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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks,
I hooked up my boat and went to do some fishing at a local lake after work, today.
We have road construction season going on and it happens that the uneven roads targeted my boat trailer.
I saw that after a particularly nasty pitch and roll of the roadway, my boat was swaying more than normal.
The frame gave up the ghost on the starboard side of the trailer. It looks like rust had rotted it through and that it was only held together by a few strands of solid steel.
After a full inspection, I do not think this trailer is going to be repaired. The rust is extensive. But at 21 years old, and being hauled all over the states, I will not complain.
Do a careful inspection for any rot. I am happy I made it home without the boat being destroyed.
Andrew
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I see a lot of rusted trailers near the coast, the couple of guys I know that have boats also have aluminum trailers to help fight the salt water. It don't bother me since I paddle a kayak.

You were lucky that your boat didn't end up in oncoming traffic.
 

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Yep! Seen plenty of trailers here in south Louisiana, rusty and needing repairs. Some owners just don't care! Glad you didn't lose boat, or cause a accident.

ca'jun56
 

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Hi folks,
I hooked up my boat and went to do some fishing at a local lake after work, today.
We have road construction season going on and it happens that the uneven roads targeted my boat trailer.
I saw that after a particularly nasty pitch and roll of the roadway, my boat was swaying more than normal.
The frame gave up the ghost on the starboard side of the trailer. It looks like rust had rotted it through and that it was only held together by a few strands of solid steel.
After a full inspection, I do not think this trailer is going to be repaired. The rust is extensive. But at 21 years old, and being hauled all over the states, I will not complain.
Do a careful inspection for any rot. I am happy I made it home without the boat being destroyed.
Andrew
View attachment 849625
View attachment 849626
View attachment 849627

And that my friends..is why my boat trailer..is aluminum! Yeow-chie!
 
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My friend built a nice boat trailer and it looked really good being unpainted and all and I noticed a fitting behind each fender on the trailer and he showed me what they were for. He could take his boat jack off the tongue of the trailer and a fitting on the jack snapped into the fitting on the frame of the trailer behind the fender so f he had a flat on his trailer he could conveiently snap in the jack and jack up his trailer. They may have these fittings on boat trailers but I had never noticed them before. I thought it was a good idea. This has nothing to do with corrosion but maybe help someone with their boat trailer
 

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A, yep, not going to be able to fix that unless you can weld in a lot of new steel. If it failed there, probably other places getting ready to fail too. You are a lucky man it held together well enough to get home. Oh boy!
Vince
 

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About 20 yrs back we were heading North on 81 towards the 1000 Islands about 8 pm one June.
Heading South to the left of us was a motor home pulling a good sized trailer and boat.

Unbeknownst to the driver, an entire hub and tire had broke off the trailer on the driver side and the axel was dragging the pavement at about 65mph.
Rooster Tail of Sparks shooting behind 20 ft in the air!

Not sure how much further they went before they realized it.

o_Oo_Oo_O
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay Guys,
I have to ask all you bubbas out there, what is the best way for me to temporarily fix this trailer, so that I can get it to my nearest lake to unload the boat. The łake is a ten minute trip on the back roads.
The broken rails integrity is probably 50% just before the tow bar. I was thinking of using 3/4 plywood and several 1/2" bolts on either side, to sandwich the rail after jacking it into alignment.
I am open to suggestions.
Andrew
 
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Hey A,

Get a couple pieces of 1/4" x 4" flat bar. About 10" long.

Drill about 4 or 5 3/8" holes in flat bar. (can get it at the scrap yard, used by the truckload as "kick plate" by the Ironworker)

C Clamp to frame. Drill vertical side of frame. Jack busted leg up to match. Drill that side. Now sandwich frame with two pieces of flat bar. (don't worry about top or bottom, most stress is on the vertical....) Use 3/8" bolts with nylon stop nuts. This will get you to lake to off load boat.

Technique is called "fish plate" or "fish plating".

Later, Mark
 

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Okay Guys,
I have to ask all you bubbas out there, what is the best way for me to temporarily fix this trailer, so that I can get it to my nearest lake to unload the boat. The łake is a ten minute trip on the back roads.
The broken rails integrity is probably 50% just before the tow bar. I was thinking of using 3/4 plywood and several 1/2" bolts on either side, to sandwich the rail after jacking it into alignment.
I am open to suggestions.
Andrew
6 of the large plastic wires ties...a piece of pressure treated 2x4x2' and half a roll of the black duct tape! BAM, 10 minutes and you'll be heading back to the boat ramp! Cain't believe I'm the first ******* engineer on here to think of it! 😁

Edit to add...I did not post "***"...guess the "new" software doesn't allow "red-neck " without the hyphen! Got no problem bein' called a red-neck...unhyphenated! Who else could come up with some fine engineering like that!😁
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
6 of the large plastic wires ties...a piece of pressure treated 2x4x2' and half a roll of the black duct tape! BAM, 10 minutes and you'll be heading back to the boat ramp! Cain't believe I'm the first *** engineer on here to think of it! 😁

Edit to add...I did not post "***"...guess the "new" software doesn't allow "red-neck " without the hyphen! Got no problem bein' called a red-neck...unhyphenated! Who else could come up with some fine engineering like that!😁
#******* Strong!
Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Folks,
I have adjusted my new to me, used trailer, that I managed to get for $450.
This trailer is also a Shorelander, but it is a model that is older than my previous one, and is made from a higher gauge steel.
My question for you all is this:
Should the rear rollers be directly under the point where the transom meets the hull? Presently, I have the rear rollers 3” from the stern.
I want to make sure I have enough weight forward with this trailer. The wheels are more in the middle, whereas the wheels on my broken trailer were more rearward.
850235

850236
850237
 
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I would replace the rollers with bunks. Supports the boat much better. Otherwise I would pull it up some so there is no overhang.

Padraig
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I would replace the rollers with bunks. Supports the boat much better. Otherwise I would pull it up some so there is no overhang.

Padraig
I prefer the rollers over bunks, due to launching and recovering, usually alone. I don’t have to submerge the trailer completely, with the rollers.
I will adjust the boat three inches forward and see how that works.
thanks much,
Andrew
 
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