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Discussion Starter #1
Used 336. 26xxxxxx Flat hammer extension. Weaver rail and a scope. Don't think that rail screws are too long. Bolt s/n matches gun. Fires and ejects fine. As long as the hammer is cocked. Completely stripped and cleaned. Very tight, lightly used gun. If it had 2 boxes of ammo before I got it, I'd be surprised. Well lubed by me. Had a repaired broken stock. I bedded the buttstock with epoxy. I'll try another buttstock the next time out just to make sure nothing is interfering.

Finally took it to the range. Put maybe 50 reloads through it.

About 1 time out of 3 with a cartridge in the tube, it goes to half cock, not cocked, when cycled. Ie, i load it, fire 2 shots no problem, 3rd shot, no bang, look and the hammer is at half cock. Not always the 3rd shot, but you get the idea. If I cycle it slowwwwwwly, it always goes to half cock. Quickly, it rarely goes to half cock. To me, the bolt needs to push the hammer down just a touch more. Not sure how to fix it.

Other oddity was my 170 Speer over 30 grains of 3031 loads, a typically good load in other guns, shot through a clean barrel maybe 30x, sprayed the target. I could not even sight it in with this load, the group was so bad. On the other hand, several cast loads over Trail Boss, that just happened to be in the car, 165 Lasercast, 110 Magnus, store bought .309 bullets, chewed out the bullseye.

I love the idea of a Marlin that is a shooter with factory cast, who needs jacketed, but the half cock thing means that it will never see the field.
 

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Sometimes in the smoothing of the action, folks take a little off the top of the hammer leaving it a bit rounder than it came. The previous owner may have done this and gone too far. If so, two options: new hammer or have the original built back up and re-shaped. Others may come along with other ideas. A photo of the hammer might help, if you have that capability. You do not mention the trigger being exceptionally light, but I suppose an over done stoning on the full cock notch could give the same results. Best wishes, Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The blue is worn off the top of the hammer where it contacts the bolt. Now I'm wondering if it was bubba doing that. How does one build up the hammer?
 

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By welding a small bead on the top of the hammer and then grinding and filing back down to where it should be.

I don;t know if you could do that with a special epoxy. Maybe....I don;t know.
 

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Wreckhog,
Jackthewhanger is on to it!...........

Either the hammer has been filled down too much, or the cam on the rear of the breech bolt has been worked...............I'm betting on the hammer being the culprit.........The condition is known as a "Long Sear"..........You don't say what the trigger is like.........Is there any creep?.........Is it really light?...If NO creep and the trigger is really light, then the hammer has most likely been "Bubba'd"........



There are a couple of ways to cure this........

#1, buy a new hammer, but that's a factory only part, so you'll need an FFL to order it for you.

#2, With a sharp small file, recut the surfaces of the full cock hooks on the existing hammer to raise them up toward the firing pin strike area...........Be VERY careful to maintain squareness of the hooks to the sides of the hammer, and also the original angle of the hooks when doing this fix.

From what you wrote, you won't need to raise the hooks much more than .010 to cure the problem. If you're not comfortable in doing this filing, find a good 'smith and explain the "Long Sear" problem to him.....If he's good,.........he'll know what you mean before you explain............If he doesn't know, go somewhere else.........

I don't think having a good 'smith do this would cost much, It should only take a few minutes, but I don't know where you live, and haven't seen your rifles actual condition.

Another approach would be to stone the top of the sear,but this is a little more involved, to keep the angles correct........Again, all that is needed here is about .010 material removal.

Tom
 

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Would placing a coupel of layers of tape on top of the hammer to see if that would "fix" the prob. before any welding or filling is done work ?
 

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When cocking the hammer with your thumb does it always stay cocked? If not the trigger has been bubba'd! If it does stay cocked it's either the hammer, bolt or both has been bubba'd!
 

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If it has a very light trigger pull, the sear may have been improperly reworked.
When I did a trigger job on mine, I held the sear in a vicegrip to maintain a flat serface.
Lots of good advice here, you'll have to check all possible problems.
Good luck, Terry
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Trigger is decent, but not too light. Hammer cocking always works. Would touch it till Saturday. A bit afraid of filing the hammer. Thank you everyone.
 

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sounds like you have a hammer problem, you can get one from numrich gun parts, or get one from midway. the newer style should work, but i'm not 100% sure.
 

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The newer CBS hammer will NOT fit the '74 tang opening, or the rear of the bolt...........it will be too wide............but can be ground to the correct width on a surface grinder.

Tom
 

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You said it had been "restocked"so before you go messing with the hammer,make sure the hammer strut guide bar is not makeing contact with the new stock some place.Look at the hole drilled into the stock to accept the hammer strut at full cock.If it shows rub marks' remove a little wood with a drill or rat-tailed rasp.I'v seen this before even on new Marlins.
 

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wreckhog, I'd go with mudpuppy's idea first. Check to see if the stock bedding is interferring with cocking, enlarge the hole if needed. What ever you do take it one step at a time, if you do more than one thing at a time you won't know which fixed the problem. If that doesn't cure the problem start with the hammer nad you're probably right, it may have been Bubba'd. Y'all take care, John.
 

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mudpuppy said:
You said it had been "restocked"so before you go messing with the hammer,make sure the hammer strut guide bar is not makeing contact with the new stock some place.Look at the hole drilled into the stock to accept the hammer strut at full cock.If it shows rub marks' remove a little wood with a drill or rat-tailed rasp.I'v seen this before even on new Marlins.

GOOD POINT!
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Same issue even with the buttstock off. Took it apart, put it back together. Problem got worse. Tried epoxying shim to hammer. Impossible due to shape and texture of hammer. Took off hammer extension. The hammer actually jammed under the bolt. Moved hammer spur out a hair. I think that fixed it. Weird.
 

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wreckhog said:
Same issue even with the buttstock off. Took it apart, put it back together. Problem got worse. Tried epoxying shim to hammer. Impossible due to shape and texture of hammer. Took off hammer extension. The hammer actually jammed under the bolt. Moved hammer spur out a hair. I think that fixed it. Weird.
If you're saying that the bolt now rides on the hammer extension, and the hammer extension is made of aluminum. It will not last long.
 
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