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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was given this gun for my 16th birthday. I'm now 47 and have put thousands and thousands of rounds through it. I noticed the looseness a couple of weeks ago. At first I thought it was the stock but the movement is actually where the barrel fits into the receiver. The gun still shoots great and I noticed the play while squirrel hunting AFTER I limited out. Anyone have a fix for this or is the gun on it's way out?
 
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Hello and welcome to MO
I'v have doctored a few 22 and 22mags with aluminum receivers and loose barrels by punching out the barrel retaining pin,redrilling the hole a mite larger and installing an over sized pin.
On one Henry 22mag that shot loose TWICE,I used a little JB Weld on the barrel AND pin when reinstalled.So far so good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the welcome, mudpuppy. After reading your reply I went out to my shop and removed the barrel from the gun. The pin looked good and I can see what you mean about oversizing it. The groove in the barrel that the pin fits into was worn pretty good. For now I closed it up a bit with a pin punch, reinstalled the barrel and pin and it tightened right up. I loaded four shells into the gun, went behind the shop and...click! Oh crap! Cycled the bolt and the next three fired and cycled with no problem. I guess it was just bad luck that the first shell was a dud. Thanks again for the reply and the welcome.
 
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mudpuppy
I used jb weld so my scope wouldn't slide on 1 of my Model 60. But I don't think anyone should do it on a big bore. ::) ::) think we need a disclaimer. ;D
 

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All kinds. Enamored of their mechanisms! Worked as an engineering
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An elegant fix might be removing the barrel, putting it in a lathe, and straight knurling the shank that fits in the receiver. Just knurl it enough to have about .003 to .005 oversize press fit. The steel of the barrel will displace the aluminum into the grooves of the knurl. Then replace the retaining pin with one of the same diameter of a softer steel that is also straight knurled. That'll hold for another 40 years. AC
 

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Hello, new here this is my first post. I've owned many Marlin 60s, never had an issue with the barrel being loose until the latest one I purchased at a pawnshop. It is an old Glenfield 60 model from the late 70s or early 80s. It was really beat up I got it for really cheap. Didn't notice the barrel was loose until I went to disassemble it at home.. I looked around all over the net to figure out how to repair it. What I ended up doing was :
I purchased this dual party called stop speed steel or steel stick. Made by JB Weld . I stripped the receiver to bare aluminum using aircraft remover. Next I cleaned the barrel with 1000 sandpaper after stripping the black paint that somebody had brushed on LOL. It was horrible looking . I mixed the putty between my thumb and forefinger just as the instructions say kind of feels like silly buddy and stinks really bad. I coated the worn knurled end of the barrel, and put some inside the lower receiver about a 16th of an inch thick around the inside of the opening. I've pushed the barrel back into the receiver, hammered the pin back into place, and quickly cleaned all of the excess that squeezed out. You could feel when the barrel was sitting where it should and was nice and straight. I let it sit for about an hour and then continued with bluing the barrel, repainting the receiver with high temperature chemical resistant enamel, refinishing the stock etc. I could move the end of the barrel about 3/8 of an inch when I purchased it. That equates to about a half mile of inaccuracy at 100 yards LOL. Anyway I got this thing back together threw my scope on it and sighted it in at 75 yards. This thing has been holding zero perfectly now for over a month . I'm shooting groups about the size of a quarter at 75 yards. I just wish I could find more info on it. It has the bull's-eye inlay, also the white laminate piece between the recoil pad and the stock, looks to be a wooden stock not a laminate one. Also has gold trigger. The takedown pin inside of it was not plastic it is too flat head screws same thing for the front pins, they are screws and not pins like the newer models. Last thing I need to do is replace the buffer, as it has crumbled. I saved this classic gun from ending up in the dumpster, and it outshoots my friends Ruger 10/22 all day long LOL
 

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mudpuppy
I used jb weld so my scope wouldn't slide on 1 of my Model 60. But I don't think anyone should do it on a big bore. ::) ::) think we need a disclaimer. ;D
Another option you can use on something like the scope mounts to prevent from mount from slipping in the grove is blue locktite....I'm not talking screws, I'm talking the metal to metal surface mounting. Locktite will work on any metal to metal pressured surface. I did this on a pistol rear sight where the friction was kinda loose. A month later I decided to remove the sight and had to heat the darn thing to get it to move at all, a hammer and punch alone wouldn't cut it!

DR
 

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Another option you can use on something like the scope mounts to prevent from mount from slipping in the grove is blue locktite....I'm not talking screws, I'm talking the metal to metal surface mounting. Locktite will work on any metal to metal pressured surface. I did this on a pistol rear sight where the friction was kinda loose. A month later I decided to remove the sight and had to heat the darn thing to get it to move at all, a hammer and punch alone wouldn't cut it!

DR
I used red loc-tite once on the U-joint-to-pinion bolts. Never again! LOL! When the sun goes nova, there will be all these little nuts and bolts finally being released by the heat. Holy hell that stuff doesn't mess around.
 
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