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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After cleaning my 1894c I notice that the lever sticks a bit. Is this common? What is the fix?
With thanks
 

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Mine are slick and smooth, but sometimes it took a little judicious stoning to make them that way.

Figure out where it's sticking, e.g. "the bottom of the bolt is catching on the top of the hammer when the lever is closed", and then you'll probably get better advice.
 

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Oblio13 speaks the truth. However, if you fiddled with the scope mount plug screws that's the first thing I check. See if they are in too far.
 
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Mine was a bit sticky also until I had a 'smith stone everything inside and now it's perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you! In fact I removed an old sight mount put in by the previous owner- I went back readjusted the screws, and presto sticking gone. Best forum ever.
 

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ha! I think most of us have done that at one time or another! I remember the time I did it with my first Marlin....who knew the top receiver screw holes went all the way through! :hmmmm:
 

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ha! I think most of us have done that at one time or another! I remember the time I did it with my first Marlin....who knew the top receiver screw holes went all the way through! :hmmmm:
The proper plug screws have a slight head on them so you can't turn them in past flush. No Loctite needed. Brownell's carries them, but they're a little spendy. When I mount a scope, I put them in a tiny zip lock bag and stick them under the buttplate. Standard set screws are OK for plugging barrel holes, not so great for through-holes into actions.

Stan S.
 

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Sage,

Slightly loosen the bottom plate screw, three screws on the sides of the receiver, cycle the lever a few times, close the lever and retighten the screws. When you take one apart, this is the proper fitting process.
 

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Keep reminding me stan4. I want to get spare screws for my 1895GS and store them under the butt plate. I want to hollow out a cavity in the stock to retain these parts. This particular rifle is used as a bush gun and resides in Alaska for trips to Alaska. We travel to some very remote locations in Alaska so losing a critical screw or ejector would be a big deal. Having a spare screw or other piece part readily available could save your bacon. Keep reminding me.
 

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Out of virtually every caliber I've owned, nothing seems to shake the screws loose like a 94 in 44 mag. I have to put goop on mine.
 

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Keep reminding me stan4. I want to get spare screws for my 1895GS and store them under the butt plate. I want to hollow out a cavity in the stock to retain these parts. This particular rifle is used as a bush gun and resides in Alaska for trips to Alaska. We travel to some very remote locations in Alaska so losing a critical screw or ejector would be a big deal. Having a spare screw or other piece part readily available could save your bacon. Keep reminding me.
The Marlin buttstocks I've had don't have any cavity, some makes have either a stock bolt hole or one left from the production process, makes finding room for a small parts bag easy. If you have to excavate, use either a Forstner bit in a drill press or a brad point bit in a drill jig. Either will leave a smooth-sided hole. Just pick a size just big enough to fit your parts package. Don't use a regular pointed metal bit, you'll get a jagged hole and in bad grain it can promote splitting.

Another thing to collect before going on a trip is a set of Marlin bits in a stubby handle. The one I have is pocket sized. All the screws need tightening after about a week's hard hunting. Don't forget the dinky hex wrench for the hammer extension, either.

I usually travel with a whole tool box of stuff, extra scope rings, another scope, Acraglas, all have been used on one trip or another. Without it, I would have been stuck using my spare gun. Have had to fix hunting partners' stuff, too, so I have more than just tools to fit my stuff. If you're going back of beyond, you're going to be limited as to what you can take, of course. Would still take a spare gun, though.

Stan S.
 
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