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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, Ive got about 1500 pistol rounds of plinkers under my belt, and think I have a decent start in understanding what I need to do as I reload; but now comes my first attempt at rifle, specifically 30-30.

First, these are going to be running in two different rifles, a mid 20's ish 1893, and a newer mid '80s(?) 30AS. Im hoping for a generic fun plinking round that wont stress either rifle, but will be a fun shoot.

What I have so far, are the Hornady Interlock 150 RN bullet, random stamped brass but most are from what I have shot out of the box from the store. I have IMR4895 powder and Winchester large rifle primers.

I would like to run all 100 rounds, but I understand I should do a few and test them, so I will be sure to do that first. I have cleaned and inspected the brass, but I have yet to check their length; is that a must do?

After that I suspect about 30-33 gr of powder. Would less powder produce a more mild, but just as fun (predictable accuracy)?

I guess my main question is, what other detail am I missing that I really should pay attention to?
What do I need to really watch during reloading? Im going to measure each charge specifically, but is there something else I should really pay attention to in the process?

So far, this has been a great learning experience, and I love not worrying about going to the range with only 25 rounds left out of a box (pistol), or 5 or so from a box of rifle. I can just go and shoot as I please and stop when I please. :)

I know a there is a lot to take in depending on the gun, and powder, and bullet vs temp/humidity/elevation, but I dont want to under do it, or especially over do it.

Thanks
 

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Get you a Lyman reloading manual #49 and read it until you understand what you need to do, all your questions will be answered and if you are still not sure of some thing ask here again.You need to learn the real basics before you get too involved . After almost 60 years even I don't have ALL the answers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Get you a Lyman reloading manual #49 and read it until you understand what you need to do, all your questions will be answered and if you are still not sure of some thing ask here again.You need to learn the real basics before you get too involved . After almost 60 years even I don't have ALL the answers. :tee:
What??? there are more answers than years??? Dang It!!

I have that exact manual, as well as the one that came with the Lee classic turret kit I have. I just like getting feed back from people to assure me that what Ive read/learned is actually correct. I have been known to misinterpret things. :)
 

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Read the manual than read it again.

One important thing, because you are reloading that same caliber for 2 different rifles, full length resize the brass. Than check length of brass and trim to correct size. I would make a couple of rounds, no powder, no primer, and work them through the action of both rifles to check function.
Be safe, don't hurry, no drinking, no smoking, no TV. no distractions keep girl friend out of room
:flute:
 

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Oh and if you are plinking, pick up some cast bullets gas checked and non-gas checked. that will save you a lot of cash. If you go this route, be sure to get a Lyman "M" die and possibly a Lee factory crimp die, you may need one or both. Cast bullets are usually larger in diameter and depending on the die set you have it may or may not have a die that "bells" the case mouth. If your die does not bell the case mouth you will need the Lyman "M" to do that....then there is the "crimping" again, depending on your die set you may have this covered. but if you don't, you'll want the Lee die since you ALWAYS want at least a moderate crimp in a tubeular mag! Oh, and you should ALWAYS measure you brass before loading it. I always fully resize my brass as well...mostly because I don't think I have any single rifle for a caliber...well maybe one. :)
 

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I can't really offer a lot of advice regarding a 'plinking' load using jacketed bullets, as I don't go that route. However, a quick glance at my Lyman 30cal data sheet shows 26.5gr-30.0gr IMR4895 with a 150gr Jacketed RN, which means your "...suspect about 30-33 gr of powder" would be starting at max load & increasing to 3gr over max. Even if it were a safe load, I certainly wouldn't think that fit your expectations of "not stressing either rifle", & I wouldn't call that a 'plinking' load by any stretch of the imagination. If you're looking for cheap, light-recoiling loads for plinking/target shooting, I would have to second Mazer's suggestion of looking into cast bullets. And just in case you haven't seen it, there's also an entire thread devoted to the subject of lighter bullets in the 30-30 right HERE in the reloading stickies.

There's also a wealth of information over on the 'CastBoolits' forum if you're at all interested in the cast bullet option. IMR4895 will work for midweight cast bullets as well, although most cast 'plinking' loads would use much less of a much faster pistol/shotgun powder (ie 7gr TrailBoss, 10gr Unique, etc.)
 

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Your at the right place.. these guys can help.. FYI get more than one manual.... lyman.. speer... ect. ect..There will be differences on loads.. it will be up to you to determine which one is for your gun.. that's the fun part.. :biggrin: YouTube is a good source too.... Good luck on your journey of reloading and welcome to the addiction . :tee:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I can't really offer a lot of advice regarding a 'plinking' load using jacketed bullets, as I don't go that route. However, a quick glance at my Lyman 30cal data sheet shows 26.5gr-30.0gr IMR4895 with a 150gr Jacketed RN, which means your "...suspect about 30-33 gr of powder" would be starting at max load & increasing to 3gr over max. Even if it were a safe load, I certainly wouldn't think that fit your expectations of "not stressing either rifle", & I wouldn't call that a 'plinking' load by any stretch of the imagination. If you're looking for cheap, light-recoiling loads for plinking/target shooting, I would have to second Mazer's suggestion of looking into cast bullets. And just in case you haven't seen it, there's also an entire thread devoted to the subject of lighter bullets in the 30-30 right HERE in the reloading stickies.

There's also a wealth of information over on the 'CastBoolits' forum if you're at all interested in the cast bullet option. IMR4895 will work for midweight cast bullets as well, although most cast 'plinking' loads would use much less of a much faster pistol/shotgun powder (ie 7gr TrailBoss, 10gr Unique, etc.)
Honestly, I just grabbed a box of bullets just to get started. :)

I have a bunch of cast for the handguns, and when I get to it, I will look for them for the riles as well.
 

