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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Quick simple question...but I ask because I've heard mixed opinions...so the majority will rule here.

I know harsh solvents (Shooters Choice, etc.) will damage the polymer "lower" on Camp Carbines, BUT good old Hoppes #9 Solvent doesn't harm a thing on them, right???

I've just used dish soap/water in the past, but just using the same solvent (#9) I use on my other guns would make life a bit easier. What's the word?


Thanks
 

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I have used Hoppes and CLP on 4 Camp's with out any problem. I used the soap and water only when I did a first time tear down and the plastic trigger group was thick with 10 years of gunk for not being cleaned. Just don't use Bore cleaner or copper and lead solvent. If you have to check, first pick a non important (and hidden) part of the trigger group and just use a drop of the unknown solvent as a test.
 

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Gents - one item to never use on the Camp 9 lower is "Crud Cutter" from Outers. I acquired a Camp 9 in bad shape. After breaking the bolt free and disassembling the gun I used oil and "Crud Cutter" to cut the gunk away from the bolt and trigger group. Now I'm slowly sanding the plastic parts of the lower that received pitting from using Cutter. Do not use this on any plastic parts.
 

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I had a basket case camp 45 that had been shot but not cleaned in 15 years (my guess) that looked like the black gunk had warts. I took all the metal parts off the trigger group and soaked (only the plastic trigger housing) in warm water with a little Dawn Dishwashing soap. The solution cut the grease down to the plastic and did not harm the plastic. The key was to rinse the soap off and dry the plastic parts including the spring wells (found in several places) on the trigger housing.
 

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hoppes #9 is all I use on all my guns. there is better I`m sure but nothing replaces good maintenance
 

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Gents - one item to never use on the Camp 9 lower is "Crud Cutter" from Outers. ... Do not use this on any plastic parts.
The product discription kind of says it all about plastic...

"This effective cleaner quickly blasts away of grease, dirt and oil build-ups, while softening powder and plastic wad residue. It dries quickly without residue, leaving metal clean and free of debris. This product is also effective at removing plastic fouling from choke tubes."
 

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Hey Mush,

Ya sound a little bit too much like the misses when she said, "Did you read the label"? Of course I didn't read the label. It said "Crud Cutter" and that's what I had, crud! So I used it like I thought it should be used, liberty and all over. A little elbow grease and some steel wool and life will be good. Actually, because of the 'mistake' I'm carefully sanding and luring every part of the gun and will refinish the stock too. I want her to look factory new when I'm done. These guns are great and I've often wondered why Marlin decide to stop manufacture.
 

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Mr. Ed. Sorry, occupational hazard. I have to read Material Safety Data Sheets at work. The Camp Carbines are not easy with solvents and need care on what you use. The only reason I was able to save myself from the same fate was I got a Camp Carbine that I was told "wasn't working anymore" a couple years ago and had to research what they look like inside before I tore into it. I read some comments about the plastic not liking harsh chemicals and decided to try the best grease cutter I know that won't dissolve plastic, dishwashing soap. Through trial and error I have erred too much and it gets expensive and there is that trip to the emergency room for a couple stiches. So I felt your pain, over and over again.

It sounds like you will have a "new" carbine here soon with a "rustic" look that you meant to do it that way. That is the story I would stick to......
 

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Mush, no apologies needed. Patience should have been my friend. now experience is my close companion. Actually I'm enjoying spending a few hours at a time carefully polishing and cleaning the action, slide, etc. The bear is the bolt. It was in bad shape. I'm carefully scrubbing it with steel wool and, where it's bad, a Dremil with a wire brush head on super low speed. I've taken the weapon apart as far as I will go (not taking apart the trigger group, yet) and cleaning every part. She should be like new when I'm done. I'm also stripping the stock and refinishing it too. I'm adding a Weaver red/green holographic scope too. Pictures coming when she's done.
 

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I spent a while trying to figure out the best way to clean my Camp's trigger group, and after screwing up and using Gunscrubber (which I think contributed to my feed ramp failure and then me having to do the trigger tear down and rebuild), I've learned a really effective, easy, and safe way to clean out the trigger group......

Get the water running real hot from the sink and fill a plastic tray. Add lots of hand dish soap and soak. Use some old toothbrushes to scrub after soaking for a while. Blow out with compressed air and then lube her up with some CLP. :biggrin:

Works like a charm, and it's cheap too!
 

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Trigger guard/mag well assy

I ordered a spare trigger guard/mag well assembly last week from Numrich and it came in the mail today. And low and behold but it is the new style with bolt hold-open cut.:biggrin: This is great because now I can use all of the hardware from my old one if I ever need to use the new one.
 

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I know this is an old thread about cleaning, but have any of you ever cleaned something with hot water and soap. Then rinsed it with water as hot as you dared, then put it into the freezer? It is funny how dry the part is when you take it out about 20 minutes later. I have cleaned parts and put them on the back step on a very cold day and they cooled off and dried quickly. Just my 2 cents worth.
 

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I have used Dawn dishwashing soap and hot water on a stripped down Trigger Guard then dried in the sun with success, but not the freezer part.
 
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