Hoppe's #9 on Wood?

21558 Views 19 Replies 12 Participants Last post by Anachronism, Mar 2, 2011

ERock

Discussion Starter · Mar 1, 2011

Was cleaning the gun last night and I was using the Hoppe's #9 solvent and gun oil lubricant from Hoppe's. I rubbed a little bit of lubricant on the wood and wiped it down. Later I was told that it isn't good for the wood and makes it brittle.

Is this true? Are there only certain oils or certain treatments I should use on the wood with these Marlin's? Especially the older ones?

Just want to make sure I take proper care of my rifle for the future.

Thanks!

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

JBledsoe

· #2 · Mar 1, 2011

.

I use Howard's Feed and Wax on my old gun wood, it makes the metal shine, too. The product contains lemon oil and bee's wax, and can be found in any antique shop.

Hoppe's has never hurt any gun wood that I know about but it doesn't do it any good either. I will darken the wood over time.

LuckenbachTexas

· #3 · Mar 1, 2011

Sir,

Once you use Boretech you'll throw the rest in the trash. I had a bottle sitting around for two years then I had some spots in my Sig barrel that my regular routine wouldn't clean (I must have scrubbed it 100 times with #9 solvent and a brush) so I tried boretech on a patch without even scrubbing and it was gone in two wipes.

I threw the other stuff out. Boretech is supposed to be safe and won't hurt wood.

ERock

Discussion Starter · #4 · Mar 1, 2011

LuckenbachTexas said:
Sir,

One you use Boretech you'll throw the rest in the trash. I had a bottle sitting around for two years then I had some spots in my Sig barrel that my regular routine wouldn't clean (I must have scrubbed it 100 times with #9 solvent and a brush) so I tried boretech on a patch without even scrubbing and it was gone in two wipes.

I threw the other stuff out. Boretech is supposed to be safe and won't hurt wood.

Do they only sell Boretech online or can you pick it up from any sporting goods store (Dunham's, Dick's, Gander, Bass Pro, etc...)

Travis 186

· #5 · Mar 1, 2011

Ballistol is ok for wood. I love that stuff.

skwirl

· #6 · Mar 1, 2011

They got a whole dadgum web site

http://www.boretech.com/

ERock

Discussion Starter · #7 · Mar 1, 2011

skwirl said:
They got a whole dadgum web site

http://www.boretech.com/

Shoooodang. No dealers in Michigan. Guess I gotta order online.

hammertime

· #8 · Mar 1, 2011

+1 on the Howard's Feed N Wax for the older wood. Not to shiny when dry and buffed. I think it is orange oil, not lemon... but either way it works good on the wood and wont affect metal

Halwg

· #9 · Mar 1, 2011

You should really not use any solvents on wood. Most of the time it's probably not going to hurt the wood or finish if some gets on it as you are cleaning, but it should be avoided as much as possible. It can damage bot the finish and wood fibers depending on the composition of the solvent, so it's just best to avoid it.

CITYSLICKER1

· #10 · Mar 1, 2011

186 Tmanbuckhunter said:
Ballistol is ok for wood. I love that stuff.

I use Ballistol looks and works great!

Travis 186

· #11 · Mar 1, 2011

Halwg said:
You should really not use any solvents on wood. Most of the time it's probably not going to hurt the wood or finish if some gets on it as you are cleaning, but it should be avoided as much as possible. It can damage bot the finish and wood fibers depending on the composition of the solvent, so it's just best to avoid it.

+1

Never get solvents on the wood, they can weaken it or damage the finish. Certain oils like ballistol are OK if they say so on the bottle.

Cajun

· #12 · Mar 1, 2011

186 Tmanbuckhunter said:
Ballistol is ok for wood. I love that stuff.

+1 that is what I use!!!!

Rachethead

· #13 · Mar 1, 2011

+2; never use a solvent on a wood finish; although a small dab of Hoppe's probably won't hurt a good finish, it will have it's impact over time. For the furniture on my guns, I use Old English polish and scratch cover; good for the wood, and will indeed "cover" small scratches and finish imperfections.

LuckenbachTexas

· #14 · Mar 1, 2011

I thought Boretech was on the shelves everywhere? Anyway, works great. I thought it was a bit expensive when I bought it but wished I would've used it sooner.

ERock

Discussion Starter · #15 · Mar 2, 2011

Halwg said:
You should really not use any solvents on wood. Most of the time it's probably not going to hurt the wood or finish if some gets on it as you are cleaning, but it should be avoided as much as possible. It can damage bot the finish and wood fibers depending on the composition of the solvent, so it's just best to avoid it.

I never used the solvent on there. Just the gun oil.

Rachethead

· #16 · Mar 2, 2011

It's not a good idea to use gun oil on wood either, as exposed wood (wood that has no finish such as inletted areas, or has lost it's finish from wear, scratches, etc) absorbs wood. Oil saturated wood fibers become soft and punky; and when you see a stock with blackened and deteriorated areas around the tangs, that damage is nearly always due to excessive oiling of the metal (a gun is oiled and stored on its butt, gravity pulls the excess oil towards the head of the stock; and it is then absorbed into the wood around un-sealed inletted areas), When you see a used gun on the sales rack with black stains around the edges of the frame and tangs, and black streaks flowing thru the wrist of the stock (and sometimes on past the comb of the stock); those stains are the result of oil absorption. I use oil sparingly on my guns; but always store my guns with muzzles down just to be on the safe side.

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Bob A

· #17 · Mar 2, 2011

I looked at the Boretech website. They have 3 or 4 different solvents, which one do you guys use?

Bob A

LuckenbachTexas

· #18 · Mar 2, 2011

Elliminator. I still oil with old Breakfree or Rem-oill. All my stuff is stainless though.

ERock

Discussion Starter · #19 · Mar 2, 2011

Rachethead said:
It's not a good idea to use gun oil on wood either, as exposed wood (wood that has no finish such as inletted areas, or has lost it's finish from wear, scratches, etc) absorbs wood. Oil saturated wood fibers become soft and punky; and when you see a stock with blackened and deteriorated areas around the tangs, that damage is nearly always due to excessive oiling of the metal (a gun is oiled and stored on its butt, gravity pulls the excess oil towards the head of the stock; and it is then absorbed into the wood around un-sealed inletted areas), When you see a used gun on the sales rack with black stains around the edges of the frame and tangs, and black streaks flowing thru the wrist of the stock (and sometimes on past the comb of the stock); those stains are the result of oil absorption. I use oil sparingly on my guns; but always store my guns with muzzles down just to be on the safe side.

Yeah, I placed the gun muzzle down after cleaning it.

I will look into these different oils next time. Thanks everyone for the great info. A huge help with tons of knowledge as usual. ;D

Anachronism

· #20 · Mar 2, 2011

LuckenbachTexas said:
Once you use Boretech you'll throw the rest in the trash. I had a bottle sitting around for two years then I had some spots in my Sig barrel that my regular routine wouldn't clean (I must have scrubbed it 100 times with #9 solvent and a brush) so I tried boretech on a patch without even scrubbing and it was gone in two wipes.

I threw the other stuff out. Boretech is supposed to be safe and won't hurt wood.

Dangit! Now that I read that I had to go and order some. Y'all are a bad influence on my checkbook...

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

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