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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I found a rough one with some potential at a local gun shop gave it a light cleaning. 6/0 steel wool on some barrel rust soap and water only on the stock. Needed a new buttplate too. Light cleaning inside, mostly carb cleaner and air hose did not strip it totally.

Took it to the range yesterday and found it light striking, half the cartridges would not fire and ones that did had minimal pin marks. Nothing wrong with the cartridges and as far as I can see firing pin. Rifle is very easy to cock to much so is my guess.

Suspected the mainspring, it's not like a 336, frame and tang have 3 sets of dovetails so you can set the spring tension instead of putting washers over the strut. It was on the lightest setting. Have it apart now but going back together is a bear. strut mounted mainsprings are always hard. Try one on a Browning High Power one time. Short of making a special tool any advice on easier way to get it back on in one of the stronger dovetails ?

I might have to move it up one more too depending on ignition so best routine is going to be important. There is no reason I could not go back to the washer over the strut trick but without the spring in place it fits fine in the other two dovetails.

All advice appreciated.

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Its harder than a 336 type for sure. See if you can get either the top or bottom of the retainer started first so you can lever the other end into place.
 

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With the bolt out, roll the hammer all the way forward then install the spring and retainer. Cock it then replace the bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks all

Using the one end first method I popped the other end of the spring reatining plate with a wooden dowel used as a punch & hammer. It's easier to do if the lower tang screws are loose, you get about 1/32 extra clearance which makes it go in pretty easy. Looking at the scratches inside the tang this must be the way the factory put the spring in place. I don't think this gun has been opened up since new. Put the mainspring back in one notch tighter significant increase in hammer fall, still misfiring.

When I bought the rifle went the easy way and cleaned with carb cleaner and air hose, did not strip the bolt. Putting the 36's square bolt beside a 1895 cowboy round bolt and comparing there is obvious drag on the 36's firing pin when the rear pin is pushed up into positon. I suspect the trouble is just a dirty bolt or perhaps some peening on the pin.

Stripping it now never pays to cut corners

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Swany

If it was new thats the way I would go, but this is a M 36A 1947 vintage, are they avalable ? Am setting it up for NRA CLA Silhouette matches improvements are good.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got the old two piece pin out. It's peened and so is the bolt. Looks like hammer fell with the pin not in proper alignment due to dirt and crud. I cleaned it up and on a guess ordered a one piece pin from Long Hunter Suppy on Swany's advice. Long Hunter did not know for sure if the M 36 and 336 pins were the same but offered to take it back if it would not fit. Turns out they are the same pin, it went in smooth. It's popping primers nice in the shop now. Have it at the range shortly. With the one piece pin I took the hammer spring tension back to the lightest setting. Makes the trigger pull much better.

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Theyre the same pins. Its ok with the one piece but if it were mine I'd get a 336 rear pin & bring it back to the way its suposed to be. The drag is often caused by the spring that pushes the rear half down, you can straighten that out quite a bit & relieve the drag, it'll even work with no spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Leverdude you are right original is most always best. I cleaned up the bolt and rear pin, kept the old parts and will put it back in original condition when I sell it. Except now it will fire every time. Same with the original sights. . It's being set up for competition and while it probably makes no difference score wise gives you just a bit more confidence knowing it's been tweaked. Added advantage is I know more about how the gun works having done the job. I do think I have been able to get a better trigger pull with the one piece. Running less hammer spring tension improves the pull. Occasional fail to fire in Silhouette is not a match looser. Rules allow alibi as long as the primer has a pin mark. You want reliable on the edge of not reliable.

Pretty sure I saved this 36A from the junk pile it was real rough outside when I bought it. Gave it a restoration without a re-finish, cleaned up mostly. Appears to have been shot very little though probably because it was not reliable. Sounds odd to talk about selling off however shooting matches only keep what I use. No full rifle CLA matches around here setting up this one just for Raton. Probably shoot it with a for sale sign taped to the stock and bag of original parts. Silhouette shooters love full rifle 30/30's

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