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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
X-ring- have you ever heard of a magazine caliber adapter? I found this on a web page for an outfit that sells mauser parts. when I talked to the guy h didnt really seem able to give me a definite answer but from what he described it is a metal box that fits inside the magazine well of a Mauser. I'm guessing to help them feed a particular type or size of cartridge better but the guy really couldnt say for sure. As you can see the site notes three different sizes but I wouldnt know what size to choose- if thats what they do... The reason Im interested at all is my effort to get an FN 300 action to feed a 250-3000 Savage case more effectively. I have modified the "claw" of the extractor slightly and that has helped but its sure dosent feed reliably enough for a quick second shot at a departing Coyote. There may be no solution...but Iwill hang on to the rifle no matter, its a legitimate one hole shooter even if it is a single shot. I have ordered a floor plate catch from them as I believe I questioned you about some time ago from them we'll see how that works. Thanks for any info you can provide. CL http://www.gun-parts.com/mauser/
 

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Clover leaf: Since X-Ring hasn't answered I thought I'd give you my 2 cents worth.

I have made magazine inserts for Mauser actions for use with 7.62x39 and other short or narrow cartridges. For the $6 that outfit is charging you can't go too far wrong! Give it a try. ~Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply Andrew- you were the next person I would have asked...but I figured you were too busy w/ all your .17 cal. projects lately too reply :D :D Lucky Man!! Not giving up on the 22WMR are you. (kidding)
Any way I think you're right... for the money I might as well give them a try. I will have to avoid the Drive through for a few weeks and save up the bucks. I will see what that floor plate catch for Dad's Mauser looks like and go from there. Thanks again for the reply and take care. CL
 

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clover leaf

I sincerely apologize for taking so long to respond; it's real busy in the shop these days with deer season close at hand.

I have done several cal conversions for Mausers and most times use a short follower and spring from Shooters Guide which also comes with a nylon spacer for the rear of the mag box. I'm not aware of any "inside the box" smaller boxes that would work unless you changed the follower to a more narrow one; say for a 6.5 Swede, in which case you have to be sure it is still wide enough to work with the rail configuration you have. What cal was your rifle chambered for to start with? Most of my conversions are made to larger cals inc the 300 mag but on occasion I have gone to a 22-250 and the like. Your extractor should be open enough to let the cart feed up under it as the bolt comes forward but still have a bit of tension so that it will not fall away before the empty case contacts the ejector. Most times getting the cut and polish right is a bit of problem for folks not doing it all the time. I'm not sure I have helped any but let me know if I can be of assistance in any way. Best regards,

xx

www.martincustom.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
X-Ring- Dont worry about not getting back. This is a strictly "for fun deal" its not like I'm paying you. I appreciate your input. I think you bring up a key point. I think I have the extractor about right. It was rolling over the brass on the rim of the case until I ground the lower part of the extractor back. Now the extractor comes down to the bottum edge of the case and then slopes out and away from the case toward the frame rial on the right hand side. It will usually pick up the first case (right hand side of the stack) but before the case rim gets seated or slid fully under the extractor it tends to pop out from under the right side rail and fall loose in the action or agle up too steeply to make the feed throat. The point of the bullet will then hit the area where the locking lugs seat rather than sliding into the chamber. The rail configruation as you mentioned, seems to be the issue from what I cant see. I assume the rail helps guide the cart forward and should also limit or guide it through its upward travel until it is fully under the extractor. I was hoping that this "calibre insert" might basically "narrow" the opening between the rails and give the cartrige more time as it were to get under the extractor. Dont know as I mentioned to Andrew for the price I might just give 'em a try but I see your point...a different follower might be required as well. Any other thoughts? Thanks again for your help. CL
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
X-Ring- Dont worry about not getting back. This is a strictly "for fun deal" its not like I'm paying you. I appreciate your input. I think you bring up a key point. I think I have the extractor about right. It was rolling over the brass on the rim of the case until I ground the lower part of the extractor back. Now the extractor comes down to the bottum edge of the case and then slopes out and away from the case toward the frame rial on the right hand side. It will usually pick up the first case (right hand side of the stack) but before the case rim gets seated or slid fully under the extractor it tends to pop out from under the right side rail and fall loose in the action or agle up too steeply to make the feed throat. The point of the bullet will then hit the area where the locking lugs seat rather than sliding into the chamber. The rail configruation as you mentioned, seems to be the issue from what I cant see. I assume the rail helps guide the cart forward and should also limit or guide it through its upward travel until it is fully under the extractor. I was hoping that this "calibre insert" might basically "narrow" the opening between the rails and give the cartrige more time as it were to get under the extractor. Dont know as I mentioned to Andrew for the price I might just give 'em a try but I see your point...a different follower might be required as well. Any other thoughts? Thanks again for your help. CL
 

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CL

I had the same prob on a conversion and a Swede follower wouldn't work for me. You're right about the rails being a guide for the case but most of mine were going to a larger one so the rails had to be opened. On the one that gave me fits, I came up with a solution that might help you also. I took a strip of flat spring steel (any metal will do but it's what I had on hand) and silver soldered it to the vert seperator on the follower. This pushed the first and third round under the rail a bit more when loading and kept it in the proper position untill it went into the chamber. I ground it to fit and stuck it to the follower with dbl sided carpet tape first to see if it was the right thickness and when it worked, soldered it in place. You can also use Black Majic from Brownells to glue it on but it wasn't available at the time I needed it. Be sure you have it correct before you use that stuff because lots of heat will be needed to remove and replace it. I left mine a bit tall and long when I soldered then ground it with a bench grinder to match the contour of the follower. The customer has never had a problem since. Maybe this will solve your problem. Good luck,

xx

PS If you ever have a desire to put a Winchester type 3 position Dakota safety on one of the new Chas Daly Mausers, better call me first, hehe......

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wow, I never thought about increasing the height of the "seperator" on the follower. That would effectively hold the cart in the horozontal position and under the rail a little longer giving the case rim a better chance to get under the extractor. Did it feed better form the left side of the magazine as well or did the increased height get in the way. It would seem that a cart from the left side of the Mag couldnt get under the extractor but mabye were not talking about increasing the seperator more than a 1/16th or two? Did you try and maintain the same slope and angle on the follower or is it advantagous to have it a little higher in the front? As for a three position safety...I'd love one but I gather there are some "issues" in fitting them to a Mauser?? :? :?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
One more question...did you solder the strip to the follower ridge vertically or with the strip of metal paralel to the follower and grind it back to the correct width for the cart? I can envision it working either way, but what little I know..... :) (could just get me in trouble) Thanks so much again for the advice. CL
 

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CL

I didn't increase the height of the seperator; only the width. My spring stock comes inn several thicknesses and I kept trying different ones untill the cart stayed when it needed to be untill the bolt caught it and moved it forward. I then cut an oversize pc and soldered it in place then used a bench grinder to cut it down on the top and ends to match the org; hence only the width was changed. Once the first case is in place. it moves the second to a position that the third will be in the proper place also and stay in place properly under the rail. If I remember right, the added strip ended being about 3/32 wide. If your added strip is too wide, it will move the first round so far under the right rail that the second round will not catch the left rail enough to stay in position. The test peices can be made of anything: wood, plastic or cardboard. Once the thickness is found, it's just a matter of finding or making the right shim from metal. After I got the thickness right, I heated the shim very hot (not enough to deform) and quenched it in water. Makes it glass hard and will resist wear forever. After soldering, just polish bright and you're done. The soldering will not heat it enough to take the hardness out. Best,

xx

www.martincustom.com
 
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