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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,
I am looking to purchase a Marlin 336 to shoot supersonic and subsonic hand loads using a suppressor (Form1/NFA approved and $200 tax paid) I am building. I currently have a Winchester 94, 1956 vintage and as much as I like it, setting up for a suppressor would require mag tube to be cut, front sight de-soldered, barrel removed and threaded, barrel re-installed, tap holes for moving the front sight ramp. Then, I need to acquire a taller front sight to clear my suppressor. I finally realized the old Pre-64 is not a good candidate for a suppressor, plus I hate to butcher it as the don't make them in USA anymore. In the end, this will come at a considerable cost. When complete, I still could not readily mount a scope on it, unless I get into an awkward side mount set up.

The Marlin 336 looks ideal to mount a scope to it and I wondered if anyone knows if the mag tube has to be cut down or if it can be threaded standard 5/8x24 without too much hassle? What would the cost be for a threaded setup?

As for picking up a new/used 336, what should I look for? Anything I should avoid? I am open to the new Remlins, so long as they mechanically work fine. For some reason, I really like beater guns that have a lot of battle scars on them and giving them some TLC and putting them to work. I really like 30-30 and reload a lot of cast boolits. Would a 336 be ok for cast? I assume I would need to slug the barrel and make sure I size about .001 or .0015 over. Is there a problem with Microgroove and cast? I have a bunch of 150gr FNGC boolits and I shoot 2MOA all day in my Model 94 with peep sights. Its fun to ring steel at 100yds. I want to hunt with my suppressor and it has been a fun journey to build my own.

Thanks!
 

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I shoot .309" cast bullets in my 1971 Marlin 30-30, plain base and gas check in a number of weights and they shoot very good groups at 100 yards.
 

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There are many different versions of 336's with different length barrels from 16-24 inches and longer, with magazine tubes being referred to in relation to the barrel as half-length, 3/4-length, and full-length. To make the answer even more "up in the air", ya gunsmith or skillled DIY type can also get replacement magazine tubes that are shorter or longer (or cut one down) as long as they'll still work with whatever system is used to join the barrel and magazine tube. The gunsmith that is going to thread your barrel could probably help you out with this, but there are so many different variations of Marlins over the years that I would probably hold out for finding the right one.

Also, I'd poke about some pawn shops and you'll probably find a nice 30-30 that will fit your needs. JM stamped guns are usually good, the first couple years of Remlins have had some trouble, and the recent new ones seem to be doing well. But like any gun new or used, give it a good examination. The Remlin barrel droop is probably the worst problem I've heard of, but some of the first Remlins had some other pretty bad QC problems that had quite a few threads in the rant section on here. For what it's worth, I have JM and Remlin 30-30's and they're both nice guns.

As far as scopes, there are lots of different ways to mount a scope. Most Marlins you run across will already be drilled/tapped to accept a set of scope rings and you just have to figure out what scope and rings you like which there are 1000's of different threads on here with the 'best' scope setup. It's really a personal preference, and you'll find just as many that don't like any scope either. Peep sights, 1-4x, fixed power, 3-9x, red dots, scout scopes, etc. all have their proponents. It's your gun, pick whatever you like that works for you.

As GaCop mentioned, cast bullets are great. Never shot them through a supressor, I'd like to hear more on if that's ok. I don't know why it wouldn't, but just curious.

Last thing, if you're wandering through a pawn shop and see a Marlin with a bunch of wavy lines across the top of the reciever, that's a 'waffle top'. They're not drilled/tapped for a scope and are kinda rare. You'd be back to your original problem with your current Winchester.

Good luck!
 

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Even though I don't own one, glad you decided not to cut on that pre-64 Winchester, somehow that bothers me, lol. I've read a few articles/posts in here about cutting down mag tubes on Marlins, and doesn't seem like too difficult an endeavor from what I recall, so maybe you should poke around in here some for them. I would think finding a somewhat beat-up 30-30 in a 336 fairly easy online or in a pawn shop for a fair/low price as a project gun. I don't shoot cast out any rifles currently, but have read some have no issues with the micro-groove barrel, others different, and some buying special sizes/dia for it, and again you should be able find some posts in here on that too. Maybe you could even consider buying a new ballard rifled barrel for it, so you could change it back if ever wanting to for selling and keep your suppressor for another later project...? Good luck to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the comments and tips. I was wondering if anyone could grab their 336 with the full length mag tube and measure from the muzzle to the front of the mag tube? From the pictures, it looks like the muzzle "sticks out" a little bit from the mag tube. There might be enough to thread without cutting the mag tube.
Thanks again.
 

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Mine are just at a half inch or a bit less. The end piece of the mag tube is the cap that holds the spring in. The cap is secured to the barrel with a screw and a new hole will need be drilled and tapped to move the cap further from the muzzle. The front barrel band may have to be moved, some are right at the end of the barrel, some are a couple inches back. If you have to move the barrel band you also need to cut a new groove for the barrel band screw to fit into. Then, the mag tube needs to be shortened to fit the new holes. Alternative...find an SC model with the 2/3 mag tube and all you need to do is cut the threads. There are also some house brand Marlins that came with a shorter mag tube, not that common but findable. You even could sacrifice a 336A with a 24" barrel if you lack compassion for us who dote on them. Actually, the same sentiment with the SC's. With all that it still seems easier than using a Winchester. Ever thought of a bolt gun or an AR? They may lack the cachet of a Marlin, but they are going to be easier to thread and nobody cares if you express yourself on them as they have no soul.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Standard threading is .6" length of threads on this. I could have an extension made so that the mag tube does not have to be cut. I have considered at bolt gun in 30-30. Savage made the 340/840. They are available, but not the nicest looking rifles in my opinion. I also worry about the strength of the action and the additional back pressure on a one lug bolt from the suppressor. I would imagine it would be fine with subsonic. I have also considered a break action single shot in 30-30. I like the cartridge and reload for it with lots of components so that is why I am tied to it. I also have load data that works real well both supersonic and subsonic so I don't want to switch. Too bad Remington does not make their 788 in 30-30 anymore!

