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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Got a new 1895. Now its built! New pics at the end! (Build Thread)

Haven't even shot the thing yet... Or even taken pictures!

I bought a 1895, 22inch barrel. I have wanted one for about a decade, and finally bought one.

All of my wood stocked firearms have been tweaked, and this will be no different.

Out of the box, I knew I was going to have to do something about the stock. Fitment and finish was not great, and I am not excited about the checkering.

Aside from re-working the existing stock, which is a viable option, whats out there for replacement stocks for the 1895?

I have also ordered the full size XS sight rail, and the ghost ring backup sights as well.

There will be, arriving to my door shortly, a new Leupold FX-II 2.5x fixed power scope, with the Leupold low, lever ratchet rings.

I'm considering a better butt pad, but I am going to shoot mine first as is to see if I like it.

I'll update this thread as I do stuff.
Zach
 

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Treebone Carving and Macon Gun Stocks make some good stuff.

Can also look on Ebay, Gunbroker, and watch this forum's Trading Post section. Any butt stock will fit but not so of the forearm. You'll need an 1895 forearm and not a CB as they are shorter.
+1 for Macon Gunstocks as stated by Eli Chaps.
Have had excellant results from them and have recommended them to other shooters wanting to get their weapons restocked.
Have them working on two sets of stocks at this moment to replace the wood on some 1886 Browning SRC's that I bought from a forum member.
You can have them do all the work including finishing and checkering (that was my route) or get the wood and do it yourself.
Ms Vicki is a great person to talk to and will help you out with your project or answer any questions that you may have.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
It begins. I'm going to try and use the existing wood for now. As I looked at it, it was a really pretty piece of wood.

So taped up the barrel to prevent scratches.... Scribed some lines on the fore stock. Its going to loose some weight.



I have to say, I'm really unimpressed on the fitment for this rifle. I expect more from an American made piece. My Chinese SKS has better fitting wood.
Part of my aim is fixing some of these gaps...




The fore cap was on REALLY tight. I broke a screwdriver tip trying to remove one of the screws. Had to soak it in penetrating oil before it broke loose.
Turns out the fore stock was cut too long and the factory just jammed it in there instead of trimming it.




The rifle is now broken down into major component parts.

Wood first. Then sights and mechanical improvements.

Zach
 

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It is beyond me how Remington can get away with this crap. These are not Marlins anymore. Piece of CRAP. I wonder how the chamber looks like. And they cost more than a beautiful well kept used one!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I admit, had I seen the rifle in a showroom I would have passed on it.
That said, I paid well under retail through gunbroker.com. And I have wanted one for a long time. I don't regret the purchase in the slightest.
 

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I admit, had I seen the rifle in a showroom I would have passed on it.
That said, I paid well under retail through gunbroker.com. And I have wanted one for a long time. I don't regret the purchase in the slightest.
It's not you. It's the factory!
The problem with the ill fitting buttstock is that the hole for the tang screw is not located properly. The best way to repair this is to plug the old hole with an oak dowel of the same diameter and epoxy. Let it cure well, then drill a new hole in the proper position. For this fit the stock once the hole is sealed and use the tang hole to carefully mark where the new hole goes. Seems that the tang hole should be located 1/16" farther back than where is now. After it is perfect cover the metal parts with 2 layers of clear tape and with infinite patience scrape or sand away all the wood that is proud of the tang and rear action.
Re: The recoils pad. Pachmayr sells one that is called the Old English pad. They come in brown, black and red. Small, medium and large. Usually the medium fits anything. They also come in 2 thicknesses, .80 inch and 1.0 inch. If you have longish arms you may select one that do not require to cut the end of the stock shorter, saving you a hassle. They are soft and rounded and look very classic. Installation is easy, do not reuse the old holes, Plug them and re-drill. The somewhat major pain is grinding the pad after installation to proper contour. You will need access to a disk sander of at least 10 inches in dia. There is a you tube video in how is done. Again wrap the wood side of stock in 2 layers of blue painters tape and grind the pad very carefully. When you get grinding marks on the tape, remove one layer and grind a tad more. Since you are refinishing the whole stock on account of removing wood from the tang area, it is not too critical if you scoff the stock a little with the grinding wheel.
Anybody can do these things, go slow, think before the next action and be patient.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Forend is nearing completion.
It went on a significant diet and has slimmed down quite a bit. Was a nice piece of walnut, with a color change from dark to blond.
Shaped it with my bandsaw and then dremmel and carving knife. Sanded smooth through 320 grit. Stained with 2 coats of Minwax Gunstock colored stain. When that is all dry it will get several coats of pure tung oil.

I'll start stripping the butt stock tonight with airesol citristrip.

Zach
 

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Keep us posted with pics. I have a pre-Rem guide gun, but have long regarded the stock as pretty club-like. Hate the checkering.

I have a mid-90's 1895 LTD, with slim pistol grip and fore-arm, pretty wood, and no checkering....that's what I'd do (except straight stock, of course) with my GG.
 

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I have the same issue on one side of my new 1895. I'll be watching with interest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
PICS!
Stripped down butt stock.

Dunno yet if I will keep the checkering on it. I was going to sand it off, but it is starting to grow on me.
I used Citristrip, and let it set for about 2 hours. It did soften the finish, but I ended up doing what I always do, and scraping the finish off with a dull knife. That woors a LOT better then the stripper, and is less messy.


Butt and fore arm. The fore is stained with Minwax Gunstock color stain. The walnut was two tone, this is the darker side....


And this is the lighter side.
The fore stock still needs to get several coats of tung oil. I MAY do a little more sanding, but probably won't. I'm not building a church, as my old decoy carving mentor always told me....


The fore is a LOT thinner. And the fit is improved ~80%
Also, I installed the XS Lever Rail tonight. Slick as snot on a frog!


