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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took the old girl to the range today to test out my new XS sights on the 35Rem. Fired 50 rounds and had 4 or 5 rounds not fire. Fist one was factory and tried to fire it 4 times but no go the rest were my reloads. The reloads fire the second time I cocked the hammer. Was able to fire at least 30 before this started happening and they all looked like they had solid hits.

What you guys think?

First couple pics of factory round that failed to fire, the other beside it is a fired round.
IMG_4346.JPG
IMG_4347.JPG
IMG_4349.JPG
 

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Yes, looks like light strikes.
Take the bolt out and see if the firing pin is sliding freely back and forth. If not, there could be your answer.

There is also another thread happening on the same subject. His issue seems to be "headspace".


Mark.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ya I'll break her down today, didn't have time yesterday to sort out the issue. Cheers
 

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If your 336 has a crossbolt safety it may be dragging on that if it is not pushed to the off position all the way. This happened to me on my 1894, its a tight fit and a little bit of drag was enough to cause misfires.
 

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The head stamp looks like RP. My son had a couple of RP managed recoil rounds that did the same thing out of the same box. It was out of my 336 30-30 and never did it before or since.

Since it was with a combo of factory and reloads, it sounds like your firing pin might need cleaning.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK gents, took the bolt apart and gave it a good cleaning last week. Had a chance this morning to head to the range and fired off another 30rds out of her. And yes did it again, twice out of 30 rounds and this time all were reloads and both those rounds fired after pulling the trigger a second time. So what are your thoughts now? I would hate to have a beautiful 10 point in front of me and get a click instead of a bang!
 

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I don't know how old (well used) your gun is, but if there is excess wear on the face of the locking bolt, or the mating surface of the bolt, or both, it will not feed the case to it's fullest extent, causing an intermitent headspace issue, causing light strikes. It is my opinion that unless the action is cycled with alacrity, as opposed to the soft touch used at the range, this problem might neverrear it's head if the wear is minimal.

Take all that and $2.00 and get a cup of coffee.

The top cross section shows the mating surfaces I'm refering to;

http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/how-disassemble-clean/21357-marlin-cross-section.html
 

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With the rifle empty cycle it once and leave it cocked then push forward on the firing pin very gently feeling for resistance about half way. Sometimes the rear firing pin isn't lifted enough by the locking block and it strikes the bolt lightly. This will also cause light strikes. One of a few things to check for.
 

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Im currently researching reloading for this cartridge, and came across this tidbit of info.
The .35 rem head spaces on the shoulder.
if your handloading try a neck size only die,

If the headspacing is incorrect the firing pin will likly give a light strike
 

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Take the bolt apart, soak it over night in a good powder solvent. No telling what may be in it after a few years of gases blasting back in there.

Take a good nylon bristled brush to the insides. Soak it another night. Repeat.

Look for any wear on the rear pins forward end, if you see any polish it. If that cures it good, if not.

Add a #10 machine washer forward of main spring, when reinstalling the main spring do so with the bolt removed and hammer forward it's easier.

If this cures it, you might want to order a new main spring.

Most often I find that hand loading with neck sizing or partial sizing helps with this, but it should not misfire. This usually occurs in a gun that has been firing normally, so it is mechanical wear or obstruction.

This does seem to be more common in the .35 aka the only rimless Marlin levers are chambered for.
 

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I bought a 1969 336 in 35 rem and it would not fire Rem factory ammo for nothing. I finally had the bolt took down, cleaned, and a new spring put in. And now bang, bang, bang, I am so confident. I think I could fire Russian steel cased round in it. That is if they ever make steel cased rounds in 35 Rem.LOL Joel Lee
 

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Hmm. I've had similar problems with my son's 30-30. I thought I might have gotten some case lube in the primer pockets. Not sure but I think on that batch I tried the Hornady one shot lube. Just laid the cases down in a row and sprayed them. Don't recall if I did it before or after I primed the cases. Probably before because I used my lee loader kit and depriming is usually the first step I do.

Other causes you probably know are primers not fully seated and headspace. Try looking at the primers of cases you already fired and see if any primers are slightly backed out. My son's 30-30 did this with factory ammo but does not do it with my neck sized reloads. Likely that gun had headspace issues. The brass shot in my rifle and neck sized gets help head spacing from the shoulder instead of just the rim so usually does fine.

Any chance your die, if it is a full length sizing die, was bought used? Sometimes people grind a little of the bottom of the die for various reasons.. This pushes the shoulder back father than normal. If your head space is a little off (even if your die is NOT altered you could end up with play in your chamber to cartridge fit.

