turned upside-down. I told him that my rifle didn't have that screw even though it was manufactured after the change. He explained that Marlin continued to use the old bolt/firing pin combination until they ran out, so I had one of those.

I'd also purchased a firing pin from Midway, and had been trying to find a better one. The Midway firing pin is thinner than the original, so there's play when installed in its groove in the bolt. I ended up doing the fitting myself after my local gunsmith did an incomplete job (but charged me $30). The striker end of the pin was longer than the original, and I had to open up that space between the two sideways projections on the pin (When I dropped-in the intact pin when it first arrived, the lever wouldn't cycle at all.).

I was lucky enough to have both parts of the original firing pin, and I super-glued them together for comparison. I just worked very carefully and slowly with some small diamond files until the new pin matched the original. When I installed it, the action cycled like new, and it fires just fine. (It accounted for two snowshoe hares this winter.)

I never intentionally dry-fired that rifle, but I had used spent cases as snap-caps. Now I'm using 4-6-8 X 7/8" plastic drywall anchors, and they drop into the chamber like a .22 round. That hard hammer blow of the model 39 bashes the daylights out of them, so I eject and rotate them after every two snaps of the hammer. I typically get six shots out of one before the rim starts to separate from the anchor body.

I hope this helps.

Best,

Hare Splitter

PS: I should have added that Brownells shows a model 39 firing pin as a special order. I ordered one, and it's the wrong part. I've been working with them on this, and I hope they'll find a supplier of the correct part. In the mean time they kindly directed me to Wisner's. -HS-
 

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Follow up: I received that firing pin from Wisner's, part A39A-32, for my 1973 Golden 39-A. The workmanship is excellent. It dropped right into the bolt; it fit well without gunsmithing; and it functioned perfectly. I couldn't be happier.
 
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