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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all
Just a couple of questions concerning the loading gate spring.

1. Does this spring have to be so strong?
2. Does polishing the back of this spring really help?
3. Is there anything else I can do to keep the gate from pinching my fingers when loading? (almost to the point of blood blisters)
4. Would it hurt anything, to remove the sharp edge inside the receiver, around the loading gate hole? If not should this be cold blued when done?
Thanks
Denny
 

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Hi all
Just a couple of questions concerning the loading gate spring.

1. Does this spring have to be so strong?
2. Does polishing the back of this spring really help?
3. Is there anything else I can do to keep the gate from pinching my fingers when loading? (almost to the point of blood blisters)
4. Would it hurt anything, to remove the sharp edge inside the receiver, around the loading gate hole? If not should this be cold blued when done?
Thanks
Denny
Using direction from Eli Chaps sticky in this section, I took my 1895G's spring down a bit from the back using a metal file--enough so that I did notice a difference. The only advice on that I'd give is to look down the ejector hole (with everything else removed from the receiver) and watch where your gate spring bends from. That's the point I'd focus on file, evening out your thinned spot from there toward both ends.

I also dulled those edges around the gate as they were stripping brass off cases. Can't have that! Didn't blue anything, just left the metal exposed. Not sure that's for the best though.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Afltchr,
You answered everything I wanted to know at this time, I'll get started tomorrow and post the results here.
Thanks again
Denny
 

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Mine does the exact same thing....to the point where I have to force rounds into the gate. I think I'm going to send my gun to a shop(probably Grizzly Custom) to have a general tune and polish done to the internals. It's a shame that rifles are leaving the factory in this condition.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Mine does the exact same thing....to the point where I have
to force rounds into the gate. I think I'm going to send my gun to a shop(probably Grizzly Custom) to have a general tune and polish done to the internals. It's a shame that rifles are leaving the factory in this condition.
I agree, it is a shame that the factory cant spend a little more time tweaking these rifles before the leave the factory. Eli Chaps is right. With a little patience the sharp edges can be removed and the loading gate spring strength can be reduced. The Forum Reference Library has a lot of info on tweaking these rifles (also its a lot of fun)

Denny
 

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The small screw in the side of the receiver, holds the loading gate spring / cover.

Could a small thin washer, be inserted between the spring and the inside of the receiver?

That would effectively reduce the force needed to move the gate inward, because it would already be moved inward slightly away from the opening.

I just don't know if there's clearance enough to move the gate spring / cover away from the inside of the receiver, without interfering with other parts.
 

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I own two Marlins. A 1895 SBL (JM made) and a 1985 SS (JM made in 1990).
The 1895 SBL came with a different (better) Loading gate: it is a bit longer and curved.
The 1895 SS (I bought recently) had a different loading gate. In this configuration, I was unable to load a round by hand in the mag tube, I had to use the next round, a pencil, whatever.

So I changed the shape of the gate. Result: Now it loads as easy as the 1895 SBL.

See photos:

after
nachher.jpg


before
vorher.jpg


By the way - it's very interesting, to compare these 2 rifles. Basically the same model, but 20 years difference.

Examples:
The action of the 1895 SS is more tight (for the bolt) than the 1895 SBL.
The big loop lever of the 1895 SBL does not run in the 1895 SS.
The lever of the SS runs in the SBL.
The WWG bear proof ejector fits perfectly in the 1895 SBL, but it does not fit in the 1895 SS.
The follower of the 1895 SBL is made from plastic. The follower of the 1895 SS is made from steel.

The action of the 1895 SS ran in general better than the 1895 SBL, both compared in untouched condition. After some polishing, both run compareable.

Big difference: The chamber of the 1895 SBL is optimized (chamfered) for fast cycling. The chamber of the 1895 SS is not, so rounds hang up at the top of the receiver if you cycle too fast. I guess I will have to chamfer the chamber myself in the next weeks...
 

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You guys are so danged nice.
Not a One of y'all said, Man up and get used to it, Cupcake.
Sheesh.
Good advice,, though.
 

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Using direction from Eli Chaps sticky in this section, I took my 1895G's spring down a bit from the back using a metal file--enough so that I did notice a difference. The only advice on that I'd give is to look down the ejector hole (with everything else removed from the receiver) and watch where your gate spring bends from. That's the point I'd focus on file, evening out your thinned spot from there toward both ends.

I also dulled those edges around the gate as they were stripping brass off cases. Can't have that! Didn't blue anything, just left the metal exposed. Not sure that's for the best though.

Good luck!
Can't find this sticky by Eli Chaps. My friend new 1895 is nearly impossible to load.
 

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Had the same issue with my 2016 built 1895 GBL. The sharp edges on the loading spring and on the inside of the receiver scraped off serious flakes of brass off my cartridges. Also, the scrapiness of the involved parts made loading rounds with gloved hands (we hunt boar in cold snowy climate around these parts) all but impossible.

Today, I tore down the receiver and used scotch brite attachements for my dremel tool to break the edges of the loading gate. Also I used 800 grit sandpaper to break the edges on the inside of the ejector window and polished with 1200 grit sandpaper. That obviously took off the blueing on the affected parts, which I will have to reapply.

I did not file down the loading spring itself (which would have reduced spring tension), because I am a bit worried it will increase the risk of inadvertently releasing a round from the tube.

The above treatment reduced the scraping on the cartridges to a minimum, so I am pleased for now.
 

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One simple method in lieu of modification of any kind is to simply load the magazine by not pushing the round all the way in, trap it with your thumb (or often the loading spring provides enough tension) then follow it in with your next round. This results in only pinching your thumb on the last round.
 

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you did good with the gate polish......

placing a dummy round in the gate half way as mentioned works too

put it in & let it sit for a week or so.....did I say dummy round ?

Or call RPP & get a new wizz bang gate for $42
 
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