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"30 to 33 grains of powder". I got pretty excited and scared for you when I thought you might just grab a can of Bullseye!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
"30 to 33 grains of powder". I got pretty excited and scared for you when I thought you might just grab a can of Bullseye!
:))

Thats how I ended up with a can of 700x.

Ive been waiting for a trip to the city, or hoping a local group would get some good rifle powder, I found this 4895 today.
 

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I have used Lee dies, RCBS dies and Forster dies for loading the 30-30 and if I mixed them all up I could not tell you which were loaded with which dies.

IMR4895 is a good powder for loading the 30-30 but I like IMR3031 and Leverevolution better.
Do not load below published load data minimum powder charges when possible. Hodgdon recommends a charge range of 31.5gr to 33.5gr of IMR4895 under a 150gr jacketed bullet. Start low and work up trying to find the most accurate load. The problems start when a book (like Lyman) gives you a starting load of 26.5gr and a Max of 30 of IMR4895 but Hodgdon has a starting load over the max of Lyman. In that case I average the 2 and use that data unless a different OAL can explain the differences. Speer #12 says 27.0gr to 31.0gr.0gr.

If you really want to have plinking fun buy a 165gr lead bullet from Missouri bullets and throw it over 21.0gr 4895 and see how much fun that load is! I can shoot empty shotgun shells @50 yards with a Marlin levergun. You can also use 4198 and even Trail Boss if you have any available.
 

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Okay, according to Hornady's spec the 150grn with IMR-3031 is 26.6(1900fps) to 31.4gr(2200fps) so you can see depending on your source material it can vary a bit. I'd be starting in the 26gr area and see how that does. I have checked a few sources and I don't see 3031 used for any cast bullets....so as mentioned it may be a good idea not to use it for slower speed "plinking". I use IMR-4198, it's faster burning and you can load that down quite a ways.
Once you get your powder figured out then work on the bullet...by weight and by intended use. Oh, and shape, there are differences!
For example:
Best value for target round (plinker) and I define a target round as anything going at a speed under what is necessary for a gas check...so say under 1500fps:
Missouri Bullets makes a 135gr bullet for approx $54 for a 250ct.
Western Bullets makes a 150gr bullet for $12/100ct
Oregon Trail makes a 170gr bullet for $66.50/500ct
Acme makes a 155gr bullet for $12/100ct
Going Ballistics makes a 165gr bullet for $14/100ct
For gas checked bullets (for 1500fps+):
Bear Tooth Bullet: 140gr $23.50/100ct, 160gr $23.50/100ct, 173gr $23.50/100ct
Leadheads: 149gr $58/250ct
Meister: 165gr $21.43/100ct
Moyers: 150gr $20.80/100ct, 173gr/$21/100ct
Rimrock: 155gr $22/100ct
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have used Lee dies, RCBS dies and Forster dies for loading the 30-30 and if I mixed them all up I could not tell you which were loaded with which dies.

IMR4895 is a good powder for loading the 30-30 but I like IMR3031 and Leverevolution better.
Do not load below published load data minimum powder charges when possible. Hodgdon recommends a charge range of 31.5gr to 33.5gr of IMR4895 under a 150gr jacketed bullet. Start low and work up trying to find the most accurate load. The problems start when a book (like Lyman) gives you a starting load of 26.5gr and a Max of 30 of IMR4895 but Hodgdon has a starting load over the max of Lyman. In that case I average the 2 and use that data unless a different OAL can explain the differences. Speer #12 says 27.0gr to 31.0gr.0gr.

If you really want to have plinking fun buy a 165gr lead bullet from Missouri bullets and throw it over 21.0gr 4895 and see how much fun that load is! I can shoot empty shotgun shells @50 yards with a Marlin levergun. You can also use 4198 and even Trail Boss if you have any available.


Thank you, Ive been looking, although not regularly, for something like that. I will put that on the list for the next order.
 

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Hey ZZ,

Since (as previous poster states) you will be loading for multiple rifles, full length sizing is in order.

A can of Imperial Sizing Wax will greatly help.

Also, have found uniforming the primer pockets and flash holes greatly enhances accuracy.

Later, Mark
 
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Even if you're shooting only one rifle but that rifle is a levergun you should always full length size. Any ammo made for leverguns need to be full length sized.
 

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When loading for a single rifle I neck size all the time when speaking of leverguns. It works quite well,and there is no reason why it should not.

Before formulating any reply to my comment, first remember the low pressure levels leverguns operate under. This fact alone throws the need to full length size every time for the same rifle out the window.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok, heres the final skinny...

Just in case, im using a lee turret, set as a single stage, and the lee rile set.

I full length sized, especially since I wouldnt know how to do otherwise with this die set, easy set the primer.

Weighed out 30gr (remember its IMR4895 which my loading manual says starting is 31) Should be ok right?

set the bullet depth for an OAL of 2.55 although one turned out at 2.54 for some reason... another 'should be ok' right?

I did three, will that be enough to make a decent judgement on the load? Or should i do a few more?
 

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I would do a few more, if the first ones don't group you can always pull them apart. Make sure you keep track of what powder is in the case so it never gets mixed up. Also, I would load ,say,6 more at 31gr and so on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I would do a few more, if the first ones don't group you can always pull them apart. Make sure you keep track of what powder is in the case so it never gets mixed up. Also, I would load ,say,6 more at 31gr and so on.
Yeah, I marked the cases with the grains just in case. lol

I wondered if anyone else did such a thing.
 
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