Lastly, and I'm referring to my boys gun again but I think the main spring may have been altered or replaced with a lighter one. That gun cycles slicker and with less effort than any marlin I've ever used. I've begun to wonder if a light main spring is the reason for both my slick action and my misfires. I've toyed with the idea of adding a washer behind the spring or filing another groove in the tang for the retainer clip. Last time I had issues I came home, took the stock off and found the retainer was not in the notch at all so that may be a possibility but it would be obvious as soon as you pulled the stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I don't know how old (well used) your gun is, but if there is excess wear on the face of the locking bolt, or the mating surface of the bolt, or both, it will not feed the case to it's fullest extent, causing an intermitent headspace issue, causing light strikes. It is my opinion that unless the action is cycled with alacrity, as opposed to the soft touch used at the range, this problem might neverrear it's head if the wear is minimal.

Take all that and $2.00 and get a cup of coffee.

The top cross section shows the mating surfaces I'm refering to;

http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/how-disassemble-clean/21357-marlin-cross-section.html
She is a bit of an older girl, pre cross bolt and with the slimmer for end so I'm guessing 70's. Can't speak for how much use as I've only had it 6 months or so. I seem to think that it only did it when I was shooting from the bag and most likely loading it softly because of that. I do not think I had any problems while standing shooting rapidly at the 100m gong. I will have to pay more attention next trip.

Im currently researching reloading for this cartridge, and came across this tidbit of info.
The .35 rem head spaces on the shoulder.
if your handloading try a neck size only die,

If the headspacing is incorrect the firing pin will likly give a light strike
I only have a full length sizer at the moment, may have to track a neck sizer down. Not a lot of gun shops carry 35Rem loading gear up here.

I bought a 1969 336 in 35 rem and it would not fire Rem factory ammo for nothing. I finally had the bolt took down, cleaned, and a new spring put in. And now bang, bang, bang, I am so confident. I think I could fire Russian steel cased round in it. That is if they ever make steel cased rounds in 35 Rem.LOL Joel Lee
I may just order a new spring, maybe the easiest to start with other them cleaning the firing pin which I have done already.

Hmm. I've had similar problems with my son's 30-30. I thought I might have gotten some case lube in the primer pockets. Not sure but I think on that batch I tried the Hornady one shot lube. Just laid the cases down in a row and sprayed them. Don't recall if I did it before or after I primed the cases. Probably before because I used my lee loader kit and depriming is usually the first step I do.

I lube cases with just my fingers using lee lube so no chance of it getting in primer pocket

Other causes you probably know are primers not fully seated and headspace. Try looking at the primers of cases you already fired and see if any primers are slightly backed out. My son's 30-30 did this with factory ammo but does not do it with my neck sized reloads. Likely that gun had headspace issues. The brass shot in my rifle and neck sized gets help head spacing from the shoulder instead of just the rim so usually does fine.

Does not appear to have any primers backed out

Any chance your die, if it is a full length sizing die, was bought used? Sometimes people grind a little of the bottom of the die for various reasons.. This pushes the shoulder back father than normal. If your head space is a little off (even if your die is NOT altered you could end up with play in your chamber to cartridge fit.

Die is a full length but bought new at Browenlls. If the die was pushing the shoulder back to far I would think I would have it happen with more rounds? Maybe not just guessing and it also started with factory ammo the first time.

Lastly, and I'm referring to my boys gun again but I think the main spring may have been altered or replaced with a lighter one. That gun cycles slicker and with less effort than any marlin I've ever used. I've begun to wonder if a light main spring is the reason for both my slick action and my misfires. I've toyed with the idea of adding a washer behind the spring or filing another groove in the tang for the retainer clip. Last time I had issues I came home, took the stock off and found the retainer was not in the notch at all so that may be a possibility but it would be obvious as soon as you pulled the stock.
I think new spring maybe be in order just in case, will also pull stock off and have a little looks see.



Thanks guys for all the info, now to get to work!
 

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Don't know how I missed it but I thought it was a 30-30 you were dealing with. The 35 definitely headspaces on the shoulder.

I've never tried it but I always thought you could neck size with a full length die by backing it off.
 
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Heres my routine.. If the brass was fired in my rifle.. I neck size only with a Lee collet sizer. I still drop it down in a Wilson gage to check it. If the brass is once fired in someone else's rifle I check it with the Wilson gage then decide if it needs to be neck sized only or how much partial sized with full length sizer die needs to be done for it to fit the gage..... Starting at backing out 2 turns and turning in 1/16 at a time. Once its fired in my rifle it goes back to neck sizing only.. But... Every fired round and reloaded round still gets checked in the Wilson gage.. You see my rifle has a larger than average chamber so I know that anything that is 2 thousands or less above the minimum will misfire so I go for middle of the rd on the gage to about 2 thousands above level on the gage. I got a gage and my misfires stopped and I really understand what was happening.. so it helped me a lot.. Sorry Its hard to explain sometimes in writing... at least for me anyway.. :shot: CWT
 
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