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Discussion Starter #1
After acquiring a 1967 RC with perfect bore but busted stock busted sight and surface rust on the outside......Marauder Time again.
A change up from the first project.....barrel will finish out the same 17"ish length so as not to be confused with a real Marauder but I'll place the barrel band close to the muzzle and the barrel sight to the rear of the band, just like the original Marauders.
Here we go....
Cut about 3" off the end of the barrel and then use a piloted face cutter to square the end of the barrel to the bore...

As you can see, a perfectly smooth and square face to start the crown from, plenty accurate, good as new on a bore with sharp, crisp undamaged rifling.

Switch to the smaller 11 degree target crown cutter and make the recess to protect the rifling at the muzzle from the inevitable dings and dents, preserving the accuracy for a long time to come.

The finished crown. With good cutters, piloted and a steady hand and a bit of oil, no final polish needed. Smooth as a babies butt and it'll crap bullets with satisfying accuracy all day long.

I usually cut off the back of the mag tube....I'm goin full Marauder look this time, so off comes the unsightly and unneeded barrel band screw slot as I cut off the front end. This will allow me to restyle the gun, band forward, sight back and no ugly cut out showing midway between the barrel band and forend. Just a little detail, but its a good look/right look/workmanship to strive for.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
How much to shorten the mag spring? I never shorten it initially more than the 3" I cut from the mag tube....leaves me a plenty stiff mag spring, and should finish up with a final capacity of 5 170g loads in the mag and 1 in the pipe for a true Six Shooter....more than sufficient to stack up 6 late evening does w/o reload on the food plot.
Measure, and, Clip.

The factory forend is too ugly long for the 20" barrel...so, off comes its snout for the new 17"ish barrel....leave about 1/8" or so of wood beyond the barrel band and square it up later during the refinish. Good walnut on this marlin forend, too bad the stock is broken...but I should be able to reuse the buttplate and hopefully, the undamaged bullseye in the belly of the stock.

For reference, initial reassembly to check the look. Also, to the right, the parts removed from the snout to make a 336 into a world class fast Bush Stalker and deadly accurate 150m cornfield sniper...

A look at the barrel assembly, lacking a bit of fitting of the band and cross bolt and I'll add the front sight groove soon....

A nice look, just over half the forend is wood and the rest is blued steel...pretty. Now, when the straight grip stock gets here I'll convert the lower tang from pistol grip to straight configuration and coax that silly bent lever into proper straight shape. Marlin was smart in 63 and 64. They copied the Win 94 grip and lever shape for the Marauder! That's funny there, Winchester shape on a Marlin Lever. Maybe I can sneak a Win part into this conversion too, just like the last one!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Select a location for the front sight dovetail, behind the location of the barrel/tube band...just like the original Marauders.
Install a 3/8 dovetail cutter and approach with confidence or hire out the job but ya gotta level the jig to the action, clamp the jig and cut the barrel dovetail with a hacksaw and files. Off we go, its level or I ain't worth a damn.

No going back, I carved out as much metal as possible with the hacksaw, hardened jig makes the blade sing when I hit the bottom....keeps it from being too deep or too wide...its gonna be perfect and straight.

Clean up the floor of the dovetail and the undercuts, jig in place with files....when they sing, ye've bottomed out.

Checking the fit and position with a try sight...see, dead nuts straight up and down...its perfect and I am Justin Wilson, Hoo Weee, that's Hot!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The deer end...straight sight, good crown, deadly combo...

Pretty good this way too.

Looks fine from here too..

And there, close as I can make it w/o shortening up the wood any further, a Marauder styled front end....It'll fool ya but not a collector... length, etc, all close for the look but no way it'll pass the Serial number test or barrel length, etc....a Marauder Styled Carbine and ya can shoot it instead of collecting it. A much better place to be.
 

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Sharps40, that's a darn good job so far, keep it up. Looking forward to seeing the finished product all dressed up and polished. Be sure to post a few pictures and then a range report.

Jack
 
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That's looking very, very nice! Great detailed instructions and pics as well, however, a man has to know his limitations, and I know mine. I would have to farm all of that out, but many here can follow your steps and have a great lil carbine when done. I would wind up with a Rossi Ranch Hand wearing a crooked sight, muzzle and half the forearm. Thanks for sharing your project, I love seeing projects like this take place! DP
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks all. Hopefully pickin up an SC for rescue on Fri/Sat. Looks decent from the pics but sawed off to 16", sights removed and a shotgun bead installed. We'll see, if it can be had and how to move it back a bit closer to original fit and finish. Right now its seems to be languishing in Truck Rifle Hell.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I havn't had a vice in almost 25 years. Never found a use for one after the first one got lost in a move and after so many years without, I've not built any benches with dedicated vice area. Course, I havn't crushed or mangled parts since loosing the vice either so I spect its a win win for me and the guns!
 

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Awesome thread. It must be nice to have such talent!! Congrats and can't wait to see the finished photos. Ron
 
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Looking good so far, on the clamp/vice deal I too work with C-clamps instead of vices and have done my share of metal on metal damage, also have found wrapping the gun metal with scrap leather works great in protecting the finish. (old shoe/boot leather is the cheap trick). Keep us posted !
 

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Sharps40 great post. And thanks for taking the mystery out of how to shorten and recrown a barrel at home, so much so i believe my search for a good candidate to hack has increased dramatically. I enjoy good simple hand tools about as much as my guns, they are good investments, i keep telling myself that. Would you mind letting us know the brand/type tool you used for the the piloted face cut as well as the crown and the the dovetail jig? I like and want to try my hand at this so your input would be appreciated.