I did say it went on a diet... You can also see where the grain changes color.


XS Lever Rail. Really impressed with this piece. Extremely well engineered, and made in the USA. Went on without a single hiccup.


Another shot of the XS Lever Rail.


Ghost ring installed. These will be backup sights for this.....


Leupold Ultralight 2.5x fixed.
Limbsaver grind to fit pad.
I'm still waiting for my Leupold rings... They were supposed to get here on the 15th. Grrrrr.

I also have a set of Uncle Mikes swivels inbound. I intend to use them with a paracord sling. Not going to do the usual cobra stitch, but a 4 or 5 row stich that will look like this:


Thats all the pics I have for now. Probably won't have anything new for a week or so. Running three hobby projects at the same time. The O scale railroad tunnel I am making for my father in law is due in 2 weeks, and I am going on vacation starting friday! WOHOO! But that means the rifle may have to wait for a bit...

Zach
 

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If you haven't sealed the forestock yet, you can probably get pretty close to matching the light side to the dark side by using Min-Wax dark/black walnut stain on the light wood only (stop, of course, at the existing dark wood). Or, I'm sure, there are other dark stains available.
 

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Nice job keep going!
 

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I too just bought a new 45-70 GBL, its a RM stamped Ct. still and hate to say that my stock and forearm fitment looks about like yours. I fixed most of their lack of attention to detail. My action was very rough and the trigger was creepy and heavy. Thanks to the gunsmithing section, the action is now very smooth. The trigger is about 4lbs with no creep at all, thanks to a Wild West trigger/ejector. Installed a spring kit, XS rail, and a Leopold Scout VXR 1.5X5 illuminated reticle. It feeds dummies perfect and even shot a round on the back acre to make sure my reloads went bang. Off to the range tomorrow to make sure she runs good and then will drop it off to get Cerakoted. I've been lurking here for a while and have learned a lot about the rifle as well as some minor gunsmithing, thanks for all the shared knowledge. Have settled on a range load of 13grs of Trail Boss in Starline Nickel cases w/WLR primers and Cast Perf. 405 gr. WLNCGC. That was a very mild round. My hunting round for pigs and bears is the same case and bullet propelled by 40 grs of RL 7, shall see how that thumps me. I did the same action job on my JM 39A and made me fall in love all over again, amazing how quiet those subsonic .22s are. To complete the package I ordered a sling and shell carrier from Levergun. Will post pics once I get her back from the gunsmith.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
So I got my nice, and relatively expensive, Leupold quick release scope rings yesterday...
And they have to go back. They are too low and I can't get my eyes to line up properly with the scope. Totally bummed.:vollkommenauf:

I hopped on Amazon and bought a much cheaper set of Weaver rings (not quick release) that will raise the scope up ~1/4 inch from where it sits now. That ought to put it just about perfect.

I am wondering if I return the quick release rings or save them for a future project. I should return them.

I'm not sure that I want to even the color on the fore end. I actually like the reddish hue the lighter woodgrain gave. After I glass bed the butt stock and stain it, I'll see if it looks goofy and mismatched. If so, I'll darken up the lighter for end side to match.

Ordered my paracord for the sling and lever wrap. Went with 100ft of a weave called "copperhead" which should pull out some reddish color from the stock. Should look really cool.


I also put on the new limbsaver grind to fit pad last night. Today I'll grind down the pad. I wanted to do that before glassing or doing much finishing of the stock. More margin for error that way. :)

The action and trigger on my rifle don't feel all that bad to me. the trigger has a little bit of pull, but is not gritty or sloppy. The action feels smooth, and has fed all my dummy snap cap rounds without a hitch. A little grease and it should be good to go.

On that note, has anyone tried lapping compound to polish and break in the lever and cam? Seems like that would be an efficient way to get a very smooth finish on te meshing internals.

Zach

Zach
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My rifle is back together for the first time since I bought it.
I still have a lot of action smoothing to do, but the stocks are as done as I am going to get them.
I started polishing the lever and carrier with 800 grit paper (wet). I need to polish the bolt, the stop and the ejector.

After the 800gt sand paper I'll buff it really smooth, but not quite mirror. Then the blued parts will get re-blued.

At the moment I am not feeling confident enough to stat messing with the sear or trigger. Maybe later.

Still have not shot it. That needs to happen soon.
Zach
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

its coming along.


I spent most of the day polishing up the action. Wow. What a difference!
The lever, carrier, bold and bolt stop got polished on all bearing surfaces. The bolt is nearly mirror bright. I polished the channel in the bolt with my Dremmel and buffing compound as well as the extractor that rides in the channel. The lever got a lot of love as well. Polished mirror bright were it rides against the receiver and where it contacts the bolt and carrier. I polished the carrier face and lifter. Re-blued the lever, put a little oil on everything and put it back together.

I could not believe how much smoother it is now.


Mounted the Leupold 2.5 fixed scope. Not sighted in yet. Moved to medium height rings to clear the XS backup sights and get the scope a little closer to me.


Rear stock is fitting much closer. The stocks still are not perfect, but they are close enough for me.

I was looking for a buckle for the sling, and I could not find one I liked. So, I made one out of some 3/15th rod.


It was bitter cold in my garage (my quench water was frozen solid and forgot to buy more K1 for the garage heater), so instead of setting up my welder, I just grabbed some brazing rod...

Back inside I cleaned it up a little with my Dremmel, blued it... and then did not take a pic of the finished product... D'OH!
It looks a little crude, but I really like it and it will look good on the sling.

The rifle is finally back in a shootable condition!
Zach
 

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I thought about using the same rail and scope. Does the optic feel like its excessively high? How do you like the cheek weld? Can you post up some pics with the gun shouldered?

Thanks
 
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