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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I apologize if I haven't gotten approval for this post (I read the approval sticky, but I couldn't figure out how to get approval). So here's my question: I have a 1893 marlin in 32 special caliber. The trigger screw is REALLY frozen. I've tried tapping on it under tension with no luck. I've soaked it in Kroil for several days. My feeling is that it was torqued in way too tight however long ago. I definitely don't want to strip the head or break the bolt. Is there a manual impact screwdriver manufactured that you can strike that will perhaps loosen this sucker? Any other suggestions are welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I'm thinking I should clarify. I'm thinking I need an impact screwdriver that I can strike that will put reverse torque on a screw while it is being struck. I'm not wanting to invest a lot of money here - just wanting to know if there is a relatively inexpensive tool that folks have found effective.
 

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You should probably be able to find an inexpensive impact driver at Harbor Freight, however before doing that I would apply localized heat, soldering iron, air plastic welder, micro torch, to the area to see if I can get it to expand and contract breaking the bond. While it is still hot maybe reapplication of Kroil will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
localized heat like a blow dryer?
 

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Soldering iron is best with the pencil tip .. blow dryer not hot enough
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Success! I put a blow dryer on each side of the screw for about 30 seconds each and then popped it a couple of times with a small hammer and it came right out! Thanks for the advice, Tom! I've spent about two days on this screw trying different strategies and all it took was a little heat. I had just about decided to leave it in and abbreviate the dis-assembly and cleaning. It was killing me to give up on it.
 

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Gunjunkie said:
Soldering iron is best with the pencil tip .. blow dryer not hot enough
+1 on that or an art design wood burner.
 

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Glad you got it, FYI, I have a plastic welder that I bought at Harbor Freight for about $90. It has adjustable air tempature up to 900 degrees and blows out a 1/4" stream of air. It has paid for itself many times over repairing plastic on ATV/UTV fenders and floors, kydex holster fabrication, and many other plastic parts that would normally just be replaced. Use the same welding technique you use with a gas welder.
 

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Tom in Arizona said:
Glad you got it, FYI, I have a plastic welder that I bought at Harbor Freight for about $90. It has adjustable air tempature up to 900 degrees and blows out a 1/4" stream of air. It has paid for itself many times over repairing plastic on ATV/UTV fenders and floors, kydex holster fabrication, and many other plastic parts that would normally just be replaced. Use the same welding technique you use with a gas welder.
Thats cool, well hot. ;D ;D ;D
 

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Many times you are dealing with red locktite someone 'added' to the threads. Heat is the option. Great idea on the hair dryer or wood burner. Have used paint heat guns on some stubborn 870 magazine nuts. The wood burner is a great option for direct heat.
 

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Glad you already removed it, but for the future try TIGHTENING IT slightly first and then loosening it. I have personally had this work several times. Heat and impact screw driver are the best ideas so far. Although i do have kroil any time i've use a penetrating oil be it kroil/PB blaster/Oil of wintergreen(check it out) the threads of the bolt are DRY rust. Its as if everyone speaks of these penetrating oils working, yet they never do. The only thing i find to work reliably its application of heat/impact.
 
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