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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1980 Marlin 375. Very difficult to extract spent shells right after firing...Win Big Bore ammo and medium hand loads...takes several seconds before I can operate the lever.
Any ideas???
John
 

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Dirty chamber? Burr in the chamber? Overpressure rounds from too much crimp or untrimmed cases?

I would first start with the chamber by pulling the bolt and then use a chamber brush or a bore brush the size of the case. Lots of solvent, and maybe even chuck the brush up into a cordless drill/driver. Followed with a mop of suitable size and polish it a bit.

Any real cartridge isues I'll let somebody else with more reloading experience investigate. That's about all I can think of.
 

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Dirty chamber? Burr in the chamber? Overpressure rounds from too much crimp or untrimmed cases?

I would first start with the chamber by pulling the bolt and then use a chamber brush or a bore brush the size of the case. Lots of solvent, and maybe even chuck the brush up into a cordless drill/driver. Followed with a mop of suitable size and polish it a bit.

Any real cartridge isues I'll let somebody else with more reloading experience investigate. That's about all I can think of.

My thoughts prescicely.
People rarely clean a levergun the way they should.
This often results in gunk build up in the chamber.
Should be an easy fix.
 

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I always thought that bore brushes are too stiff?? I look at the bore in several of my rifles and they look like mirrors. All I do to clean my rifles is use a lot of Hoppes $9 solvent applied with a bore mop and let it sit overnight. My understanding is that Hoppes solvent properties work better if it stands over night. I do use Hoppes inside the chamber and scrub it down with a medium tooth brush. I wipe the bore and the chamber clean the next day. If I am not going to fire the rifle for away, I put a very light amount of oil down the bore and inside the chamber. VERY Light is key. Firearms can't swim (in oil)

I have had some problems with re-loads being difficult to eject, but factory ammo works fine. My thoughts were it was the reloads not the rifle. But then, I've been known to be wrong. What do you think?



Cheers!



Mike T.
 
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jrkpilot, welcome to the MO Family, from here in west central Mo. We nee some more info on your problem, is the Marlin new to you, had it for years and problem just started, have you cleaned the chamber well before, has the problem always existed and now getting worse. Some pictures would help, if you can get them posted. If you are not familiar with Marlin takedown check the gunsmith/cleaning sections, there are videos and verbal instructions there. Gunsmith's screwdrivers to disassemble your Marlin, keeps the screws and finish in good shape. Take care, John.
 

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Polish several cases, take black marker (Sharpie) and place line full length. Hand load single round lining line up with extractor cut for reference, fire round. Remove case and inspect looking for anything unusual.
 

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Welcome to Marlin Owners. Hope you get your answers to the problem.

If you have any Kroil or like penetrating oil soak a bore mop in it, then place it in your chamber for a day. Might be some embedded crud in there that will loosen up.

After lightly brush the chamber, then add some polishing compound to the mop and give it around 50 in and out strokes, avoid spinning at this point.

Clean and inspect chamber for dull spots. Shoot a round or two and see if it improves.

If you don't have the above a smaller say .30 cal bore brush with a few strands of 000 steel wool ran in and out will polish a chamber nicely.

Worse case scenario your chamber could have what is referred to as ringing. Caused by a previous overload. This should be apparent if you follow the polish the case instructions already given.
 

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All kinds. Enamored of their mechanisms!
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I've used brown Scotch-Bright pads for severely fouled or corroded chambers. Use with a tight fitting jag and drill motor if need be. The brown pads are finer than the green. AC
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wow, Fellas,

Thanks for all great ideas I'll try. Some history: I have owned and shot many 336's in the last 35 yrs. I also own a pristine 1955 SC model in .35 Rem ( my BabyDoll ) which is a tack driver ( Ballard ).
I just bought this minty 375 off GunBRoker cuz I just got the hots for my first "cannon" and it was kinda an oddball. It shoots great with much less recoil than I expected with 200's or 250's: Factory or reloads. ( feels just like my .35 with 200 gr. LeverEvolutions-which are wonderful).
I'll clean that chamber and report back. I have no worries. Thanks again for techniques I'd not heard of to date.
 

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Good luck again welcome to Marlin Owners and hope you get it all sorted out. They are a fun gun. Them .375s do shoot 250gn light cast loads quite well.
 

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What does your brass look like when you can finally extract it? Pictures would be a big help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
UPDATE !! I cleaned/polished the chamber as many have suggested above..Shot gun yesterday and the empties JUMP out of the chamber...did a nice, well neeeded cleaning while bolt was out....Thanks everyone!! John
 

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Did that include the Reloads or just the factory ammo?



Mike T.
 

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UPDATE !! I cleaned/polished the chamber as many have suggested above..Shot gun yesterday and the empties JUMP out of the chamber...did a nice, well neeeded cleaning while bolt was out....Thanks everyone!! John
What exactally did you use to clean/polish the chamber? How did you do it?
 

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I put gun grease on the spent shell and throw it back in the chamber.. you will see where its hanging up... unless the chamber is blown out and the cartridge is expanding...???? Any powder on the outside of the casing???

guess I should read ALL posts before posting.. Good for you... a minor fix... happy shooting
 
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