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Discussion Starter #1
Well, Ive been browsing this forum after being sent over by VTDW, because I have a problem with my 336-30/30. I was loading it to go hunting and the lever got stuck in the open position, which it has done before. A little elbow grease and I had it back down, but then it would not latch. I checked and tightened all the screws, still no luck, but it would dry fire when held shut, so I wasnt to worried. Well, I went out to shoot today and discovered that while it will dry fire fine, if you chamber a round, it will not fire, only slightly denting the primer...My total knowledge of the action and functions of the rifle are about none, I have removed the bolt and lever, nothing looked out of place, but then, I dont have anything to compare it to. Is it possible that when I put the bolt back in, I somehow dis-engaged the two piece firing pin?
 

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I'm presuming the latch you are talking of is the lever latch that holds it in place. That is a small spring that operates it in the lever itself and must be removed to check for the problem usually old grease and such and maybe a rusted spring.

I would at this point tear the whole action down including bolt for a thorough cleaning. Removing the mag tube and components for cleaning also. You may be surprised that all you are dealing with is some sort of dirt mixed with glove lint powder fouling and time.

Far as a light primer strike that sometimes happens with the front portion of the firing pin being broken though it still looks to be there if it is broken it will cause light strikes. They sometimes snap past the straight portion and have just enough to hold it inside the bolt making it seem it is okay. Tearing the bolt down fully and soaking the front portion in a good powder solvent will help the cleanup also. Do visit the disassembly and clean area of the reference library for a detailed tear down.
 

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Ed,

Take care of that Texas boy. ;) I done told him you know your stuff bro. ;D We'll see if he can follow directions eh?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, I spent all morning tearing down the action, all the way to the loader swinging out. Inspected all of the parts, cleaned them, oiled and re-assembled...and...No Luck ???

I went outside to test fire and had the same results, the hammer would drop but not fire. My only though now is that the "locking lug"(?) is not lifting up enough to line up the rear part of the firing pin. When I push the pin up and forward by hand, it seems to come out of the face of the bolt far enough to puncture the primer.

On a good note, I did learn alot about the action of the rifle, so Im happy about that. And, I didnt have any parts left over! :eek:
Does anyone have a gunsmith in the Tyler/Longview area that they would recommend?

Thanks
 

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Wait on Swany to come back on this.

Did you take the firing pin and all out of the bolt and then clean the bolt out along with the pin? I once sprayed and sprayed cleaner down thru the bolt etc with the same problem as you. Someone told me to take the dang bolt apart and then spray and clean. That did the trick. After you get used to your rifle you will be able to feel if there is grit in there. NBS

Glad you did not have any parts left over. ;D

Dave 8)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yup, took of the ejector/extractor, punched out the two pins, removed 2 piece firing pin, it wasnt too dirty, but I sprayed, scrubbed and wiped it down.
 

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When you tore your bolt down did you inspect the inside for a burr in front of the rear piece? Once in a while that is the culprit. Does it go off if you ear back the hammer a second time?

Pushing the locking lug up and if fires makes me think, one possible at this point I can theory and that is your lever may be bent slightly (how I don't know once in a while someone has a deformed or not resized handload and they squeeze it into the chamber this makes a lot of stress on the lever) not allowing it to send your locking lug home.

Start by rolling a small piece of paper tape, attache it to the lever where it pushes the bolts lockup and see if that does it. Super glue an eraser tip on it if you lack the tape. Thing is if you have a newer gun with the trigger block you may have to defeat that to do this expierment. If you have another 336 try it's lever in it and see if it cures the problems.

If doing the above does not cure the problem you might consider a one piece firing pin from Longhunt.com.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
swany said:
When you tore your bolt down did you inspect the inside for a burr in front of the rear piece? Once in a while that is the culprit. Does it go off if you ear back the hammer a second time?
Pushing the locking lug up and if fires makes me think, one possible at this point I can theory and that is your lever may be bent slightly (how I don't know once in a while someone has a deformed or not resized handload and they squeeze it into the chamber this makes a lot of stress on the lever) not allowing it to send your locking lug home.
Start by rolling a small piece of paper tape, attache it to the lever where it pushes the bolts lockup and see if that does it. Super glue an eraser tip on it if you lack the tape. Thing is if you have a newer gun with the trigger block you may have to defeat that to do this expierment. If you have another 336 try it's lever in it and see if it cures the problems.
If doing the above does not cure the problem you might consider a one piece firing pin from Longhunt.com.
No burr on the inside of the bolt, wont fire on the second try. Im fixing to try the tape trick, are the two little pins right behind the trigger the ones that push the bolt lockup? As it is right now, it will dry fire fine, but it will not fire a round at all, no matter how I hold it or squeeze the lever. And for what its worth, its a 1972 model, so Im assuming it doesnt have the trigger block
 

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The trigger block is the little button that sticks out just behind the trigger, the lever has to disengage this to allow the trigger to be pulled.

So if you tape the lug or lever to allow some more push on the block you may have to put something in that area to allow the trigger to pull.

Good luck on your quest.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, I took it to the Gunsmith yesterday, they called me this morning and said it was ready to go. The lever had gotten bent somehow, so he straightened it out and everything locked up good. Big thumbs up for "The Gun Doctor" in Longview, Tx.
 

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Sam Statser said:
Well, I took it to the Gunsmith yesterday, they called me this morning and said it was ready to go. The lever had gotten bent somehow, so he straightened it out and everything locked up good. Big thumbs up for "The Gun Doctor" in Longview, Tx.
Mighta been that elbow grease you were talking about. :D I was getting near the bottom of the posts & thinking it might be bent but guess I was a bit late.
 

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I am new to the site and to the 336 world. I have a Marlin 336 from 1974 (that belonged to my uncle). I shot it for the first time today and experienced a problem with ejecting the empty shell. I was able to charge and fire the rifle, when I go to eject the casing, it felt stuck. I almost had to use to two hands to force the lever down and eject the casing. charging the rifle is not a problem, but ejecting the empty round is horrible. Any suggestions?
 

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Tear it down and clean the bbl and chamber to start with. Use a good solvent like Hoppes or such. Welcome to Marlin Owners.
 
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