Mine are just at a half inch or a bit less. The end piece of the mag tube is the cap that holds the spring in. The cap is secured to the barrel with a screw and a new hole will need be drilled and tapped to move the cap further from the muzzle. The front barrel band may have to be moved, some are right at the end of the barrel, some are a couple inches back. If you have to move the barrel band you also need to cut a new groove for the barrel band screw to fit into. Then, the mag tube needs to be shortened to fit the new holes. Alternative...find an SC model with the 2/3 mag tube and all you need to do is cut the threads. There are also some house brand Marlins that came with a shorter mag tube, not that common but findable. You even could sacrifice a 336A with a 24" barrel if you lack compassion for us who dote on them. Actually, the same sentiment with the SC's. With all that it still seems easier than using a Winchester. Ever thought of a bolt gun or an AR? They may lack the cachet of a Marlin, but they are going to be easier to thread and nobody cares if you express yourself on them as they have no soul.
 

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Never seen a lever action with a CAN on it but would love to see it and know how it shoots!!Keep me posted on this project I would like to see it when your done with it!!!!
 

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The Savage 340/840 also requires a side mount for a scope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes. I believe that the side mount does come back centered over the bore. I don't think this is true for a Winchester 94 with top eject, the scope must be mounted to the side to allow for top eject.
The Savage 340/840 also requires a side mount for a scope.
 

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Easiest way would be to buy an old 336 "SC" or "A" model as both have mag tubes that don't go all the way to the muzzle. On the other hand, these are somewhat more scarce rifles and to me it's a shame to cut them up. But since you say you like beater guns, maybe you could find one that isn't anything collectible and hack on it. Probably the SC would work better as it has a shorter barrel. The "A" has a 24" barrel and by the time you add a suppressor that is several inches to a foot long, it would be getting awfully long.

You mentioned shooting cast and while it can certainly be done with microgroove barrels (and done quite well) it seems to be just a little easier and takes less tinkering in the older guns with standard rifling.

On the silencers, have you by chance ever seen the videos where they use various oil filters (I believe from motorcycles, long and skinny) and a threaded adapter? First shot makes the hole in the end and the rest follow it. On 22's they are so quiet all you hear is the action cycling. On supersonic calibers, they are noticeably louder but still very well suppressed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think if I can get a hold of a beater 336 or a Glenfield I can fix it up and have it threaded to the mag tube. My machinist buddy can then make an extension that would thread on to allow the suppressor to clear the mag tube. This is what guys are doing these days. Should not be a problem.

Is the 336 action a strong one? Also, I am contemplating buying a new Remlin, as the prices on Marlins are ridiculous. People are really proud of them. Are new Remlins good to go? I don't care about fit and finish, just function....

On the oil filter, it does work, however it gets shot out and has to replaced by the manufacturer since the ATF made them serialize the filter to match up with the adapter. For the $200 tax stamp, I would rather build/buy something more substantial as you are stuck with it for a long time.



Easiest way would be to buy an old 336 "SC" or "A" model as both have mag tubes that don't go all the way to the muzzle. On the other hand, these are somewhat more scarce rifles and to me it's a shame to cut them up. But since you say you like beater guns, maybe you could find one that isn't anything collectible and hack on it. Probably the SC would work better as it has a shorter barrel. The "A" has a 24" barrel and by the time you add a suppressor that is several inches to a foot long, it would be getting awfully long.

You mentioned shooting cast and while it can certainly be done with microgroove barrels (and done quite well) it seems to be just a little easier and takes less tinkering in the older guns with standard rifling.

On the silencers, have you by chance ever seen the videos where they use various oil filters (I believe from motorcycles, long and skinny) and a threaded adapter? First shot makes the hole in the end and the rest follow it. On 22's they are so quiet all you hear is the action cycling. On supersonic calibers, they are noticeably louder but still very well suppressed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Old Teddy did not like to disturb his aristocrat neighbers when he was out taking care of varmits on his property. So he put a Maxim suppressor on his 30-30.


Before 1934 and the NFA demonization of sound mufflers (moderators, silencers, suppressors) and the exorbitant $200 tax ($3000 in today's dollars) it was considered polite to reduce the report of your firearm, just like we do now with car mufflers. In other countries with more restrictive firearms laws they encourage you to moderate the report of your firearms. Here, it is branded as evil and is a felony if you try to reduce the report of a firearm by attaching a sound reducing device without paying the tax.

Thanks to inflation, the $200 tax is now within reason for the common man. I paid the tax and am waiting on my stamp for approval to build my own. I will be using a lathe that my machinist buddy will let me use after work and building a simple cone baffle supperssor. It is about 9.5" long and 1.5" wide. It will have qty, 8, 60 degree cone baffles spaced 5/8" with a blast chamber of about 1.5". I could buy the equivalent for $500+, but I am a poor teacher. Should quiet down my 30-30 to .22lr noise. If I load subsonic using Trailboss powder, it should be airgun quiet.

Now if I can get my hands on a marlin or a working remlin!

I have a 1956 Winchester 94 I can trade for your Marlin! Let me know! (I want the Marlin so I can easily mount a scope to clear the sights with the suppressor attached and I don't want to cut up a Pre-64 Winchester that is no longer being made.)

Here is modern day equivalent:
 
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