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Discussion Starter #1
Want to shorten the magazine tube on my 336, eliminate the upper band like an xlr.

Looking at the base of the tube it looks to be a pretty simple cut and chamfer job.

For those who have done this how much did you cut off?

Did you cut the mag spring as well?

What else do I need to know?

Thanks, Matt.
 

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Shortening it is as simple as you describe. Keeping it in place after shortening takes a bit more work. The neatest way to accomplish this is to dovetail the barrel and get a magazine tube stud such as is used on the SC model, and use a longer magazine cap screw to secure the tube. Without this or some other method of attachment the tube will move forward under recoil.

And yes, you shorten the spring as well, unless you don't mind losing one cartridge's worth of capacity.
 

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Attaching the mag tube after is the thing and as described using a dovetail is a good way to go.

If you don't have a forward sling swivel attachement, just get a dovetail blank like for filling a slot when the rear sight is removed, next you get an Uncle Mikes sling swivel kit for a bolt action, at your local Wal Mart or other source.

Shorten the tube, figure where the magtube plugs screw hole is the center of where you want to cut the dovetail.

Install the dovetail, line up the screw hole in the mag tube and using a drill that just fits through the mag tube, spot the dovetail blank with the drill.

Remove the blank drill and tap it for 10-32 (same size as the Uncle Mikes forward sling swivel) (check the nut for size)

Install the mag tube plug, drill it clear through with a body drill so the 10-32 stud will fit through it.

Figure if you go from say 20 inch to 16 inch would be reducing the mag tube 20% or 1/5 lay out your mag tube spring and measure it, if it is say 30 inches long reduce it by 1/5 or 6 inches, close is good enough.

Put it back together and install.
 

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You could eliminate that band & keep 99.9% of your tube without having the forward screw reliefe showing. If removing the band is your primary objective. You can just cut a dovetail for a hanger right where the band now sits, shorten the tube by an inch or two and either drill out the cap or get a rifle type. The XLR uses a rifle type set up, the tube cap isn't drilled all the way thru but bottoms out on the stud dovetailed into the barrel. So if you drill it dont drill clear thru, otherwide the stud has nothing to tighten against until the tube hits the barrel. If you want to shorten the tube you can cut it any lenth you want. I'v never cut one except to fit to a new barrel & just cut it to fit where the dovetail in the barrel is.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the great replies. Got the tube cut down and filed square today. Used the simple calc swany described to cut the spring as well. Re-installed and everything fits great, feeds well and holds four in the tube, plenty for me.

Now I need to attach the tube to the action. I would prefer not to attach it to the barrel, but the action itself. Threading the tube and the boss it fits into would work, but is probably more work than it's worth. Has anyone looked into brazing, or using an epoxy to hold the tube in place so as to eliminate any contact with the barrel?
 

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I wouldn't go with any permanent or semi-permanent attachment to the receiver -- sooner or later, you will want or need to get it off.
 

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Bonding the magazine tube to the receiver is, IMHO, a bad idea. Well, it would be for me because it gets wet inside or has the potential to and being able to remove the thing makes it much easier to dry out and keep clean.

T-C
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There are pros and cons to be sure. By bonding the barrel to the receiver and not the barrel you eliminate any stress points. The disadvantage of course that unless you use threads, a pin etc the mag tube will have to be cleaned like a barrel. Seems like removing the cap, spring and plunger would let you run patches down it.
 

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mattri said:
There are pros and cons to be sure. By bonding the barrel to the receiver and not the barrel you eliminate any stress points. The disadvantage of course that unless you use threads, a pin etc the mag tube will have to be cleaned like a barrel. Seems like removing the cap, spring and plunger would let you run patches down it.
Yes, it would let you run patches down the tube. It also lets you push gunk into the action. I'd rather not have to whip out a strap wrench to dry out my mag tube but I still want to be able to dry it and clean it while divorced from the action. The barrel isn't such a big issue here because I take the bolt out and clean it from the breech.

T-C
 

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The way to go is the way Swany told you to do it. Why do you think Marlin attaches the tube to the barrel? Because that's the way it needs to be done.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The plan is to keep the mag tube off the barrel- have a cple ideas to try, will post pics when I can.
 

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By now you've seen that groove in the bbl to accomodate the mag tube. If I wanted to do what you are wanting, I would first clean out that groove with an abrasive and do the same to the area of the mag tube, then JB Weld it in place. That can be undone with heat and you would never know because all the work is under the fore end hidden. If you epoxied it the full length of that groove you could hang your fore stock from the mag tube and have it free floated. I would consider getting an extra piece of wood and glue it to the action where it mates and see how it goes.

I too have considered doing this but just have not as of yet!! I am considering a major mod to my latest 336 but just don't have the time to dedicate yet.

Too much time for my DJ business it's wedding season on single folks and I'm bagging a few with my minister license. ;D ;D
 

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Discussion Starter #15


Eliminating the upper band and floating the lower has absolutely helped. The rifle is much more consistant now.
 

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i've read it here several times, and i've done it to some of mine, but if you back off band screws a little to where they are not tight, but snug. it has made mine shoot alot more consistant.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
That helped, but taking it completely off made a world of difference. Probably hasn't made a huge "real-world hunting level of accuracy" but its been a lot of fun and I like it much better this way.
 

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If you can make the tube wiggle it's perfect .. and it can be done . using the bands you can change the harmonics and fine tune the load you like also.. only doing a small amount of tightening and one at a time only..
 
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