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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I love my 1984 336CS in .35 Rem. I think it's beautiful and I love to hunt and shoot with it. I put Millet 4X32 compact scope on it this past fall after lots of help and recommendation from this board. I've got a picture of it I want to post for you all to see sometime soon.

But, here's my problem. I was out doing a little shooting Saturday afternoon and I had seven cartridges in my pocket for my 336. I pulled the trigger on all seven and only 5 of them went off. Two were complete duds. I waited at least a minute before unchambering the rounds thanks to what I learned here on this forum.

But why didn't the rounds fire? The ammo was Remington factor loads of recent manufacture. I store it in a military ammo can in the garage. It had been in and out of the gun few times on hunting trips but no abnormal exposure to moisture or anything else. The gun had been fired several times since that ammo had ever been in the gun so there shouldn't have been any excess BreakFree CPL in the chamber that would have infected the rounds. I never noticed any oil on the outside surface of any cartridge that had been in and out of the gun. I checked the indentation in the primer on the rounds that did fire against some older spent cases I had saved. I couldn't see any difference.

I did replace a broken firing pin early this fall but I have fired about 50 rounds since then and never had a single mis-fire until the two on Saturday. The gun is in excellent condition and is very clean and well maintained.

I'm really thinking about going to a one piece firing pin. Don't you think that would go a long way toward solving the problem?

I have always hoped to be able to use the gun someday on hogs or black bear but the possibility of a mis-fire shakes my confidence in this gun.

What do you guys think?
 

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I don't have much experience with Remington Ammo. All the centerfire Remigton I have ever owned was used fairly soon after purchase.

I have had problems with some bulk packed Remington .22 that was stored in a similar fashion to what you describe. Still shouldn't be a problem. All the other ammo you have used since replacing the firing pin was that remingtion also or another brand?

Do you have another cetnerfire rifle to compare the depth of firing pin strike?

Did you pull the hammer back and try to fire the duds a second time?

The direction I'm going with those questions is towards the force of strike. If your hammer does not hit the pin hard enough you can leave a dent and still not fire. My very first reloads were 30-30 using the Lee beat it to death tool. I did not seat my primers well enough on a few rounds. What would happen the first attempt to fire would finish seating the primer and it would fire the second try. The force needed to seat the primer fully absorbed some of the hammer strike causing a misfire. you could have just enough hammer force to fire 99.??%of all factory ammo.

Last thing is more obvious if your rifle is OK, and it should be, look at the lot # on your ammo and never buy any again from that lot. They make millions of rounds per caliber and that translates into 10's of millions of primers to spark them. Your ammo could have been loaded with some bad primers. This is very rare but certainly possible.
 

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Kart29,
I'm with Bman, i think the issue is probably the "force of the strike." It is pretty unlikely that you would have 2 bad factory rounds in a box of 20. You could rule that out by buying another box of factor ammo and seeing what happens.

Last summer i developed the same problem with my 30/30. Figuring the problem out was a bit more difficult because I was using reloads and I at first assumed that the issue was the ammo because their was a dimple in the primer everytime I pulled the trigger. A friend of mine had a 30/30 with him and my rounds, even the ones with the dimples went off in his rifle.

In mine, at first it was an occasional round that wouldnt fire. Soon it became only the occasional round that would fire. The issue was a $15 main spring. A buddy of mine replaced and it shoots as good as new.
Pb
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did pull the hammer back and attempt to fire a second time...and a third time. Still no soap.

I already threw away the box to check the lot# All ammo I've fired since replacing the firing pin has been Remington green box purchased within the last six months.

I did compare the dimple in my .35 Rem cases to some shotgun shells I fired that same day. The shotgun primer dimple seemed to have a larger diameter and was more defined but the depth of each seemed very nearly the same.

A weak main spring, huh? Makes alot of sense that it would cause the problem. But it doesn't make alot of sense to me that a 20 year old gun would have a weak mainspring. For $15 I might as well change that at the same time I put in the one piece firing pin.
 

