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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guy`s,

This winter has been a real cold one that has me really bored and stuck inside most of the time.Add the heart attack I had last October and the lack of funds that came along with it.I guess you can say I have lots of time and little funds for entertainment and any gun related projects I was hoping to do with my snowed in day`s.

I found just the thing I could do that fit my budget.I slicked up my marlin 336.I found a 1995 Marlin 336cs in 30-30 at a local gun shop that was shot very little and the rough action was a real turn off.I did most of the modifications in the links below and boy did it turn out awesome.The only thing I did to the action that wasn`t in the links was to polish the bolt with iosso bore paste to take the burrs off and that made all the difference in the world.I also bedded the forearm with the RTV after removing any pressure points that were binding the barrel and the magtube.I did this by removing just a little metal from the inside of the barrel bands until they just fit snug.This realy improved accuracy and no more change of impact with a hot barrel.I didn`t touch the trigger sear or hammer notch but by removing one loop of the hammer spring lowered the trigger pull to around 3lbs and brakes much crisper.

With the great improvement with the 30 30 I started to look at my well broke in 35 Remington and said what the heck.The 35 turned out just like the 30 30 and now I plan on slicking up some of my Winchester 94`s.The tune up was really easy to do and made a major improvement

I posted this to share my experience with all of you and to let you guy`s know how easy it was.hope this helps someone that was thinking of doing this to there rifle

http://www.levergun.com/articles/Race_Tuning.htm

www.marauder13.homestead.com/files/tuning_m_1894.htm

Riflemen10x
 

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Riflemen10x,

Congratulations. Now you have real ownership in those two rifles! I know you feel very satisfied. Thanks for the tip about the barrel bands.

Dave 8)
 

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Thanks for an interesting post and I hope that the recovery from the heart attack goes well.

I have recently taken delivery of a new 336C. So far, I am very impressed with the finish and workmanship.

I am in the process of equipping it with a scope and mount. It looks as though it will be a Weaver "Pro View" and a fixed 4x compact scope.

I have attended to the stock, (2 parts boiled linseed oil and 1 part real turpentine) and worked the action several hundred times. It feeds and ejects cartridges beautifully.

I shall have to wait until the scope and mounts arrive before I can take it to the range.

I don't know if Marlin go to any extra trouble with the 336C, but so far I have no reason to "slik it up".

You say in your post that you took some metal out of the barrel bands to give a "snug fit". Can I assume that you removed just enough metal to give a slide fit ?.

Cheers

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Mark,

Im glad you have a good 336c.Some are better than others.Mine was real ruff.It felt like sand was in the action and the lock up of the lever was real hard.My 35 remington is a 1958 336RC that has seen thousands of rounds and was well broken in.doing the modifications to both rifles has improved them both to an identical operation.you can`t tell them apart.The best improvement was bedding the fore arm stock and barrel with the RTV.This on both rifles keeps the point of impact from changing when the barrel gets hot.Every lever gun I have ever shot has had this problem and to most it isnt that importand.But I was glad to find a fix for it.

Your right about removing the metal from the barrel bands.I used my dremal tool and it didn`t take much.I would reasembal the forearme and mag tub losely and find out where it was binding.once I had it right I reasembaled it with the RTV as stated in the race tuning link.

If your happy with your rifle this might not be for you.Hope you get your scope soon and get her to the range.Let us know how she shots

Riflemen10x
 

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Morning All,

The use of RTV is interesting.

The easiest product to get down here, Australia, is Dow Corning RTV 732, otherwise known as Silastic. Does anyone used it or know if it is suitable ?

Another site suggests that you can make your own release agent by dissolving petroleum jelly ('Vaseline') in a suitable solvent such as paint thinners. I suppose they are referring to mineral turpentine ?

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Mark
 

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Riflemen10X, you said you cut one loop off the main spring to lighten your trigger pull. Have you had a chance to fire the rifle numerous times to establish that the lighter spring tension will cause the various cartridges to fire???

Reason I'm asking is I have a 1976 336C .30-30 with a quite smooth action, but the trigger pull is very stout. My RCBS Trigger Pull Gauge stops at six pounds and the trigger will still not break. It might be upward of seven or eight pounds. (???)

I do not want to get into hammer/sear/trigger manipulaton, so wondered if cutting off a loop of the main spring would solve my extremely heavy trigger pull??

Thanks.

L.W.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Leanwolf,

I have fired around 100 rounds in the 30-30 and 20 in the 35 remington with no Misfires.I used both winchester and federal primers in my reloads.looking at the primers fired in it with the lighter hammer blows and compared them to the ones with the heaver spring they both look the same.

I used a pair of dikes to cut the spring as to not remove the temper in the spring with the heat generated from using a cut off wheel or a grinder.I then used a stone to smoth the ruff edge of the spring flat and instaled the spring with the cut side to the back side.

Riflemen10x
 

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Thanks, Riflemen10X, I'll give it a try. If it turns out to be too light on my rifle, I'll buy another spring and start over.

L.W.
 

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I've bedded many bolt action rifles and a few others also and "Butcher's " paste wax for wood is on of the easiest release agents to get and use.I use epoxy in twin tubes together [Devcon]as bedding compound in a pinch and if I'm in a hurry and carefulI use five minute epoxy,butI REPEAT BE CAREFUL AND RIGHT THE FIRST TIME,otherwise you at least have alot of work to redo or you might have a glued together rifle so unless your sure and careful go with the slower setting glues that give you time to correct mistakes.Shootrj2003 :wink:
 
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