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Discussion Starter #1
I tend to look for the "beaters" when I am at the funshows. They are usually priced right, and many times they are overlooked because of their appearance or that they don't function as well as they could.
Often times a good cleaning is all that is needed to bring that sorrowful old dog back to life.

We all have our favorite cleaning solutions. I have to say I am starting to use alcohol more and more to clean my guns. It is cheap, most of us have a bottle in the house, and I find that a bowl of alcohol, a toothbrush and an old t-shirt or piece of cotton will have all of the gunk inside that action gone in a jiffy.
Dries completely away, so be sure and put some oil in there after you finish. I have found it does no harm to bluing, or case coloring.
I have been pleasantly surprised at how well it will clean a gun.
Try it. you have little to lose.
 

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The problem with drug store rubbing alcohol is that it contains water. If you're going to use it as cleaning solvent, make sure you oil well afterwards.

If you feel the need to use alcohol, buy straight isopropyl alcohol from the hardware store.
 

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I bought surgical grade alcohol, I think the purist you can get. It is more expensive than others. Using the cheap stuff to degunk isn't a problem since you with be drying and oiling anyway. For really gunked up guns I remove the wood and start will gasoline. It will cut cosmoline from pre WW2. It would take a lot of elbow grease with any alcohol to do that. Gunk is making solvents that are good too but cost more than gas but don't have flammable fumes. Anything you strip a gun with will take lube with it. Some solvents have to be rinsed with water to stop their cleaning action.
 

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I use cheap isopropyl to swab out my barrel after cleaning it with powerful solvent. I dry patch and oil afterwards. I think it gets more of the solvent out of the lands / grooves than just dry patching, but I don't know that it does....
 

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Alcohol is hygroscopic. It will begin to collect water vapor from the air as soon as the container is opened. When alcohol is distilled, it cannot be concentrated beyond approximately 90% because of the water that follows with it. But alcohol will also accelerate the evaporation of whatever water may be dissolved in it, or what water it may mix with. This is not necessarily a problem, as long as the metal is dry when you are done. After all, we clean our black powder arms with water, and just make sure they are dry.

And yes, oil afterward, both for rust protection and lubrication.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
And I thought I was on to something! LOL
I have learned to always leave a film of some kind of lube behind after I clean a gun. I'm really liking Remoil.
 

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Alcohol..............Never tried it on my firearms, but it makes my ice cubes disappear!.............

OK.......I guess I'll give it a try in cleaning firearms.........

Tom
 

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Believe it or not, one of the best solvents and gun cleaners that I've found is Diesel fuel. Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel is good, but if you can get your hands on some F-76 or JP-5 (military grade fuels) oooohh boy. I used to ask my engineers to save me a small quantity of JP5 from their clear and bright tests of fuel during flight quarters. It was going in the dirty oil tank any way... just some of it found its way into an empty Hoppes bottle.
 

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We use to fill our Zippos with Jet fuel, I think JP-4 back in those days. We always had a can of it around that was scrounged of AF, I think. I might have been what we were using in Hueys. I don't think anyone in RVn bought Lighter fluid, everyone was running jet fuel.
 

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I have only used alcohol to degrease a barrel for cold bluing. Otherwise no. I usually reach for the bottle of Hoppe's #9 for cleaning. been using the stuff for over 30yrs, it gets the job done.
 

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back in the early 70 I hauled gas, transport loads. At Standard oil they were hauling jp4 to St Louis airport, 1 8" line came on the loading dock, Y'ed one side said kerosene, other JP4, the difference was some red die put in the trailer compartments. Yep I'll drink to that!!!
 
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Cleaning is easy for me. I have several ultrasonic cleaners. I have gun cleaners in the ultrasonic cleaner that leave behind a protective barrier once removed. You just add distilled water. I also add a little squirt of Dawn and Purple Power, I also put in some Ballistol. Heat it up and leave it in while I do other stuff. Pull it out, wipe it down and blow it off then a little Remoil. Barrels are the old fashioned way and end with alcohol then Remoil or Ballistol and a final swab until clean. Those ultrasonic cleaners are awesome on bolts. No need to take them apart.

Barreled actions can be stuck receiver side down and it cleans chambers superbly. No elbow grease. One day I'll have one that's about 48" long.

I make a little mad munnie cleaning others guns and its cake 30 bucks for a hand gun and 40 for a rifle.
 

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When I was on a military shooting team we used to dunk our stripped rifles into a 5-gallon bucket of MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone). Nothing worked better at removing carbon. It was great. After a couple of years the powers that be took it away from us. They said it was an environmental hazard. So, we switched to spraying carburetor cleaner profusely on the metal parts till it flowed off in streams. That was allowed even though it must be much more environmentally hazardous. Funny, firing tens of thousands of rounds of ammo and going through cases of pint bottles of bore cleaner and CLP didn't seem to bother them either. I think they just thought "Methyl Ethyl Ketone" sounded bad.
 
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