[Cherokeenation]

Well.......did something I might want some sage advice on. ???

I loaded some initial loads for the 336 in .30-30 that I just inherited. I am using the Hornady 160gr FTX with the Leverevolution powder. Just going over everything today and realized I accidently bought the Win LRM instead of the suggested WinLR primers. Now I have a variety of loads loaded from 30gr to 34 gr with these primers.

I am just not sure how the magnum primers are going to act in a .30-30 load. I know I am under the high end loads they suggest, but still not sure how hot these are going to be with these primers.

Anyone have any thoughts on if I should start over or if these will be safe to use. Bought a dang brick of primers right away, too!!


Thanks, Bryan

 

[Charlie98]

Shouldn't be a problem, start with your low-end loads and work through them, looking for pressure signs. If you settle on a load you have, you may have to rework it slightly with regular WLR primers lighting the fire.

 

[papajohn]

Dennis (C98) is spot-on. Proceed with caution, but do proceed. I have no experience with that powder, but you should be okay. Just watch/listen for anything out of the ordinary. Excessive recoil or report, stiff extraction, noticeable swelling slightly above the rim, smudges around the primers, all those things that tell you the envelope has been stretched too far. Make haste slowly. 8)

 

[Cherokeenation]

Thanks guys. ;D

Finally got ahold of a buddy of mine who is a gun guru and said the exact same thing! Luckily for me he will be coming down from Wisc next weekend to go turkey hunting. Will run through the loads with him to check for bad signs.

Now I just hope Cabelas will take back 970 magnum primers tomorrow!! LOL

 

[308/338]

You have been giving good advice twice [PJ & C98] I used Mag. primer in place of standard for different reasons. All I did was drop a grain of powder to make up for the mag. prime. Looking at the new Hornady handbook of cartridge reloading 8th. Edition the listed max charge for the LVR powder for the 30 30 with the 160gr.FTX #30395 bullet is [36.5gr]. You stated your high charge is 34.0 gr. with your low charge at 30.0 gr., Your 2.5gr. below max. charge Take the good advice from PJ on watching for your pressure signs. If you do your end correct I don't see a problem.

TO NY

 

[swany]

All the logic says do it, but then if you get a one hole group using mag primers in your 30-30 you might just stock up on them and...................................

 

[Aussie 1]

All the logic says do it, but then if you get a one hole group using mag primers in your 30-30 you might just stock up on them and...................................

This is what I was thinking, don't be too hasty getting rid of those Magnum primers, if nothing else it will give you a good excuse to get yourself some ridiculous cannon that actually needs those primers ;D

 

[80hp]

For the difference in cost, it's not worth the cost of gas to take them back. As others have said, start below a max load and work up slowly.
M.

 

[Halwg]

Now I just hope Cabelas will take back 970 magnum primers tomorrow!! LOL

That's not going to happen. They won't take back primers. At least the Cabela's I frequent won't. Just find a load that shoots well with them and keep shooting.

 

[308/338]

I don't believe any dealer will take back primers or powders it's pretty much a one way deal. The best way to unload them is to trade or sell at a local gun show. if you keep them high and dry they will last for years.

T ;D NY

 

[Charlie98]

I don't believe any dealer will take back primers or powders it's pretty much a one way deal. The best way to unload them is to trade or sell at a local gun show. if you keep them high and dry they will last for years.

T ;D NY

I was over at CTD the other day (walking out empty-handed and dissatisfied, as usual) and they have signs on the ammo shelves that it's against federal law to return ammunition; I suspect components like primers and powder would be the same. I know if I was a retailer I wouldn't.

Swany is correct, (as is Aussie!) that in regards to the .30-30 you are probably OK just running mag primers if that is what you have, as long as your load was developed with them. If your loads aren't very accurate, etc, well, you can cross that bridge when you get there.

 

[308/338]

I have used mag. primers in the pass and never found a difference at all. There are some recipes that calls for mag. primers especially when using ball powders. Don't get the name magnum mix up thinking that it must be associated with the most powerful a 44 mag. isn't as powerful as a 444. The 357 mag. case is only 10 percent longer than a 38spl. and a 30/06 is 1/2" longer than a 308 Win. but is not called a magnum, go figure.

Relax use those mag. primers just as you would stand with caution.

T NY

 

[woodrat]

Your question is exactly the same question I was going to post this morning. I just picked up a couple hundred primers the other day, got home and realized that the kid handed me magnum primers instead of the regular LR that I asked for. I already know from experience that you can't return ammunition, so I was trying to find a friend who could use these and then I was just going to buy more of the right ones. Good to know that I can actually use these if it comes to that.

 

[miatakix]

Hehehe, you're a lot less worse off than I am, I just bought a brick of small pistol mag primers by accident the other day, myself, and I don't have any pistol that can use mag primers (.380, 9mm, 38 special standard pressure, and 45 Auto, that's it). So now I'm like slapping my forehead. But rifle mag primers are far less of a big deal than pistol mag primers. The military has always used mag primers in their rifles stretching back at least to the .30-06 (in the Springfield 1903 rifles and M1 Garands) days. The idea is that you get more reliable ignition in extreme cold temps. So yeah, I basically use mag primers in all my AR-15 and M1 Garand loads (CCI Arsenal primers, they're mag primers with a very hard primer cup that meets the military specifications for hardness).

Think about it, the .30-30 case has a good bit of volume, a little bit extra heat from the primer isn't that big of a deal. You do need to adjust your load, working up as everyone else has suggested, but in doing so you can come to a fantastic load. But now in something like a .380 or 9mm case, the mag primer starts to become more of a problem...the case volume is quite small.

The only thing you might want to be cautious with in your rifle is reduced loads with pistol powder...that would require some thought...I don't know, I really don't have any experience with such things. When I'm shooting a rifle I like it to have some get up and go. Otherwise I'm just going to shoot one of my .22s.

 

[35remington]

miata, I accidentally bought small pistol magnums in a large lot one time myself. I simply used them up in my 38 Spl standard loads, and I really had no complaints.

 

[miatakix]

Ah, that's good to hear, 35remington, thanks for the heads up. Guess it makes sense, with the larger case capacity of the special.

 

[moofy07]

Lots of great advice, the answer is pretty simle. Follow that great advice.

 

[papajohn]

I ran a test a couple years ago using magnum primers in my standard 357 load (16.2 Lil Gun, 158 grain JHP) and found that the standard variance from load to load (using mixed brass) was a bigger difference than switching to a hotter primer. Unless you're right at top end already, I don't worry about it. I don;t load ANYTHING that hot.

In a smaller case like a .380 or 9mm, you're going to get slightly faster ignition, but with those tiny charges of powder and the expansion ratio involved, you're simply going to get to shotstart pressure a bazillionth of a second sooner. The instant that bullet begins to move out of the case, it's a moot point.

 

[Sweetwater]

All posted advice is spot on! Seems mag primers have been elevated to some voodoo plateau. Mag primers will work most anywhere a standard primer works. Either rifle or pistol/revolver. Start at the low end of the data and do your load development. You may be pleasantly surprised. I doubt you will be disappointed. Have fun and stay safe.

Jeff
NRA Life

 

[Oz]

All posted advice is spot on! Seems mag primers have been elevated to some voodoo plateau. Mag primers will work most anywhere a standard primer works. Either rifle or pistol/revolver. Start at the low end of the data and do your load development. You may be pleasantly surprised. I doubt you will be disappointed. Have fun and stay safe.

Jeff
NRA Life

Eggzackery.