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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up a older unfired TC hawken .50 at a show and was hoping for some advice on propellant. I plan on shooting a patched ball.
Some guys I know use ff . I know a few other shooters that use fff and some that swear by 777.
Please give me some advice as I'm new to this . I've loaded BP cartridge for some years but the ml is new to me ... I know there's lots of experience here.
Thanks.
 

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You can use loose 777 but back off about 10% and as for pellets they are made for inline shooting irons
And JohnD13s BP load is a good one somewhere between 80-90 go is good shooting loads and easier on shoulder than 100-120gr
 

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I have been using Blackhorn 209 in my 50 cal inline and in my opinion it is the cats meow. Clean up is a snap with Hoppes and a couple of passes with the patch. Velocity is great with the Blackhorn. It is a little more expensive than the others.
 

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Inlines, pellets okay.

Hawkens is a sidelock, no pellets. Loose powder is the way to go.

.40 caliber and less, FFFG, Greater than 40 caliber, FFG.

Remember, black powder is corrosive, if you don't clean it immediately after shooting it will start eating your bore. I'd try T7 and see if it works. It is noncorrosive, water clean up. I believe T7 is designed to be the same as FFG powder. It should work.

V
 

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Welcome to the sport of muzzle loading Hobby shooter. TC is a great ML to start with. You can't use pellets because of the breech on that Hawken. It has a chamber smaller than the bore so the pellet will not be anywhere near the flash from the cap. This chamber is difficult to clean as your regular Jags will not go down it either. A .30 cal bore brush wrapped with patches will usually get to the bottom of it. Oil can accumulate in it and give you fits getting the first round to go off.
I recommend a target load of 50 to 65 grains of 3Fg pushing a .490 roundball patched with .018 100% cotton ticking. You can lube with spit or any of the commercial patch lubes. Or make your own with a mix of 3 parts of Murphys Oil soap and 7 parts water. This will work for cleaning too. You will need a short starter to get this loaded. A nice 5/16 diameter stainless range rod with a muzzle guide will make trips to the range much more fun. Get a cleaning jag, ball puller and a patch retriever ( corkscrew with threads to fit rod). Also in my years running the line at our monthly shoots I had had to get a lot of TC ramrod tips out of barrels that pulled off. They need cross pinned before serious use.
A short list of essential items;
Short starter
Nipple wrench
Adjustable powder measure
Cleaning patches ( go to a garage sale and pick up an old flannel nightgown and cut your own)
Screw driver
A mustard squeeze bottle, cleaned out makes a great cleaner/lube container.
A small tackle/tool box to haul all this in.
Remember an old time ML shooters advice
"Shooter if for better scores you thirst
For God sake load that powder first"


Enjoy and do not be afraid to ask questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the tips... I already picked up a short starter and ramrod acessories. My ml has what looks like a fiberglass rod. Is this the rod that needs to be cross pinned?
Also what type of powder measure do you recommend ? I've looked at several different ones and wondered what shooters like. I looked at a brass powder flask with a valve that had several different powder measure tubes you can install to throw different charges. It looked convenient but wasn't sure ..
 

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Measures: Get any of the several volumetric measures: THIS one looks quite flexible.
I would NOT pour directly from one of the powder flask/spouts -- even if the valve supposedly closes.

BP is not corrosive. But the combustion product salts attach moisture from the air.
So just wash it out/off--warm soapy water--after each firing session and PROTECT THE BORE w/ BREAKFREE or the like.
(Simply dry patch the barrel before shooting again and all will be fine)
 