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Kart29, Your main spring can be shimmed up using two to three #10 washers behind the spring on the operating rod. I have seen a 336 in .35 with wood slivers in the spring and was a cause of misfire. I have made a single piece firing pin out of my two piece by brazing it in a small vee block and then filing it back using my lathe though for that purpose a drill would work. One other thing before you go through all that, check and see if the small flat spring in your bolt that holds the shorter pin down while the bolt is back could be hanging up or might be broke. I'm suggesting this because of the recent firing pin replacement you had done. The above one piece procedure I done because I lightened my main spring on my .32 to make the trigger lighter and would not fire all rounds unless I shimmed it back near original specs until I went to the one piece pin, then all was well. I would suspect a weak spring also as the Remington rounds are non plated and will go off with less pressure than the plated ones. Take it apart and check for burr and wear marks on the new pin and related items ie the bolt.
 

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I would like to know what happened to the original firing pin. The firing pins in these guns are stout and I've never heard of one breaking before. I would suspect the ammunition more than a problem with the gun but if it is a problem with the gun I would look at the replacement pin as a possible problem. I guess anything is possible but I doubt The hammer spring is the problem. The hammer springs are the same on all 94s, 336s and 95s and You can usually clip a coil or two off the spring and they will still fire. The hammer springs on cbc models have about two coils cut off and they work okay. Please don't clip any coils if you plan on hunting in an area where there may be critters big enough to eat you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The tip of the original firing pin just broke off The whole tip is what? about 1/4 o 1/3 of an inch long? The tip of my broke off to where it was then only about 1/8" long. Don't have any idea how it happened. I think it had to be either dry firing or sitting in a closet. Those are the only things I did with it.

I've heard that the Marlin 2 piece firing pin is kind of a weak link in this gun. That's been my experience.
 

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Kart29: Having owned a 35 Marlin for 45 years and repairing firearms for 24 years I would like to offer a few suggestions.

Dry firing is not the best thing for a Marlin and a broken front firing pin is not uncommon from doing so.

The 35 Remington cartridge has a very shallow shoulder that the cartridge headspaces on. When cycling ammo through the action while loading/unloading this shoulder can be set back and the result is a missfire as the cartridge is unsupported in the chamber. That is, the chambered cartridge will move too far forward and the firing pin cannot make sufficient contact with the primer to fire.

When you replaced the firing pin did you check the hole in the face of the bolt to be sure there were no burrs there due to the broken firing pin striking that hole? The front firing pin should move very freely within the bolt. If you slide the front firing pin forward so the point is through the face of the bolt it should slide back inside without resistance. The rear firing pin has to be disengaged while checking this out.

The earlier suggestion about the rear firing pin spring is very good too.

A weak hammer spring is something I have never witnessed; however, it is possible.

The Marlin is a fine firearm and your problem is more than likely a very simple one to remedy.
 

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I had a weak hammer spring and replaced it will a new one in my Win-94 as it was mis- fire about two rounds every box of shells ( 20 ), I was hand loading at the time and thought it was something I was not doing correctly in reloading so I bought a box of factory and it did the same but mis fired 4 out of the box, put that new spring in and has not missed a beat yet :D
might be something to try and it's a cheap fix!
 

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Here are a few more ideas:

First, and maybe foremost, there is an important reason Marlin rifles have a 2-piece firing pin, and that reason is safety. The 2-piece pin disables the gun from firing until the breechblock fully engages the breechbolt. Converting the firing pin to 1-piece by welding the 2-piece pin together negates that safety feature and increases the risk that a round could be fired with the breechbolt unlocked. Can you visualize the possible catastrophic results of that event? I can. I would not weld the pin.

If the ammunition is old, it is possible the primers are hard. Age and exposure to some of the chemicals used to make ammunition can alter properties of the primer and case metals. If the ammo is old, resign it.

If the ammo has ever come in contact with WD-40, the primers may be dead. WD-40 can penetrate where you don't want it and kill primers. Don't use WD-40 on guns unless you absolutely clean it all off before useing the gun. Never use WD-40 on ammo.

It's possible something got on/in the firing pin and/or spring when you replaced the pin. Make sure it's clean, and don't put CLP on the firing pin before assembly. CLP hardens to a dry residue that might just inhibit free motion of the firing pin parts.

Live well
 

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I have beat this subject to death on this board and the old Marlin Talk. I still have all the Rem factory duds sitting here at my desk lined up like soldiers as a constant reminder to never buy Remington ammo again. I not only had bad 35's (BTW 3 out of 1 box) but I also had bad 270 ammo, also Remington and 2 out of 1 box there. Both were purchased at the same time from the same shop. Contacted Remington with all the data including pics of the FP strikes at the primers, lot #'s etc and the reply was........................What Reply? Never got the courtesy of a reply. Screw Remington!
 

