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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

I just recently purchased 2 marlin lever actions (1894C & 1895GBL) 4 months ago and I am new to the forum. You have some great information here.

Lets just say that these 2 guns particularly the 1894C were a bit rough coming out of the box. Fit and finish were fine but action and trigger pull were not what I expected.

The 1894C was for my kids 9yrs and 12yrs so this was a problem. I decided to take both rifles to a local gunsmith who does cowboy action. He put a 3 lb trigger pull and slicked up the actions. The kids can now cycle the lever and manage the trigger.

The only problem I am getting is that I get a few misfires in both rifles with some hand loads he did for me as well as different types of factory load. Round fails to fire with first hammer strike, but usually fires if I cock the hammer a 2nd time. I never fired the rifle before having the action and trigger adjusted.

A Wolf reduced power spring kit was installed for the trigger pull. Does this affect the power in which the hammer strikes the firing pin?

Here is a picture I recently took at the range. The round on the right did not fire the first time but when I put it back in the chamber it fired with the 2nd hammer strike, any thoughts? All 3 are cowboy loads the gunsmith made up for me.





Thanks

Del
 

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Hey there delboybc -- Welcome to Marlin Owners. I'd be willing to bet at least two nickels that if you put a regular Marlin mainspring back in your rifle if will go bang every time. It's an easy installation. Check out the reference section and you'll likely find some help making the switch. Hope this helps. Best regards. Wind
 

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A reduced power hammer spring gives a lighter "hit". We run into this in Cowboy Action all the time. Some brands of primers are harder than others. Either do it yourself or go back to the gunsmith, install a thin washer behind the spring, this will give it a little more hit but not make it too hard for your boys to work the lever. Wind is correct, if you go back to the original spring, you will get more reliable ignition, but then you are back to the stiff lever.
 

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delboybc said:
Hi all

He put a 3 lb trigger pull and slicked up the actions. The kids can now cycle the lever and manage the trigger.

A Wolf reduced power spring kit was installed for the trigger pull. Does this affect the power in which the hammer strikes the firing pin?

Here is a picture I recently took at the range. The round on the right did not fire the first time but when I put it back in the chamber it fired with the 2nd hammer strike, any thoughts? All 3 are cowboy loads the gunsmith made up for me.


Thanks

Del
That reduced power spring kit is your problem. Remove it and put back the original Marlin mainspring and your troubles will be over. And ask the GS for your money back!

The washers will work, but I'd put the original spring back and get your money back!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the comments.

I tried 3-4 different types of factory ammo and had the same problem as the reloads, but some factory ammo was better than others.

From what people have written it sounds like if I have the main spring replaced that I will have more reliability when firing but the lever will be a bit stiffer. Will I still have the 3lb trigger pull?

I guess what I am asking is there different parts to the wolf reduced power kit for the hammer and the trigger mechanism. Can you install one without the other?
 

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The Wolff reduced power springs work well with a one piece firing pin for cowboy action.They tend to have misfires with the stock 2pc firing pins as they loose the power of the "hit" when transferred thru two pins.I would just add a small flat washer to preload the hammer spring a bit.If you reinstall the factory spring you will increase the effort to cycle the action and that will defeat what you are trying to do here.I custom tune my CAS rifles this way.
 

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If your reloaded cartridges are using rifle primers then a simple switch to pistol primers will likely fix the problem as well as replacing the hammer spring.

One of my 1894s will not fire consistently if I'm using small rifle primers. I use nothing but pistol primers in all my guns that take pistol cartridges... This includes the Thompson Contender in 22 Hornet. I actually saw an IMPROVED group size on a couple of the loads when I switched to pistol primers. No affect on the other loads' groups.

-Tim
 

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I have an 1894C and an 1894, both as well as all my other leaver action Marlins are using the Wolf reduced hammer spring and no ignition failures on any of them. Now they all have clean bolts internals and are properly lubricated.

I am not saying that just switching back to a factory power spring won't fix your ignition problem, but it will increase the trigger pull weight. What i am suggesting it that your internal bolt parts may be dirty with solidified lube, or something, slowing down the firing pin from the hammer strike. All things have to be considered when reducing spring weight.
 

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delboybc, welcome to MO!! My thoughts would be to go back with stock hammer springs, that will probably cure your misfire problems, the boys will soon be big enough to lever'em and they will love'em. Take care, John.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the great suggestions. I will be going on holidays for a couple of weeks and will chat with the gun smith when I get back. I will let you know how things go.

Is there anyway to go back to the stock hammer spring and still have a light trigger pull?


Del
 

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The Wild West Happy Trigger will get you most of the way on the trigger. I put those in all mine (except the 1050 336 Waffle Top) together with the Wolf reduced power spring.
 

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delboybc said:
Thanks for all the great suggestions. I will be going on holidays for a couple of weeks and will chat with the gun smith when I get back. I will let you know how things go.

Is there anyway to go back to the stock hammer spring and still have a light trigger pull?


Del
No not really.If you put the stock spring in you will go back to harder cycling and stiffer trigger because they are interrelated.You could have your smith put in a one piece firing pin from longhunter.com and be done with it.You will have an action you can cycle with two fingers and very little effort.
 

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delboybc said:
Thanks for all the great suggestions. I will be going on holidays for a couple of weeks and will chat with the gun smith when I get back. I will let you know how things go.

Is there anyway to go back to the stock hammer spring and still have a light trigger pull?


Del
Del -

Although the hammer spring definitely has an effect on the trigger weight, I found that by experimenting with the sear's angle (using a couple spare sears that I bought off of gunbroker) that I've been able to get all of my Marlins down to the 2 to 2-1/2 pound range using Swany's "Reduce your Marlin trigger pull" technique at the following link:
http://www.marlinowners.com/forums/index.php/topic,28361.0.html

Only one of my Marlins (the 357) has a reduced power hammer spring, and that's because it already had it when I bought it from it's previous owner. It only has an issue with rifle primers and I stick pretty much to pistol primers with it. The most difficult one to reduce was my 336MX. I was able to get it to 4 lbs pretty easily, but getting it to under 3 took quite a bit of experimenting with the sear angle. It would've been easier had I tried a reduced power spring, but I really wanted to keep the factory hammer spring in it due to using large rifle primers in the 30-30 rounds.

my .02,

-Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I just wanted to give you an update on how things went and thank everyone for their input.

I took the rifle back to the gunsmith and had it changed back to the original marlin main spring.

The rifle works great, I tried 3 different types of factory ammo and 2 different types of hand loads and every round went bang first time and chambered smoothly.

Even with the original mainspring the kids can cycle it no problem and we measured the trigger pull at 3.7 lbs.

I was a bit worried about the rifle when I first got it because it was hard to cycle and most rounds would not chamber smoothly (had to wiggle the lever, to ease them in), but I really wanted to keep it as it felt solid and would be good upgrade from the 22lr for the kids.

It seems the rifle was a bit rough coming out of the box but a bit of time at the gunsmith got it going great.

Sad that you need to do this with a new rifle but after talking with the gunsmith it seems like this is a very common occurrence with marlin and many other companies as well.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

Del
 

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delboybc said:
Thanks for all the great suggestions. I will be going on holidays for a couple of weeks and will chat with the gun smith when I get back. I will let you know how things go.

Is there anyway to go back to the stock hammer spring and still have a light trigger pull?


Del
There is no need to go back to the stock spring. Your gun is on the edge of ignition. Just a little more energy in the hammer strike will make it reliable. A washer or two behind the Wolff spring will give the hammer the energy it needs while increasing lever resistance and trigger pull very slightly. It's an easy and effective fix.
 
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