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Welcome to the sport of muzzle loading Hobby shooter. TC is a great ML to start with. You can't use pellets because of the breech on that Hawken. It has a chamber smaller than the bore so the pellet will not be anywhere near the flash from the cap. This chamber is difficult to clean as your regular Jags will not go down it either. A .30 cal bore brush wrapped with patches will usually get to the bottom of it. Oil can accumulate in it and give you fits getting the first round to go off.
I recommend a target load of 50 to 65 grains of 3Fg pushing a .490 roundball patched with .018 100% cotton ticking. You can lube with spit or any of the commercial patch lubes. Or make your own with a mix of 3 parts of Murphys Oil soap and 7 parts water. This will work for cleaning too. You will need a short starter to get this loaded. A nice 5/16 diameter stainless range rod with a muzzle guide will make trips to the range much more fun. Get a cleaning jag, ball puller and a patch retriever ( corkscrew with threads to fit rod). Also in my years running the line at our monthly shoots I had had to get a lot of TC ramrod tips out of barrels that pulled off. They need cross pinned before serious use.
A short list of essential items;
Short starter
Nipple wrench
Adjustable powder measure
Cleaning patches ( go to a garage sale and pick up an old flannel nightgown and cut your own)
Screw driver
A mustard squeeze bottle, cleaned out makes a great cleaner/lube container.
A small tackle/tool box to haul all this in.
Remember an old time ML shooters advice
"Shooter if for better scores you thirst
For God sake load that powder first"


Enjoy and do not be afraid to ask questions.
I use the brush and patch for T/C powder wells. also I have the T/C powder well scrapers too.
 

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Black powder substitutes are more difficult to ignite than is black powder. That is why the substitutes need a percussion cap. They will not reliably ignite with a spark from a flint, if at all. As stated above, pellets are intended for in-line rlfles and need a shotgun primer to reliably ignite them.

All things being equal, you will not have an ignition problem with black powder, FFg or FFFg. Remember that the smaller the granules, the faster the burn rate. If you switch from FFg to FFFg, you should decrease your charge and work back up to the optimum. FFFFg is used only for priming a flintlock.

If you are shooting a charcoal burner, keep it clean. The sulfur and potassium chloride residues are hygroscopic (attract water) and rust in a very short time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·



Measures: Get any of the several volumetric measures: THIS one looks quite flexible.
I would NOT pour directly from one of the powder flask/spouts -- even if the valve supposedly closes.

BP is not corrosive. But the combustion product salts attach moisture from the air.
So just wash it out/off--warm soapy water--after each firing session and PROTECT THE BORE w/ BREAKFREE or the like.
(Simply dry patch the barrel before shooting again and all will be fine)
Thanks for the advice on the flask valve .... I should have thought about that. I've been using my rcbs powder thrower for years and still check every couple charges on my scale...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I can't find goex locally. I'd have to drive 5 hours to get it. my small local gun shops say they dont move enough to pay hazmat fees.
I'll either have to wait for a bit or try triple 7.... lots of that around.
 

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Here are a couple of items that I have found to be handy:
Tool Cylinder

With the top one I can turn a powder container into a flask/horn when shooting at a bench rest.
You could do the same with the newer plastic cans.
The adjustable powder measure is typical of what a lot of guys use, same with the capper.


I mostly shoot flintlocks & caplocks.
I do have an old Knight inline with a nipple for a standard #11 percussion cap. It will NOT ignite pyrodex pellets unless I duplex load it with 4 or 5 grains of black powder first. That one doesn't see much range time.
..
 

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I can't find goex locally. I'd have to drive 5 hours to get it. my small local gun shops say they dont move enough to pay hazmat fees.
I'll either have to wait for a bit or try triple 7.... lots of that around.
It is not Hazmet that keeps stores from carrying Black Powder it is the explosive dealers license they have to have. Cost of the license makes it difficult to make a profit.
I use a measure like twodot. Easy to use. For hunting I use a non adjustable one.
Direct pour from a flask is not recommended.
Where are you located? Maybe someone near you knows a local source.
I have no experience with T7 or any of the other subs. I did sample some Pyrodex when it first came out but it burnt dirtier than the black powder I was using.
Here is a listing of NMLRA affilitated clubs. Contact them for powder sources. Programs ? NMLRA
 
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