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Kart29,
Now that you got us all wondering what the problem is will you keep us posted on what you find out? My guess is I am right.
Pb
 

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I thought he said he found a broken firing pin??
 

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VTDW,
Maybe he did, I guess I thought he was talking about his previous repair before this problem developed.

Kart29 said,
"I did replace a broken firing pin early this fall but I have fired about 50 rounds since then and never had a single mis-fire until the two on Saturday."

Pb
 

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like big redhead says by converting the firing pin you are disabling a safety feature which is an essential safety feature and like rodsmith I have had more misfires with Remington ammo[new stuff]over the years than other brands.Unfortunately I like thier brass but with the exception of my 1895 SS none of my guns shoot it accurately so I buy it for reloads but I don't rely on it! shootrj2003
 

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pappa bear said:
VTDW,
Maybe he did, I guess I thought he was talking about his previous repair before this problem developed.

Kart29 said,
"I did replace a broken firing pin early this fall but I have fired about 50 rounds since then and never had a single mis-fire until the two on Saturday."

Pb
My bad! :oops: :oops: I will learn to read and comprehend some day.

Dave 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That's right, I did replace the firing pin some time ago and have fired at least 50 rounds with no problems between replacing the pin and developing this mis-fire problem.

Well, maybe I won't replace the firing pin with a one piece design.

I never put WD-40 in, on, or around my gun. It's great stuff for certain applications, particularly water displacement, but it's not much good for anything related to a rifle.

I did put BreakFree CPL all over the bolt and firing pin, so first I'll check to be sure it still moves freely and that the CPL hasn't gummed things up.

Then I'll check the rear firing pin spring to be sure it is seems to be operating properly.

Then, I think I'll also see if I can smooth up the side of my hammer with some 200 & 400 grit sandpaper as I can see lots of wear/friction marks on one side of it.

If I don't observe any obvious problems with the above steps I may add a washer or two behind the main hammer spring.

After that, if I have a recurrence of the problem I'll never shoot Remington ammo again.

If I still have a problem it will be off to the gunsmith.

If I do ever find the problem for sure I'll be sure to let everybody know exactly what I find out.

Thanks so much for all your replies! :!: :lol: :!: :lol: :!: 8) 8) 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update after disassembly, inspection, and re-assembly.

The BreakFree CPL may have been very slightly gummy and made the firing pin move a little sluggish in its slot, but nothing I would consider significant whatsoever. The firing pin did move in its groove merely by jiggling it from one end to the other.

I couldn't find any burrs, jags, or indicative wear marks on any of the parts.

The rear firing pin spring was in place right where it was supposed to be and seemed to be operating exactly as it's supposed to.

So, I still have no clue what could have led to the misfires. Just to be sure, I put two small washers behind the main spring and thereby increased the tension on the spring. I assume this will cause the hammer to fly forward with greater force. The downside is that the increased tension on the mainspring has made the action noticeably more difficult to cycle. I can definitely feel the difference both when the bolt is going back, forcing the hammer down, and when the bolt is going back forward for that slight spot where the back of the bolt passes across the face of the hammer again. I'm disappointed in that but if it will keep things from mis-firing I can learn to live with it.

If I don't have any more mis-fires for the next 100 rounds or so I may take the washers back out and see if the problem returns.

It looks like this is one of those things that is going to be pretty difficult to narrow down.
 

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Sorry to bring back such and old post but I have been having this problem too in the same firearm.

I guess I am not the only one. I was thinking of having it rechambered for .356 Win.

It seems like it might be a headspacing thing to me with this particular cartridge.

Anyone else have this problem?

Greebe
 

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"Anyone else have this problem? "

Yep. My .35 gives me 2 or 3 misfires out of every box of Rem. factory loads. At first it seemed to be only with Rem. factory loads as about a box and half of LE's didn't have a problem. I checked and smoothed the firing pins, smoothed the inside of the bolt and added washers to the main spring. Back to the range. In the last ten rounds of LE's 2 misfires. At the same time I had just started handloading some ammo for it. Shots 2 & 3 misfired. I have been handloading for about three years and never had a problemwith misfires in any other rifle.

I gave up on it for the time being as this was about a week before our opening day. After the holidays, I'm going to completely go through this rifle. It was bought as a project gun anyway. I'll let you know if I figure out the problem for sure.

Dave.
 
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