Looking forward to more pics and how the finished product turns out for you. Best of luck but looks like skill to me.

Fishkat
 
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Nice. When this it done I would like to move it to our reference library. Meanwhile I'm going to make this a sticky and keep it on top. For what it's worth I've done this to a .35 Rem and when it came to the lever I flattened the back of the round end slightly. It gave it a new look and a little more room in the back.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Sharps40 great post. And thanks for taking the mystery out of how to shorten and recrown a barrel at home, so much so i believe my search for a good candidate to hack has increased dramatically. I enjoy good simple hand tools about as much as my guns, they are good investments, i keep telling myself that. Would you mind letting us know the brand/type tool you used for the the piloted face cut as well as the crown and the the dovetail jig? I like and want to try my hand at this so your input would be appreciated.

Looking forward to more pics and how the finished product turns out for you. Best of luck but looks like skill to me.

Fishkat
Standard cutters from Brownells. Pilots can be had there too or save a few bucks and make yer own for perfect fit from mild steel or brass rod. Been useing my first set of these cutters and crowners for about 15 years now...lost count of how many barrels they've set up. Accuracy? Yes, never seen a lathe turned crown shoot better than a ten minute cut, smooth and crown with these hand tools.

Dovetail jig is standard muzzleloader builders fair. Try Track of the Wolf or any of several of the larger custom houses. I've been useing this tool for over 20 years and its still fine as frog hairs...wears out files and saw blades pretty spanky quick! Save yer old files and blades for the dovetail work....new ones are ruined after a few jobs with this very hard and tough jig. You can shim under the jig to create shallower dovetails to....experiment.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Nice. When this it done I would like to move it to our reference library. Meanwhile I'm going to make this a sticky and keep it on top. For what it's worth I've done this to a .35 Rem and when it came to the lever I flattened the back of the round end slightly. It gave it a new look and a little more room in the back.
Thanks. This is the second Marauder-esk project I'm posting up here. I think I bumped up the first here a day or so back to sorta lay the reminder foundations for this one and allow folks to compair both threads (but that coulda been on another board, gettin old, got CRS!) As indicated, a bit more Marauder look with this project as I am fitting out the barrel band infront of the sight. There will be a final tweak of the barrel band to further diferentiate it from the original Marauder....that way no one should ever run afoul of buying a nice Marauder and findin out it ain't!!!!

Yer right, the curved to straight lever mod is silly easy. A few taps in the right spot from an assortment of fine tuned SmasherWackers and a polish and reblue and you have what ya thought would be the worst part lookin and workin perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Prolly spend the next couple evenings or so tweakin and finalizing the barrel band and mag tube. Maybe restore that forend wood too. I'll be orderin a precarved straight grip buttstock since the pistol grip for this RC is broken. That'll take a week or so to come in and then I'll fit it, but if you look at the Marauderesk project in references, ye'll note the fitting is much less intense than the carving of a pistol grip to straight grip! Final steps will again be old time rust blueing of all the metal....And I ain't decide what Winchester part to sneak in there yet but I'm eyeballin a nice Winchester 1886 rear sight and elevator....HA!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Gotta loosen up the front band, just a touch. When moving these bands far back on the barrel, I open top and bottom to releave tension on the barrel and mag tube for better accuracy. For this set up, much less grinding is required to achieve the relief and so, I only open the lower loop. That will allow me to slide the mag tube in and out once I remove the cross bolt.
A dremil tool and a stone makes fast work of relieving the lower loop.

The front barrel band needs a cross slot, part in the barrel, part in the mag tube. Install the mag tube, tape it tight and secure to the rear. Install the barrel band where I want itshim between mag and barrel to secure the parts. Mark with a small drill bit, and either drill thru with 1/8 or 9-64 bit or hand file the grooves with round files by hand. Either way, hand fitting is required to finish the fit to get it snug when the barrel band screw is snugged down.

Roughin in the grooves for the cross bolt. Best fit is a slight interference fit when installed and pulling the band together tight to secure it all....

Of course, Marlin switched to a large dia screw here cause the little ones always strip out...this one is stripped out....I'll replace it with the next size up screw using a socket head instead of a slotted tip.

Make a new hole in the end to install the bolt that holds the mag tube cap in place in the end of the tube.

Test reassembled again, mag tube cap screw is neatly hidden under the barrel band for a cleaner look. A new larger diameter cross bolt to replace the lightweight factory crossbolt that stripped out like every other one on the old Marlins..... not bad, trim the screw, polish and blue, it'll be rock solid, clean and smooth looking and very functional.

That's it for tonight. Gotta order a stock for this dude now. Guess I might as well start inspecting guts and getting the rest of it cleaned up and ready for wood work and bluing.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Everything is in place for a test fire before going any further. But, that'll prolly mean some elmers on the broken stock and duct tape to secure it for a few shots. I want to be sure all the internals are working smooth and correctly before going any further with the pretties.
For now, contouring the front band to allow for either a wide or narrow barrel mounted sight.


This is a wide base barrel sight. I think it looks great. Fills the entire dovetail groove and sits nice over the barrel. A narrower base front sight would allow for some windage adjustment but I'm predicting the barrel is straight and I won't need to skew the sights off center by much if any.

Another shot of the business end of this sight.....not sure if it'll be this one or a green one or even a taller or shorter one but I think I like this look on the front. Now where did I put that Winchester 94 rear sight??.....
 
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