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Recently a 1936 rifle which was in nice shape but definately not as new sold on Gunbroker for $1,155.00. Are the rifles worth a lot more than the carbines? I have a carbine as nice or nicer than this rifle and I didn't think it was worth close this amount! :?:
 

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wiktor

What model Marlin are you referring to?

DG

wiktor said:
Recently a 1936 rifle which was in nice shape but definately not as new sold on Gunbroker for $1,155.00. Are the rifles worth a lot more than the carbines? I have a carbine as nice or nicer than this rifle and I didn't think it was worth close this amount! :?:
 

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For what its worth,
the 2004 standard catalog of firearms says, 1st variation (early 1936) Exc.$1000 - V.G. $700 - good $300 - Fair $ 175 - poor $125.

2nd variation (late 36 - 37) should have a B prefix. Exc - $550, V.G. $400, Good $250, Fair $150 & poor $100.

So I guess that gun you saw sold at a premium.
Prices really go by what someone will spend so its not like these are written in stone.
Going by what I see your gun was only produced for a year & if its really a 1st Variation, less than a year. I would think that may bring up the value. Also the recent Cowboy action craze has to have had an affect on what people will pay.
Sounds like you have a very nice carbine.
My book doesnt differentiate between rifle & carbine as to price for this gun.
 

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I would say this is a perfect example of what the internet has done to cause the prices of collectable guns to go absolutely out of control!
I saw a mint model 1936 at a gun show early this year. It was priced at $900, and it was still there at the end of the show. The next show I was at, I saw the same guy, with that gun priced at $800, and it still didn't sell. It finally sold for $750. The gun looked like a new piece, one of the nicest Marlins I've ever seen.
 

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That wasn't at Puyallup was it MM. I bought a B prefix 1936 that appears like NIB with no indication of any firing once it left the factory. I did some swapping so can't give a correct price but that was about what he was asking when I started ($800).
 

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Nope, it was at the Expo in Portland. Along those same lines, I was at the Puyallup show a few months ago, and saw a model 1881 in .40-60M for $1400. It was pretty tired, and the wood was very light in color, because someone had literally sanded it away! It was also very low, and should have been replaced. My friend and I were commenting to each other that it should never be priced over $800, when up walks a guy and buys it for $1250!
When the guy got away from the table, I stopped him, (wondering what possed him) and asked what had caught his eye about this gun. He was thrilled to death to get it, as he said he had seen many on the auction sites go for over $2,000 in similar condition!
I asked if he was going to put it on the auction, and he said he would, if it didn't shoot well. If the bore looked anything like the outside, it probably didn't shoot at all!
 

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1936 or not?

Enjoying this discussion in part because last year I bought a 336 chambered in .30-30 simply because it was in great shape and it looked good. Later, after checking the serial number, I realized it should be a 1936. It has the B prefix, but it has the open receiver of the follow on 336 model.

How can this be? My discussion with a member of the old Marlin Forum left me believing this is not possible, that the 1936 has a closed receiver bolt, like the 1894. The problem is compounded because it has obviously been rebarrelled with modern 336A barrel.

A wise and insight friend, whom many of you know as 3Marlins, has told me that serial number dating isn't fool proof, and that Marlins exist with serial numbers that don't square with the known dating scheme. We have wondered whether this rifle might be a transition rifle, maybe even one of the first made, that has the new 336 design receiver, but carries the B prefix of the 1936.

Any knowledge or thoughts would be appreciated. It really doesn't matter whether it is or isn't a 1936, though the prefix says it should be. I love the rifle, which has a very unique quality to it. But I sure would like to know.
 

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Is not the serial number on the trigger plate under the lever on your rifle? That part may have been switched out for some reason. The 336's started with the letter "E" to the serial number.
 
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