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I am cleaning up an early 94 for my stepson. The bolt was siezed up so i soaked it in PB Blaster and when i disassembled it, I noticed the firing pin was broken. I logged onto Numrich and looked at the schematic and see there is a “firing pin spring”. Where exactly does this go? I can see no spring on the bolt except the extractor, which obviously has a spring.

Part #17 on this schematic



https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/marlinglenfield/1894-series/1894-early-model
The firing pin in the early rifles models is in two pieces, a front and a rear one. Paulo is correct when he surmises that when the front and back pins are not aligned the rifle is unable to fire. The rear part of the firing pin is held down by the spring you see in the schematic. The 'L' shaped piece on the spring fits into a slot cut at the rear end of the front firing pin. The end of the spring bears down on the shaft of the rear firing pin. When the lever is closed the locking bolt pushes upwards on the rear firing pin thereby compressing the spring and because the firing pins are now aligned the mechanism is in battery and ready to fire. It is this safety mechanism that in part contributes to the name "Marlin Safety". The spring will break on occasion or gets lost in disassembly but is easy to make and replace if one can't be found on the internet.
 

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Looks that way. Thanks!!

Ok. FYI, I figured out where the firing pin spring goes. It clips in this tiny groove and rides the front firing pin, while putting downward pressure on the rear firing pin. I will (hopefully) shoot it tomorrow. If bullets dont tumble, i will order firing pin spring and assemble it correctly. May even order a new ejector while I’m at it.



This is the rifle in question. It was a real basket case before. So much better now. Just hope it shoots with its jagged rifling.

You should determine the groove diameter of your barrel by slugging the bore with some soft lead. Then choose, or better, cast a bullet at least one thousandths of an inch greater than the slugged groove diameter. Then your bullets won't tumble and your rifle won't lead up and this is because your slightly overbore bullet will not allow hot blow by gases to get past the bullet. Unless you follow these principles accuracy will be but a dream. Of course you could load and shoot jacketed bullets, and many do, but the correct principle for these vintage rifles with soft steel barrels is a cast bullet of the correct diameter. Good luck.
 

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I understand that, and when dealing with cast that is what I do (bullet oversized for the bore).

However, in looking at the rifling, I can see it is in poor shape. Am I incorrect in assuming this jagged rifling will sort of “tear” at the bullet as it travels the length of the barrel? That it could put uneven pressure on the bullet as it exits the muzzle and cause it to tumble? Or am I overthinking this? I have a friend that has 20-30 rifles of this vintage and anytime he gets one with poor rifling like this, he has found that jacketed performs better than any cast he tries.

You'd be amazed, sometimes, that with a bore like a sewer pipe how well a rifle will shoot. That deep cut Ballard rifling that Marlin put in their barrels will handle almost anything. Try it out.
 
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